Ronnie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CL_Reatta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Already treid that earlier this weekend... drove it around and everything... next day back to not starting again </div></div> What about immediately after you returned home and the engine was still warm? Would it start right back up? How did it run when you were driving it around? Give us details about the symptoms you are having and maybe we can help.

The next time you get it started keep it running for a while. If it smooths out and starts running good the problem could possibly go away... If you're lucky.

When the car started did you let it run for a while?

The photo you are showing is of the AC pulley and clutch... Not the harmonic balancer. The harmonic balancer is on the end of the crankshaft.

<span style="font-weight: bold">That is a beautiful car!</span>

Have you tried holding the gas pedal on the floor to see it will start. It could be flooded really bad. Holding the gas pedal on the floor while you crank will put the ECM in flood mode and stop spraying gas while the car cranks. Couldn't hurt to try that.

You can tell a lot about the condition of your balancer by looking at it closely. The outer pulley and inner hub are connected by a rubber material. If you see cracks around the outside edge or at the hub, or there are small chunks missing you need to replace the balancer, even if it is not making noise or giving problems.

I would like to give you some good advice that may help you. You're never going to get any good quality help here for your car the way you are going about it. You need to start new threads for each problem. Stay on topic with each one until the problem is solved. The shotgun approach of throwing out a half dozen problems one day and then adding more problems the next day and then never mentioning some of them again is very confusing. It is hard to follow a thread like this and comment appropriately. Just my 2¢

I think it would have been wise to check for spark before buying a new coil pak (ignition module?).

I don't doubt what you are saying but that will be the first time I have known a solid black wire to be anything other than a ground on a vehicle. I would check closely for some type of feedback from another circuit.

Test with a meter to see if there is continuity between the two black wires. Then test to see if there is continuity between the black wires and a good ground on the frame. If there is then they are just ground wires. The reason you need the ground wires is probably due to poor grounding through the trunk lid hinges.

Have you read this thread completely? It has a lot of info you can use.

I would go back and remove the door panel and look for pinched wires that could be shorted. The start disconnecting wires to see if that helps.

Sorry, I've never replaced the trunk key switch. If you find out how let me know. I need to replace the door on mine.

Wires that run under the seat are prone to shorting and bad connections. Any water standing there?

http://forums.motorswap.org/viewtopic.php?t=1396&sid=33913f1b3078dc35ddd5aa1ad44886a3

Be sure to select the correct oil for the 134a also.

You will need to install schrader valve adapters to use 134a if you decide to go that route. The filler valves are a different size for 134a. To fill the system yourself you will need to be able to pull a vacuum on the system to remove all the air and a set of AC gauges to charge it properly.

I was just typing up about the same thing Rawja just said. I agree with him. Your car appears to need a lot of work and you will have to price it accordingly in order to sell it.

Thanks for the info.

Bad assumption for my part. I can't afford to buy a 30 pound tank of freon at one time and I wouldn't if I could. I don't do AC work professionally and from what I read in ol_yeller's original post he doesn't either. I was assuming the shop who fills the system would be responsible for the oil and any mess that goes with it. At that price they quoted they should. When I fill a system I do use the premix for oil and have not experienced any problems or mess. I guess we see it from different perspectives. Maybe you do AC work to enough to justify spending the money on the oil adapter and the 30 pound tanks. I just have the minimal equipment to get the job done I stick with the cans.

I don't understand why you say it is a pain. When you pull a vacuum it sucked into the same port as the freon. I've never found it to be a problem. Are you using something other than the premix that comes in a can like freon?

Yes there is different oil for R-12 and 134a. The oil in a new/rebuilt compressor usually is just a small amount of oil that is used for lubrication during assembly. It is not intended to be the lubricating oil for the system when in operation. I don't think it would be enough to make a difference in mixing with the proper oil that is added when the system is charged with freon.

I'll give you my opinion. I would consider changing over to 134a since you will have the system apart. This will be the best time if you are ever going to do it. While you have the system apart you should change all the O-rings you can where connections are made. Even if you don't need to take them apart I would take them apart and change them. Good Insurance to prevent leaks in the future. The FSM should show where o-rings are located. The new/rebuilt compressor should ship with plugs installed and have enough oil to lubricate it but not enough to run continually. The extra oil needed for operation should be installed at the same time the system is filled with freon. That should be included in the charge for filling the system. DO NOT run the compressor until you get it to the mechanic. I would disconnect the low pressure switch to make certain the compressor cannot run on the trip to the AC mechanic.

Do you know what year Camaro the muffler was originally for?