Ronnie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wwebb</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That raises an interesting question, to be considered a two seater, does the car have to have two individual seats like the Reatta? </div></div> I wouldn't think so. You would be excluding the 55 Thunderbird as a two seater. It had a bench seat.

I like round ones better but neither one would look good on a Reatta to me. It would be like putting the '56 Chevy hood ornament on a Z-28 Camaro. Although beautiful and nostalgic, it would be out of place.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MauiWowee</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, I had to dig DEEP for that pic. But now we know there may be additional sources for these wheels, as well as perhaps the illusive color code. </div></div>Can't you take a good wheel with the correct color to your local Dupont automotive paint dealer and have him scan the wheel for the correct color. They now have a scanner that is a hand held portable device that scans the color and then downloads the data into the paint mixer computer. They get the color matched so close that I can't tell any difference. OR is getting the correct paint code necessacary in keeping the car absolutely stock?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well long story short we recovered the car (no damage) other than its security has been compromised, so we are looking to change out both the door locks, </div></div> I wouldn't change the locks, I would prosecute the @$$hole who stole the car and make him return any keys he may have. That way you protect yourself and maybe his next victim at the same time. At least he would think twice before he steals another car. Once a thief gets away with something like that it only tempts him to do it again.

Let me repeat what Barney said. Click on the "Switch to full reply screen" Click on "File Manager" (At the bottom of the editor not the menu button) <span style="text-decoration: underline">A new window will pop up</span> See Photo below. Click on the "Browse" Find the picture you want to post and click on the "add file" button. Then click on the "done adding files" button That will bring you back to the main screen. Click on "Submit" NOTE: You will not see your photo by clicking on "Preview Post" You will see it after you click on "Submit"

Great looking car! I like it. What are the wheels you have on it?

Maybe someone will make one available. I don't believe the parts will be super expensive if they can be found. I have also found a large hydraulic supply company that said they are willing to try matching the parts. They said they do stock metric size seals, and cups for the pistons. Barney: Thanks for supplying the photo. It helped me see how the Teves works in general. Sure would be nice to have one of those Teves training manuals. Are more available? Could yours be easily copied?

If anyone has an old Teves unit that you are willing to donate, I would like to have it to take apart to see if I could learn how to rebuild it. I have a friend who owns an auto parts store. He said he is willing to try to match up the seals needed to rebuild the master cylinder but he needs me to take one apart to see what is needed. If I could learn how to rebuild the master cylinder, I believe I could save us all some money by doing it at a lower cost.

F14, do you have any photos of the Euro knob?

Thanks Kenny, The part I was wondering about it's location is labeled (2). It usually sits beside the master cylinder.

Where is the ABS valve block located? It is normally near the master cylinder. I didn't see it in the photos.

Does your 91 have ABS?

Jim and Richard: Are parts available so we can rebuild our own master cylinder units? If someone else can rebuild them, why can't we do it ourselves?

In cold weather the AC should come on under certain conditions in defrost mode to dehumidify the air in order to clear the windshield faster.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can pump the brakes and get good stopping power, but the pedal goes to the floor every first pump. </div></div> What you describe is the symptoms of any GM master cylinder with defective internal cup seals. The Teves system on the Reatta basically operates like any other GM brake system with the exception of being power assisted by a pump instead of a vacuum booster. <span style="font-weight: bold">Without</span> the system having been pressurized by the pump (by turning the key on) you should still have some brakes on the first pump if the system is in good condition and has been properly bled. <span style="font-weight: bold">A test:</span> I have not driven my Reatta for three days. I just went out to the garage and (without turning the key) pressed the brake pedal down. I had 95% full pedal on the first pump. I had a full pedal on second pump. The test above tells me that pumps, relays, switches or computers are not your problem. It appears you have a mechanical problem like internal seals, check valves or something of that nature. Hope this helps you.

Where it says drive is a small plate that can easily be changed.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: campolojr</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Never mind I answered it myslef I think. No, because its a 4L60e not 4T60e but idk maybe there is one out there. If so please let me know I have a 88 reatta which I think has the 4t60 I am not sure it is quit confusing. </div></div> According to gmturners.com: The 440-T4 was introduced around the mid 80's and had many changes and upgrades during its lifetime. In the early 90's, its name changed to 4T60 but its use was discontinued before the 1993 model year. Basically, the 4T60 contains all of the updates, upgrades, and fixes for problems that plagued the early 440-T4's.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I wasted a day trying to get a plate that I didn't need! </div></div> If you pass through Tennessee without a plate you will more than likely be greeted by the Tennessee Highway Patrol. He might let you go but you will have a lot of explaining to do and your paper work had better be in order. Having insurance in Tennessee does not meet the requirements of registration and having a license plate displayed on the rear of the car.

Are you wanting to install a gauge or a random check? Use an infrared gun and point it at the oil pan for a random check. For a permanent gauge you would probably need to install a sensor in the oil pan or go with an inline filter like the Perma-Cool that has a provision for a gauge.

I think nic_walker's tag line sums up how I feel about the Reatta. I like to tweak and slightly modify to improve on what came from the factory but for real <span style="text-decoration: underline">high</span> performance I would pick another car. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">nic_walker's tag line: "Mark your place among those who want to reward themselves with a remarkable two-seater motorcar of distinction, sensuousness and impeccable road manners - handcrafted in limited numbers, with that most precious commodity: Time."* </div></div>

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The warning comes on as soon as I put the car in drive. </div></div> Knowing this, I would start by troubleshooting code B660 in the FSM page 8D2-70. Could be the transmission park/neutral switch at fault. Will the car start in drive? If you have a 91 model there may be other switches that could cause it also.

Sounds like the low oil level sensor in the oil pan is failing or there is a bad/dirty connection to it. Careful disconnecting the sensor. The connector is easy to break.

Turn in until moderate resistance is felt. Then out until it gets hard to turn again. Spray with penetrating oil. Let sit 15 minutes. Repeat from the beginning turning in and out until it loosens up. You don't need to spray every time. IF you keep trying to twist it out by just unscrewing it with more and more pressure, it could seize up and you will have real problems.

If you are talking about the following instructions, I wouldn't skip anything. Every step is important to get a thorough cleaning of the brake fluid without getting air in the system. Once air is allowed to get into the system it can take considerable time to get it out. Better to do the job right the first time. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">First turn the key off, pump the brake pedal 25-40 times to depressurize the system. Now you must address the Reservoir. You could syringe out the old fluid or remove a return line and drain or run all through a rear bleeder. If you attempt to run all in the Reservoir, Accumulator and lines through a rear bleeder you will be mixing new and old fluid as you attempt to keep the Reservoir filled to the seam. Reportedly a plastic piece/elbow breaks very easily when disconnecting a line from the Reservoir. we prefer a syringe. Empty reservoir, then fill. Click here for photo of brake warning and click here for photo of brake fill line. However done, from then on you must keep the reservoir full, at least to the seam, filling to the top is O.K. with the cap removed and plans to flush further. Any old fluid left in the Reservoir will be removed through the right rear bleeder. Turn the key on, wait for system to pressurize and reservoir level to drop ( hope by now you know why it drops about � inch). Top off reservoir. Attach wrench, hose and container at the right rear bleeder. Have you assistant gently depress the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder, keep reservoir full and bleed until fluid runs clear. Repeat at the left rear bleeder. At this time you must turn the Key Off and pump the pedal 25/40 times to relieve all system pressure. Leave the Key OFF. The fluid in the Reservoir should have been clear, new before depressurizing. You might now check to see it is still clear/new. Bleed the fronts, starting with the RF, as with any manual procedure (Depress pedal, open bleeder, close bleeder, release pedal, all done slowly with a pause between strokes). This takes a lot of pumping and time. When all is clear, system still depressurized, check for correct Reservoir level. Clean up the mess. </div></div>

I don't think the IAC is his problem with not "running" as JownW first reported. I posted the IAC photo as reference for anyone not familiar with it. Running above idle is not controlled by the IAC and holding your foot on the throttle should keep the car running even when the IAC is bad. I agree on the problem being fuel or spark related.