Ronnie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Good job, Ronnie! Not only did you walk him through the circuit, you provided the electrical diagram! Excellent! - Dave Dare</div></div> Thanks Dave. I hope we eventually get his problem corrected.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nic walker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ronnie, Not trying to confuse, but I might have with my "ignition switch" post/reply above. When I was refering to the ignition switch I actually meant the ignition key switch or maybe better described as "lock" at the top of the steering column, and not the ignition switch at the bottom of the column. The lock has two very thin wires that run down the column to the "ignition switch". These wires run between the lock and the column on their way down the column and can fray from the movement of the key turning in the "lock" and short out. </div></div> Nic, I don't see the two small wires in the circuit that activates the starter. Could those two small wires are be used to power a bulb that illuminates the ignition lock mechanism at night to make it easy to insert the key? I have not looked into it.

A fusible link is a section of wire that is designed to burn out before the rest of the wire. About the same thing as a regular fuse except it is not expected to burn out unless something out of the ordinary happens and therefore is not designed to be easily changed. Fusible link "C" is in the red wire that goes to the ignition switch from the red box you refer to. You tested the red wire at the ignition switch and you determined it to have 12 volts. If fusible link C was bad you would not have 12 volts on the red wire of the ignition switch. One quick test for a fusible link is to try to bend it. It should be a little flexable. If it is stiff and hard feeling it could have a problem. Hang in there. I think we will get to the bottom of this problem.

If the alarm sounded on the car when you armed the system and the alarm stopped when you unlocked the door with the key, the Theft Deterrent System is working properly. That does not mean the Starter Interrupt Relay is working properly. I suspect that relay has failed. One more test to the ignition switch to verify it is in working order. Plug the connector onto the ignition switch. Have a friend turn the ignition key and hold it in the "Start" position. With the black lead of your voltmeter connected to ground take the other lead and carefully "back probe" (stick the tip of the lead against the back of terminal) of the ignition switch terminal in the connector that has the yellow wire coming out of it. (If you cannot get the tip of the lead into the hole where the terminal is you can stick a straight pin (or needle) into the yellow insulation of the wire until it makes contact with the copper wire inside. Then touch your voltmeter lead to that) DO NOT let the straight pin touch anything but the tip of the voltmeter lead!! If it comes in contact with ground or another wire it could cause damage. There should be 12 volts on the terminal with the yellow wire coming out of it. Did the voltmeter read 12 volts? I have attached a photo below that clearly shows the circuit we have been testing. The path the circuit takes is highlighted in yellow. As you can see, if the ignition switch passes the above test there is nothing left but the "Starter Interrupt Relay" to prevent the circuit from being completed and the starter from turning the engine. Obviously there is a Theft Deterrent System that is working on the car and connected to it is going to be a Starter Interrupt Relay, probably mounted nearby. Someway you are going to have to find that relay so we can test it. I have never had my dash apart so I can't help you find it other than showing you photos from the Field Service Manual. After you do the final test on the ignition switch let me know how it turned out.

I left out the critical step of unlocking the door from the inside with the manual lever before opening the door. Sorry. When you open the door the horn should start to blow and the headlights should flash. Does that happen? I would go ahead and test the ignition switch to find out if it tests properly.

I don't believe the battery cable is the problem because you said the starter would turn the engine when you jumped the terminal with the purple wire on the solenoid. The problem may end up being the Theft Deterrent System. I was trying to eliminate all the normal components that are in the starting circuit before trying to troubleshoot the Theft Deterrent System. The Ignition Switch is the last thing before the Theft Deterrent System. About the Theft Deterrent System. Do you know if it works correctly? To test it try this: Put the car in park and roll down a window. Turn the ignition to the lock position and remove the key. With the door open lock the doors with the electric lock switch on the door panel. (not the manual lock) and close the door. The security light on the dash should glow for about 6 seconds and then go out. Open a door from the inside through the window with the inside door handle. The alarm should sound. Did it? Now close the door and unlock it with the key ( not the remote.) The alarm should stop. Now try to start the car. Did it start?

Your battery is not fully charged. It should read 12 volts with your voltmeter. The CRT is in the center of the car above the console that looks like a small TV screen that allows you to operate the radio and AC controls. The IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) displays the speedometer and gas gauge. Which did you have out? I can't understand why you can't find the Starter Interrupt Relay. I thought all '89 models came with the Theft Deterrent System. The ignition switch is located on the lower part of the steering column on the top side. (see photo) Remove the connector. Connect the black lead of your voltmeter to a good metal ground on the car and the other lead to the terminal in the connector with the red wire going to it. Does the voltmeter read 12 volts? Be sure the transmission is in park and the Transaxle Position Switch is connected properly. Next run a jumper wire from the positive post on the battery and carefully make contact with the terminal with the yellow wire. DO NOT touch anything else with the jumper wire including any other terminals. Did the starter turn the engine? Let me know the results.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: D-a-n-i-e-l</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Check your trany fluid and shift linkage. Also run a diagnostic, it may have one or two bad shift silniod. </div></div> Daniel, I believe you are thinking about a 91 model transmission. I don't think the 90 model was computer controlled or used solenoids for shifting.

This might help.

I agree with Alex. I think the buyer probably has gotten cold feet and is using the mechanic a an excuse to back out of the deal. I doubt anything you can say will make a difference in getting him to complete the deal except maybe "I will come down on the price".

The Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) I refer to is the Panel that contains the speedometer, fuel gauge and all the other lights. It has a trim plate around it that must be removed and is held in place with a few screws. It just plugs into a connector in the rear of the panel. Behind the IPC is where the Field Service Manual says the Starter Interrupt Relay and Theft Deterrent Module are located. (see photo). You might be able to access it without removing the IPC. I don't know. A relay near Item # 1 in the photo is what you are looking for. If you can't get to it you could test the ignition switch next instead of the Starter Interrupt Relay.

To test terminlal "F" (yellow wire) you must have the key turned all the way to the "Start" position and held there while you test for 12 volts with a voltmeter. Do you have a voltmeter? Just turning the key to the "On" position will not be good enough. The key must be turned to "Start and held there while you check for 12 volts between terminal "F" and ground (negative battery post is best).

Yes, I did have the colors switched. I got in hurry. Sorry. I assume the yellow wire G did NOT have 12 volts when the key is turned to the "start" position while checking the Transaxle Position Switch connector. Were you able to check that? You said it was dead. Did you mean it did not have 12 volts? The next thing to test is the Starter Interrupt Relay. The relay is located behind the instrument panel, left of the steering column mounting bracket. The panel will need to be removed to get at it (See photo below). I have not removed the instrument panel so I hope Dave or someone who has will give you instructions on how to remove it. Once the panel is removed, find the starter interrupt relay and remove the connector. Terminals 1 and 3 should have yellow wires connected to them. (See photo below) Have a friend turn the ignition key to the "start" position and hold it there. Check terminal "3" of the connector for 12 volts with a voltmeter. Does it read 12 volts. If you have twelve volts on terminal "3", use a wire to jump between terminal "1" and "3" while the key is turned to the "start" position. (Be certain the car is in PARK and the Transaxle Position Switch" is connected.) Did the starter turn the engine?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: snowdrift</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ronnie, thanks for your help. I will await your next suggestion to troubleshoot this issue. Thank you! </div></div> When the ignition key is turned to the run position do the red and yellow brake warning lights come on? Does the ABS pump run and the lights go off after about a minute? If not fusible link "C" could be burned out or not making a good connection. It supplies power to the ignition switch. Assuming the fusible link "C" is good the next step should be to check the Tranaxle Position Switch. It is not easy to get to and may take a little time. (See photo 1 below.) Remove the connector from the Transaxle Position Switch. (See photo 2 below.) Be CERTAIN the car is in Park. Connect your jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to terminal "G" of the connector, NOT the switch) in the same manner you did before at the starter. Did the starter turn the engine? Next have a friend turn the key all the way to the "start" position and hold it there. Connect a voltmeter between terminal "F" of the connector and the negative post on the battery (or any other good ground). Did the voltmeter read 12 volts? Let me know the results of the tests.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: snowdrift</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thank you Ronnie!! I do appreciate your help very much!! If I understand correctly I take a long enough wire to reach from the positive terminal on the battery down to the solenoid and then briefly touch the terminal on the solenoid that has a screw to hold the wires in place. This terminal will have a purple wire attached to it. Is that correct? Would a coated speaker wire work? That way I would have control of the wire so it doesn't ground. Thanks! </div></div>You are correct in how you need to connect the jumper wire. Speaker wire is much too light for using as a jumper wire. You need at least a 12 gauge wire with good insulation. It appears from some of the posts that others seem to think they know more about how to do the test than I. I hope they can help you. Above all I hope you don't get in over your head and cause yourself more problems. If I were there I would troubleshoot the problem for you.

I have been looking at the wide variety of car covers on eBay trying to decide one that will work well at a low price. All I need is a cover to keep dust off my car, is easy to install and remove and fits well without damaging the car. It won't have to ever keep the car dry as my Reatta is always kept in the garage and is not driven on rainy days. It is mostly a weekend driver. Has anyone had experience with any of the cheaper covers and can you recommend a good eBay seller? Any help is appreciated.

I will try to help. The first thing you need to do is to determine if the problem is with the solenoid/starter assembly or if you have a starting circuit problem with the wiring, ignition switch or some safety feature like the park/neutral switch. To check the solenoid/starter you need to supply 12 volts to the terminal on the solenoid (mounted on the starter) that normally energizes the starter motor. I would connect a jumper wire to the positive battery post and carefully touch the other end to the screw terminal on the solenoid. You can jump from the large battery cable terminal on the solenoid to the small terminal and accomplish the same thing but if you short the large terminal to ground you can have a big light show that you don't want. Referring to the FSM the terminal the energizes the starter has a purple wire connected to it. At least on my '88 model. I would assume other models are the same. DO NOT turn the ignition on while performing this test! You don't want the engine to start now. ONLY TOUCH THE WIRE TO THE TERMINAL MOMENTARILY. BE PREPARED FOR THE STARTER TO ENGAGE AND THE ENGINE TO TURN. IF the starter engages and the engine turns the problem is not the solenoid or the starter. WARNING!!! WARNING!!!WARNING!!! This can be a dangerous procedure if not done properly. I don't know you level of expertise in working on your car. DO NOT short the large terminal with the battery cable connected to it to ground. The result could vary from a shower of sparks to the battery exploding and covering you and the car with battery acid. IF you don't feel you can do the test safely take it to a reliable mechanic. If you perform the test above report back here with the results and we will continue to troubleshoot your problem.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BMBLBE</div><div class="ubbcode-body">First I tried removing the fuse and then the battery. <span style="color: #FF0000">Disconnecting the battery did the trick.</span> </div></div>

Click here to read about the Life of the Buick V6. It will answer most of your questions.

Thanks Mc for letting us know about the sale. I appreciate it. It might be good jack system but I have always used heavy duty jack stands and they have never let me down... or is it they have never let the car down on me. I think I will stick with good heavy duty jack stands instead of some new gadget.

ballmon, I may be wrong but I don't think a bad ABS sensor will turn on the RED brake warning light. The RED light is an indication of low brake system pressure. If it is on you may have other problems that should be corrected before troubleshooting the ABS. Have you taken the brake test that can be found here ? Scroll down to the center of the page to find the brake test. Let us know the results...

Sorry, I may have asked the same question before. I always ask hoping to find someone near me who can do the reprogramming.

The rubber hoses normally have clamps on them. I have not actually looked at my Reatta but but most other cars have a short piece of rubber hose that connects two sections of steel line near the radiator. Is that what you are asking?

You need at least a short section of rubber line on the supply and return lines near the radiator to absorb vibration between the drivetrain and the radiator to prevent the steel lines from breaking.

Did you use GMTuners.com for the reprogramming?