Ronnie

3M makes weatherstripping adhesive just for that purpose. It comes in two varieties; white, black and yellow. Black is recommended for T-tops. I have used the yellow and it works well. I'm not sure about the white. Sorry matthewlawe. didn't mean to echo what you had said.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DMG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just changed the two injectors. #1 and #3. I changed the injectors because the engine runs really rough and by removing the injector wires one by one I found out that removing #1 and #3 didnt have any effect on the rpm or sound of the engine makes when fuel or spark is removed from a cylinder. Sense those two cylinders didnt change anything I rechecked for spark and there was plenty of spark. The only other thing between them is the injector so I changed those two with no improvement. Thanks, DMG </div></div>Rechecking the spark was not what I was trying to get you to do. By removing one wire at a time, and listening for a drop in the rpm, you can tell if each cylinder running (not just firing). If you have done that and determined that a particular cylinder is NOT running, the next step I would take is to get a stethoscope and press the tip against each injector while the engine is running and listen for a "click". That will tell you if the injector is opening and closing. That will give you an idea if the injector is actually working or not. If you don't have a stethoscope you can use a long screwdriver or wooden dowel instead. Just place your ear against the end and you will hear the injector click.

Hi Amdoll, Welcome to the forum. Two things that you can do that will help you a lot when seeking help for your Reatta: 1. Put the model of your car in your signature line. That way everyone knows the model when we are reading posts. Just click my stuff in the menu above then profile and scroll down to where you add your signature. 2. Register for the Online Field Service Manual. It will have all the diagrams and photos you will need for the ignition lock and most everything else.

Hi Amdoll, Welcome to the forum. Two things that you can do that will help you a lot when seeking help for your Reatta: 1. Put the model of your car in your signature line. That way everyone knows the model when we are reading posts. Just click my stuff in the menu above then profile and scroll down to where you add your signature. 2. Register for the Online Field Service Manual. It will have all the diagrams and photos you will need for the ignition lock and most everything else.

Mike I believe 1&4, 2&5, and 3&6 fire at the same time. That would seem to rule out a bad coil.

Try removing the plug wire from plugs #1 and #3 one at at time while the engine is running to see if the rpm changes when each wire is removed. Don't remove both at the same time. After doing that test I would remove the spark plugs to see if they are wet or dry after idling for a while. Tell us what you find.

Barney, I remember when I took the Fiero calipers apart that on of the adjustment screws had left hand threads either on the larger, coarse threads, or the on threads for the nut that holds the lever on. I'm sure the Reatta will also have left hand threads on one of the screws. It has been 10 years since I had the caliper apart and I can't remember for sure what parts had the left hand threads. Do you know which threads are left hand? It would be good information for anyone who wants to take their caliper and piston assembly apart, without damaging them, to know.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just bought the car - an '86 Fiero GT - for a very good price understanding that it needed some work & have been going through it for the last week or so. This was a surprise but suspect the belt was going all along. Unfortunately I just did not think of it. </div></div> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">On spare car, not a Reatta but a 10SI is a 10SI right ? Circuit looks the same.</div></div> Now all you need is a good 3800 to go with that 10SI in your Fiero. I had an '88 Fiero Formula and that was always the swap I wanted to do. I think I made the best swap in the long run. I swapped the Fiero for a Reatta. I got the 3800 I wanted, more room, bright red paint, power steering and a much better ride!

To me the simplest and probably the best Buick hidden headlight idea was probably invented in Germany by the designers of the Buick Opal GT. It had a lever in the car that rotated the headlights manually.

That subject was discussed about 2 - 3 weeks ago. I don't know what the final verdict was.

If you can block off the return line and check the pressure at the fuel rail you would be able to tell if the problem is the regulator or the fuel pump. I have not looked to see if blocking the return line is possible or not. If you can block off the return line and you build pressure then you have a bad regulator.

You need to find a competent mechanic with a set of AC gauges that can test the low pressure side and the high pressure side of the system and then be able to interpret those readings to determine what may be wrong with the system. I would avoid a dealer if possible. They are expensive.

Have you actually tested across the battery terminals to see if the voltage goes up when the car is running. If not it could just be the voltage reading on the instrument panel not showing the correct voltage.

Once pressure reaches the set pressure of the regulator, the fuel starts flowing back to the tank via the return line. That is normal operation. If you are referring to fuel leaking to the outside of the regulator, I doubt it would reduce the pressure. The pressure is regulated by a spring. If it is leaking I would replace the regulator.

Was the strainer clogged or covered with some type of debris? If the answer is no I would purchase a gallon of of alcohol from someone who supplies it to the local racers. Pour it in the tank and slosh it around for a while. The alcohol will pick up any moisture and break loose any sludge if you have there is any. Pour the alcohol out and look at it closely. If there is very much discoloration to the alcohol then repeat process again with fresh alcohol. IF the strainer is really bad and you have rust particles on it, or the alcohol cleaning results in finding heavy sludge or rust being broken loose, you may want to consider a new tank. I don't know what test for the pump you have in mind but if I had the tank off and I knew the pump had not built pressure as you stated I would replace the pump so I wouldn't have to worry about it when I put the tank back on.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 89ReattaKid</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ok finally found a shop that would look at it. He said it shows only 2.9% of refig.Also he informed me that it had been converted to R134 but only one fitting was converted.He tried to recharge it on the Low side I think but its still doing the same thing.Also he found somthing kind of odd.he says someone has ran some wiring direct to a fuse next to the compressor? Im not sure why or if that has somthing to do with my problem? thanks in advance for the help </div></div>I will try to help. First I have never heard the amount of freon in an A system expressed as a percentage. <span style="font-weight: bold">Did he use some type of machine that gave him a readout as a percentage?</span> All the knowledgeable AC techs that I know use a set of AC gauges made for that purpose. It sounds like someone took a shortcut with the 134a conversion. You said he tried to recharge it on the low side. That is vacuum side of the pump and the only side you should ever attempt to add freon to. You cannot recharge the system properly without the compressor running. If the system is near empty as indicated by him saying the system only had 2.9% then the low pressure sensor would need to be "jumped" in order for the compressor to run. <span style="font-weight: bold">Did he have the compressor running when he tried to recharge the system?</span> When he was finished <span style="font-weight: bold">did he say the system was filled with freon?</span> If you can answer <span style="font-weight: bold">no</span> to either on of the last questions, you need to find a competent mechanic with a set of AC gauges that can test the low pressure side and the high pressure side of the system and then be able to interpret those readings to determine what may be wrong with the system. As for the wire, it sounds like someone has tried to bypass the touch screen AC controls to activate the compressor. Not a good sign that the AC system has been operating properly in the past.

Be aware that the headlight will shine when connected to AC or DC current. Check the outputs of the alternator with a multimeter. If you get a voltage reading on the AC scale and erratic or no readings on the DC scale it would point to the diodes being bad.

I'm thinking you have a bad diode in the bridge rectifier. The alternator has the ability to produce AC current and may test good at 12 volts DC without a load but if you have a bad diode it will allow reverse (AC) current flow through the rectifier which will give a net voltage of 0 volts under load.

The difference could be this: When the engine is running and the alternator is operating the voltage in the electrical system may be slightly higher than when the engine is not running. If the sensor has a higher input voltage there may be a higher output voltage.

The reason those "T shaped thingy" are not in the FSM may be because they are not Reatta parts. Barney can probably clarify this but I'm not sure in his post we are looking at a photo of Reatta parts. He starts out by saying "I have studied a Eldorado caliper" and then refers us to the photo in question. Is it Reatta or Eldorado photos? As you can see in the photo below of the '88 Fiero it is very similar, although not identical to the caliper shown in the FSM. It is accurate. I know because I've had the Fiero calipers apart. I know for a fact that it works just fine without the "T shaped thingys" Just because there are no "T shaped thingy" shown in the FSM or the FSM photo I provided doesn't mean the FSM is wrong. I would bet on it being correct.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JSBojanglz</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I want to do some fuel pump diagnostics, but I don't know where to start. If it's covered in the FSM please point me in that direction, but kindly translate the instructions to english. Any input would be more than welcomed. Thanks, guys! </div></div> You should have dianosed the fuel pump problem with the tank on the car by checking the pressure at the fuel rail. Did you do that? If not what leads you to believe the problem is the fuel pump? Lean Mixture doesn't always = bad fuel pump.

I didn't mention turbulence. I questioned why Padgett thought RoadmstrNReatta needed a rebuilt ABS unit. I still wonder why. I know Padgett is very smart on these matters and I would like to know his reasoning. He must have saw something in another post that I missed to think a rebuilt ABS unit was needed.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="color: #FF0000">Sounds like you need a rebuilt ABS unit.</span> I just passed on a very nice appearing triple blue 'vert because the yellow light never went off & owner was not willing to adjust the price accordingly. </div></div>Did you possibly read his last post incorrectly? He said he has good brakes and the yellow ABS light was out. Why would he need a new ABS unit?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steakneggs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanx for posting those pics, Barney. <span style="color: #FF0000">They are not shown in the FSM.</span> The piston, adjuster and T shaped thing are called the "piston assembly".</div></div>Scroll about halfway up this thread and you will see the complete parts breakdown for the rear caliper that shows all those parts. It came from the FSM.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ronnie, you have my write-up on the conversion posted already, although I did not provide pics.</div></div>Sorry, I had forgotten about putting it on there. Thanks for writing it.