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Richard S

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About Richard S

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  1. Padgett, I thought the glove boxes were different. Didn't the earlier ones lock from somewhere else? I recall trying to get the glove box for my 90 from an 89, but they don't have the lock in the front.
  2. Minor correction. The only Allante with the northstar was 93. GM also managed to put an end to the nightmarish Bosch braking system and some electrical gremlins leftover from earlier years. I believe the major reason the Allante was so spirited was the tuned port injection added to all the motors starting with the little 4.1 in 87. As I recall, they did not got to the coil pack ignition until the northstar changeover in 93. The car, particularly top down, is gorgeous. Were it not for some similarity to some initial other popup lighted cars, the Reatta would turn as many heads. I think fr
  3. I just love the way the Reatta looks from most perspectives. It has a very aggressive stance. My only beef is the very large wheel wells with the smallish narrow tires don't seem to do that stance justice. Obviously, this is a matter of taste, and since wheels are something we can play with and return to stock whenever that seems warranted, I chose to. Here is the car [needing a paint job rather badly] with Mustang 17s, running 255/50/17s in the rear and 235/50/17s up front. BTW, the absolute maximum you can run up front is 245/50/17, but that will leave a very slight scuff on the in
  4. Folks, lets keep this in perspective. We all look at threads with varying frequency. If Jon did not want to share his ideas and innovations, he would not post at all, just lurk. On the contrary, he is normally one of the first to pipe up when he discovers something or has an insight. If you don't see an answer to your question, just send him a PM as I did. He quickly and kindly let me know that the driving lights he installed came out of a Camaro, and were quite simple to mount [of course that may be if you have his skills, which are considerable]. Interestingly, there are several people on
  5. Wayne, first make sure you have all the parts you may need, such as bushings and gaitors if required. Second, a very good set of vise grips to clamp onto the old chrome tube when turning the nut. I doubt that you will loosen the top strut mount nut any other way. If you are contemplating any brake or rear seal work, this is the time. Check the suspension bushings and rear sway bar rubber as well. Since there is not spring to deal with, it is far easier than the front.
  6. Have we isolated this as a fuel or electrical issue. I would try a pressure tester on the fuel rail [they are pretty cheap at Harbor Freight] and if that checks out, some starter fluid into the intake. If it fires right up, then you know it is fuel. If it makes no difference, then you might be dealing with a weak coil pack or failing module.
  7. Jon, just wanted to compliment you. I have yet to see a mod you have made that did not turn out to be a enviable first rate job. You are quite a craftsman. I seoond: What did those come out of?
  8. If you want to try a fix on the cheap, I have so far had very good luck on the a/c of my 90 with a leak sealer I got on ebay.
  9. Not to sidetrack what has become a very interesting discussion, for me at least, of lubrication principles, I just wanted to report that the leak returned after the car was sitting for about 30 minutes following an 8 mile drive home. Car was facing downhill and it looked like about 1/8 cup of oil. I am going to have to get under the car this weekend and really feel around for the origin of this leak. I am wondering about the blacklight method of leak detection. Does anyone know what is involved? Is it a worthwhile method or old technology? If it does turn out to be the rear seal, I underst
  10. Surely there is a lamp out there in the boneyard of the proper size with a glass lens. I was thinking of trying to wire in/adapt the mini headlamps from the 93-95 Cutlass Supremes
  11. BTW, car was parked today facing uphill. No oil stain underneath. Parked facing downhill tonight. News at 7 [am.]
  12. I used to go out to the desert pretty often. With temps over 100 and the a/c blasting, engine temps were pretty high. Hence the 20/50. Since I bought in case lots when it was on sale, and that weight cost no more than any other, I've just stuck with it for no apparent reason. Now is the 3.4 you refer to the very twin cam I have in my 93 Cutlass Supreme convert? Does it explain why that engine had so few applications and came and went so quickly?
  13. Yes it can. It was 82 near the coast here in SD today; much hotter inland. I have always run 20/50 in all my cars here without incident. But you could be right. Before I change weights, I probably should take it to a pro with a lift and see what he says.
  14. I definately qualify as a forgetful mechanic, but fortunately I did not rebuild the engine.
  15. Well, I spoke too soon; leak's back. It is definately engine oil. Bobby, I tend to keep things pretty clean, particularly the top. I am confident it is not coming from the top end, valve covers and the like. The starter fluid spray test proved negative, and in cany case, there is no evidence the leak is coming from the intake plenum. I am now drifting back to the horrific idea that it might be a coincidental failure of the rear seal. I doubt that running Valvolene 20/50 would have blown the seal. I just can't think of that many places on the left side of the car that oil could leak from
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