Ronnie

As I said in your original post about oil pan leaking: I wrote: <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I changed mine not long ago and it was really easy. Unlike a lot of other cars, the Reatta Oil pan will come off without much problem. Disconnect the oil level sensor connector, remove the flywheel dust cover, starter and the bolts and it will come right off with a little sliding around to clear the pickup screen. I have the small reduction starter on my engine and I didn't have to remove it but if you have the standard, large starter I believe it will have to come off. </div></div>

I apologize if I sounded rude. I didn't mean to. I just wanted to point out to the new owner that simply adding front discs in place of the drums without adding the matching master cylinder and booster could result in poor stopping performance and could be dangerous in certain situations.

Nic wrote: <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Only issue that I am REALLY concerned with is the brakes. <span style="font-weight: bold">Mechanical brakes</span> that I had a fairly hard time stopping with when I drove it to the shop. The friend/fellow that did the pre purchase inspection for the family stated that the front drum brakes had been replaced with discs and there was a adjustment valve by the master cylinder that could compensate for the lack of initial braking efficiency .... </div></div> MauiWowee, What part of Nics statement above led you to believe the brakes had been upgraded properly? There is no mention of power assist. The '70 Chevelle you refer to would have vacuum assisted power brakes. Nic stated the brakes were "mechanical" so I assume they had no vacuum booster to make the disc brakes work properly. Therefore, the brakes would not have been upgraded properly. I stand by what I said previously that changing to disc brakes with NO power assist (vacuum booster) is dangerous.

I would not want to drive a car that had the drum brakes replaced with discs if there is no power assist booster and matching master cylinder installed at the same time. Modern disc brakes (1970 and up) were not designed to have proper stopping power without a vacuum booster. Using a master cylinder designed for drum brakes with disc brakes is a definite mismatch in piston sizes (fluid displacement) between the master cylinder and calipers. I would consider the car dangerous without a vacuum booster and proper master cylinder for a disc brake car.

That is a beautiful car. White blends good with the snow too.

Here in Tennessee we don't get much snow, but when we do, TDOT is out in full force to help us Reatta owners out. We love those <span style="font-weight: bold">Big Orange</span> trucks. GO VOLS!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DAVES89</div><div class="ubbcode-body">We got between 6"-8" with a forcast for about that much more on Sun. Coupled with the fact that between these 2 storms we will have sub zero weather. This sure is getting old. </div></div> Hey Dave, Why not get out and have some fun. Reattas are great in the snow being front wheel drive. No need to sit at home worrying about the weather. Get out and do something about it.

I like 88REATTA. But I think all of them are a waste of money.

I used a spray bottle and sprayed it right through the screen. It didn't hurt anything. I have also used the vacuum line to suck it in. I can't say Seafoam made any difference in the way my engine ran. I didn't have any problems to start with. Maybe my intake system was not dirty. I just did it as preventive maintenance.

Where is global warming when you really need it? I feel sorry for you guys up North. I know it must be rough. As a rule we have very mild Winters in Tennessee. So far no snow or freezing rain. High today 59 degrees and sunny skies.

I have done some of the things in your list without two much trouble. The hardest thing I have done so far on my Reatta is replacing the transmission dip stick tube seal. It has only one bolt holding it but it is almost impossible to get to. You can't see it and there is only room for one hand. Everything around it is sharp as a razor. My arm was cut to pieces before the job was done.

My wife and I drove to Nashville last weekend. I reset the average mileage in the computer before leaving as you did. Filled the car with mid-grade Shell fuel and hit the Interstate. Keep in mind we were driving in the hills of East Tennessee which might different from your area. It is about 140 miles of Interstate driving each way at about 75 miles per hour. Once we got there we drove slowly around town for about 30 minutes of start and stop driving. Our total miles driven was 290.7. When we got home the CRT screen was showing 23.9 as the average mpg. My car is an 88 model. It has about 4000 miles on it since I tuned it up. New plugs and wires, all the filters and a good cleaning with Seafoam.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tammy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can someone please post where I can buy a ticket. I'm not finding any information~Thanks Tammy </div></div> Click the Red car in the Sponsors column on the left that says Raffle. It is a link to a page with a form at the bottom of the page. You can print and mail in the form with your payment.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: attaer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Battery draining by itself. Interior lights turning on by themselves. Replaced the Body Module. Still drains. Mechanic suggests it may be the PROM's. Will any year Reatta PROM's work in an '89?? or is each proprietary to the year of the car. Is there an after market source for PROM's??? Any help will be greatly appreciated. </div></div> Before buying anything why not find what is draining the battery? Disconnect the battery cable. Connect one lead of a voltmeter to the battery cable and the other lead to the battery terminal. (I like an analog voltmeter set to the 12 volt DC range.) Disconnect the ECM and BCM to eliminate them from drawing current. They will normally have a small current draw. Then start removing fuses, unplugging connectors, operating door switches etc. and disconnecting things until the voltage reading on the meter goes to zero. Start reconnecting things and when the voltmeter starts to read a voltage again you have found the source of what is draining your battery.

I believe there is one currently one ebay. Click here

Have you checked to see if there is supposed to be a check valve somewhere in the system to prevent the vacuum from getting away so fast?

Steak, I don't want to hijack this thread but will you give us an update on your progress in the thread you started earlier.

John, Keep your chin up. I's not as bad as it seems. First, you have a mechanic that either wants to take advantage of you or just has no idea what is involved in the work to be done. Fluids drained and flushed $750??? That is ridiculous. About a three hour job and about $75 in supplies. Changing the oil pan gasket is a 2 hour job at the most and the gasket should cost less than $20. You can do the job if you have any experience at all. $260 is way out of line. Clean intake $690? Run as fast as you can from this guy. Probably a $7 can of Seafoam cleaner will take car of it. Search for posts here on Seafoam. Many of the other parts you need probably are available from Jim Finn. They will be used parts but they will be in good usable condition. Don't throw in the towel yet. Step back, take a deep breath, and don't panic. You will find someone near you that understands Reattas and will treat you honestly on doing the repairs. I bet someone on this forum near you will be willing to help.

AutoPartsGiant.com offers a RAYBESTOS rebuilt unit for $965 with free shipping. Link is here. Might be better than Prior unit?

I'm not a Mustang expert but if the book has no listing for a 289 in 66 you need another book. The engines in 66 were an Inline 6 cylinder and the 289 v8. There should have been two hardtops. The standard coupe and a fastback, sometimes called a 2+2.

Is the unit listed for the Reatta at Advance Auto Parts the complete unit? It has a lifetime warranty and is priced cheaper at $468.99. Might be worth checking out. From thier website: Cardone ABS Pump/Motor: Remanufactured Part Number: 124407 Features: * Quality Testing - Computer Tested for Internal and External Leakage and Performance * Quality Standards - Remanufactured to ISO 9002 and QS9000 Standards. * Quality Assurance - Unit is Remanufactured in a Class 100,000 Clean Room to Prevent Contamination That Causes Failure.

I don't understand why. The PM is there and was sent: Sat Feb 09 2008 10:43 AM. In the bottom left corner it states: Unread By: none. Two emails I sent at the email in his profile were rejected. I sent them to: mb05 @ gnofn.org. The website gnofn.org is just a blank page. Did you have another email address? Very disappointing as I lost a cap yesterday in downtown Nashville and about a dozen cars hit it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The parts book show a 35 tooth and a 37 tooth gear. I suspect you don't want to change this too much as this also screws with shift points etc since the change is on the front of the transmission. Next is the final drive pinion. The parts book list 4 different ratio differentials, 2.84, 2.97, 3.06, and 3.33 </div></div> I have an 88 model. Was there a standard ratio for that model year? How can we tell what sprocket tooth count and final drive ratio we have? Maybe a tag on the transmission or a code somewhere?

Has anyone had a reply to their PM or email from Mike?

Yes, After you turn the key off and pump the brake pedal until it is hard.