Ronnie

Daniel, It seems you may be overlooking the basics of a brake system. There are two things that normally will be the cause of a spongy pedal. 1. Air in the system. Since this is a custom installation you may have a place in a line where air is trapped like a hose or steel line that turns up for a few inches and the goes down again. Brake lines must always keep fluid flowing downwards to prevent air being trapped. You cannot go down, then up and then back down. Air will be trapped at the top. You also could have air trapped in the ABS valves that needs to be purged. 2. Something mechanically is flexing. Could be a hose swelling or a metal part that is supposed to be rigidly held in place is moving. If for some reason the caliper is not able to slide as it normally does while clamping the rotor, the piston will push back on the mounting bracket and cause it to flex. I would put my money on air being trapped in the system some where.

WOW! He's even listed in the Wikipedia. Take a look. I have often been included in that elite group myself. It has been said that I am a perfectionist in an imperfect world.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Points to notice to increase mpgs. Narrow high pressure tires with smooth tread. Grill blocks to reduce air drag. Rim air blocks to reduce air drag. Small wheel openings.</div></div> Nash was really way ahead of it's time.

I like those wheels. What year and model Pontiac did they come off of?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm convinced the problems I'm having with the hydraulic system in my Teves MII system are at least in part due to my negligence in this area.</div></div> I'm sure it was negligence by the people who wrote the Field Service Manual when they failed to mention the bleeder valves in their instructions for changing brake linings. They say to push the piston back in and install the pads.

I never open the bleeders and I never add brake fluid as the brake pads wear so... There is not any extra fluid to suck out when you push the caliper back in while replacing the pads.

He was here this morning at about 7:12 am (http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/531994/Re_1989_Turbo_Reatta#Post531994) Seems odd that he would not post an answer to the questions raised here.

I tried that Nic. It just didn't work for me.

Hey guys. Is it possible waltmail doesn't know how to use private messages?

I use a product called "The Right Stuff" and it works great. It comes in a pressurized can like Cheese Wiz. Makes it easy to apply. Only drawback is the price. It is expensive. I used it on my transmission pan and it hasn't leaked a drop since. Before using it on the pan I tried three different gaskets and even bought a new pan and it still seeped.

I understand what you are saying but in this case since all the glass was broken I doubt it was just a thief who did it. It appears to be damaged by some cowardly person seeking revenge or just pure old vandalism that was done because some stupid S.O.B. gets a kick out of doing it. There really is not much way to prevent that type of senseless act. Watching where you park and keeping the car inside helps but it still can happen.

Could be a lifter sticking and not pumping up completely all the time. Good time to try some Sea Foam or similar additive.

I'm subscribed to this thread and it seems to be working perfectly.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Park it for a few days and all is well until it starts shutting down again and the condition worsens to where it will not restart.</div></div> When it will not restart, do you have fuel pressure? Do you have spark at the plugs? Do you have compression? Basic things you need to know in order to troubleshoot the problem.

Yes, it does make sense. I just wanted to be sure we weren't overlooking something that may have been simpler to implement. Like they say... There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary and those who don't.

Kevin, would you please take a look at the photo and comments in my previous post? It is from the FSM and is a diagram of the data lines between the cassette, radio, and the CRTC. The CRTC then sends data on to the BCM for processing. It appears from looking at the diagram there are resistors inside the cassette that play a part in telling the CRTC the state of the cassette player. It seems that it may be possible to simulate the resisters inside the cassette some way to 'fool' the CRTC and BCM. I'm probably wrong but I would like to hear your comments. Be sure to expand the photo to full size to see it in detail.

After looking over the relevant section of the FSM concerning the data line, it appears no coding is required to make changes that accomplish what this thread is talking about. The data that is transfered to the BCM appears to be in the form of resistance and/or voltage values. I am guessing that a cumulative voltage or resistance is used by the BCM to determine what components are present in the system. I don't have time to dig into the workings of the system. If someone here with some electronic (not necessarily programming) skills would look over the photo I have provided I'm sure they could come up with a solution to doing away permanently with the Cassette player.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KDirk </div><div class="ubbcode-body">The Select 60 wheels only came in white, other body colors did not have "matching" wheel paint. <span style="color: #FF0000">This is because select 60's were only offered with white paint jobs.</span></div></div> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barney Eaton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Barney Eaton Long Time Member Registered: Fri Nov 12 1999 Posts: 4691 Loc: Georgetown TX USA There is no visible difference between a 1988 standard coupe and the Select Sixty. Based on a couple of know 1988 Select Sixtys, we have determined that all 55 were made around vin number 901000 <span style="color: #FF0000">All that we have documented have been black with tan interior</span>, 16 way seat. No sunroof as they were not available on these early '88's. The only way to detect a 1988 Select Sixty is by the X22 code on the Service Parts label. X22 was apparantly an internal accounting code (or money bucket) that allowed these cars to be tracked. There was a special hood emblem for these cars but few actually had the emblem. At the time the cars were made, the emblems were not finished, so the cars were shipped with standard emblems and the special "Select Sixty Buick Dealers" hood emblem was shipped to the dealer when they became available. By the time the emblem arrived, many dealers had already sold the car and the emblem was tossed in a drawer.</div></div>

Check the seal between the reservoir and the master cylinder.

Go here: http://www.reatta.net/brakes/brakes_troubleshooting.html The test is half way down the page.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ronnie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If the light goes off something is giving the signal to the computer to disengage the cruise. It could be a defective or out of adjustment switch on the brake pedal.</div></div> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barney Eaton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The switch on the brake pedal can also be a problem. As cars get older.. things wear. The brake pivot and rubber bumper stops can change and the brake switch setting may be just on the edge of being set correctly. When you hit a bump or big dip, it is enough to move the pedal and disengage the cruise. </div></div> Thanks Barney for so eloquently repeating what I said in my last post.

Dave, does the cruise light stay on when the cruise stops working? If the light stays on it is probably a problem with the servo not getting enough vacuum. If the light goes off something is giving the signal to the computer to disengage the cruise. It could be a defective or out of adjustment switch on the brake pedal.

This link to Tommy's webpage seems to explain how to do it and has photos. Is that not what you are wanting?

From the forum FAQ: <span style="font-weight: bold">Subscribing to a Topic</span> Enter the Topic and Select "Add Topic to your Watched Topics" option from the "Topic Options" dropdown. Managing Watch Lists Select "My Watch Lists" from the "My Stuff" dropdown, from here you can select the type of List that you wish to edit and by clicking the "Edit Watched Topics" (or "Edit Watched Forums" or "Edit Watched Users") link you can remove them or toggle the "Email Notification" option. <span style="font-weight: bold">Toggling EMailed Watch Lists</span> See the above "Managing Watch Lists" directions. <span style="font-weight: bold">Toggling the Default "EMail Watchedlist" Options</span> Select "My Preferences" from the "My Stuff" dropdown. From here you can manage the "By default should anything added to your Watch Lists be emailed to you?" option. End FAQ Once the topic is added to your watch list a magnifying glass icon show up next to the topic in the list of forum topics. Click the magnifying glass icon and in the dropdown menu you see the option to have an email notification sent when a new post is added to the topic. Hope this helps!

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