Ronnie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TheChevyHDMan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah I see that, I think fortunately the water never got into the connectors, but soaked the wires Im trying to find a site for carpeting with no luck. Carpeting is outside and drying, might pressure wash and restain the carpet, but would rather replace it. Bill </div></div>take a look at my vendors list on my website. You may be needing some of them.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Theirs a good inch of water on the floor of this car,</div></div> I would start by getting the water out of the floor. There are electric wires running through there. You need to remove anything wet and let it dry. I would do any mechanical work first. Then the interior. Then the exterior to keep from taking a chance of scratching the new finish. Get the same guy to do both the body and the top if possible. That way the same person is responsible if the body or top get damaged. When it comes to scratched paint or torn tops the people doing the installation like to blame someone else.

Jon, When you are finished could you write a detailed account of what was involved in changing to the larger calipers and brakes? Photos would be great also. I would love to add it to my website to benefit others (like me) who might want to do the changeover. Thanks!

John, I'm glad you are taking advantage the instructions. All the members here contribute to making those instructions available.

These parking brakes are the same design used on the 1988 Pontiac Fiero that I once owned. It is common knowledge in Fiero circles that if you do not use this type of parking brake system that they soon get where they will not work. I highly recommend that if you have a parking brake that works that you use it on a regular basis to keep it working. The Fiero had a lever to pull to set the parking brake but the calipers operated the same with the piston ratcheting forward each time it is used to keep the parking brake in adjustment. They freeze up due to corrosion and getting gummed up if they are not used.

Another thing you can do yourself before contacting a mechanic is cleaning the EGR valve. Instructions cleaning it can be found here . Be sure to check the EGR valve closely of cracks.

Check out the brakes by taking the reatta.net brake test. Easy way to find it is click here and scroll down to the middle of the page.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JohnW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there a picture of the vacuum hose and location in the field service manual? </div></div>There probably is. How about looking it up and if you find it let me know. I use the vacuum port that goes into the throttle body when using the Seafoam. It is just to the left of the MAF sensor.

Instructions can be found here for using Seafoam.

Hey guys and gals, At this point this problem is way over diagnosed. What is needed now is a laying on of the hands. There is just so much mentally that can be done to get an engine to start.

Nic, This is just a guess but It could be the return spring on the pedal or a dry pivot point. I would try some WD-40 in that area.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steakneggs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It shouldn't take but 6 or so cycles of the key to pump some fuel up there. I wouldn't waste my time with that wire. Steak </div></div>My thoughts exactly. In my opinion the first thing to do is determine if the pump is running or not.

Lynne, This seems to be getting way too complicated to determine if the fuel pump is running or not. Just sit in the car with the windows up, hopefully the car is located in a quite place, and turn the ignition key to the run position (not start). Listen for a noise that will be a humming type sound. It should only last for about 30 seconds and stop. You can repeat turning the key on and off a few times until you are satisfied that the pump is running or not. As a test, turn the key on for about 30 seconds and then off. (this will prime the fuel system) Do that about 6-8 times and then see if the car will start and run. Report back here if you hear the pump running or not.

Cleaning the IAC is the first thing should do to rule that out. Next it should be tested for proper operation. Then the EGR should be cleaned and tested for proper operation in order to eliminate it as the problem. Here are the instructions for cleaning the EGR valve. Also check for vacuum leaks that can cause a rough idle. Get familiar with the diagnostics system built into the car. There is no reason to continue to worry with diagnostics equipment the is giving erroneous readings. If the mechanic was familiar with the diagnostics screen, he can actually do tests on the IAC from the diagnostics screen by overriding it's perimeters. Same is true for the EGR and other components of the engine control system. There is no need for me to go into detail on the procedure for overrides since I don't think your mechanic would want the advice. If he decides he wants that type of information it can be made available to him here.

Did you search for shims" http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ub...ment#Post519065

Dave, I just added it to the tutorial. Thanks again!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DAVES89</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I wanted to send it to you so you could do the picture and keep it for when you might. If Ronnie still doesn't want it I will send it to anyone who will post the picture. </div></div>Below is a photo of the dash pad removal tool. Thanks to Dave for providing the tool for the photo. The tool is made of 1/16" metal. It measures 2-1/2" x 2-1/8". The lip in the end protrudes out 1/8"

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Drake</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I agree with Jon, also check operation of EGR valve, since you stated idle was rough after engine warmed up. </div></div>I agree. The EGR will cause the rough idle.

Has he ruled out the basics like spark plugs, plug wires, bad Ignition control module or dirty injectors? Look at the base of the coils on the module below for any gray paste type material that may be present. If you see any replace the Ignition control module. What does he mean by deeper? Don't let him lead you to thinking because he couldn't find the problem that it can't be found. Keep digging. You will find your answer here. There is nothing mysterious about the 3.8 in the Reatta. It is no harder to troubleshoot or repair than the engine in a full sized Buick of the same year. As a matter of fact it should be easier with the diagnostics screen. If your mechanic is giving up maybe it is time for a new mechanic.

First, go here and follow the instructions for checking codes in the ECM and report back here. Next, go here and follow the instructions for cleaning the IAC (Idle Air Control). It sounds like that may be your problem.

That is what electricians call smoking out the problem.

Can you hear the fuel pump run when you fist turn the ignition on?

Please add the model of your Reatta to your signature line so we know which style of panel you have. '88 -'89 or '90 - '91.

They bring a premium price.

Does it start if you turn the ignition key on before using the remote?