Ronnie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I take it you feel altering the MAF signal is going to just end up in chasing my tail as the ECM will adjust the mix despite the MAF trying to trick the ECM because the O2 will read the lean burn?</div></div> Yes, after the engine is warmed up and has the system has gone into "closed loop" the O2 sensor is pretty much controlling the show while idling or cruising. Under moderate to hard acceleration the other sensors such as MAP, MAF and TPS come more into play. The ECM uses those sensors to determine the proper ignition timing and injector pulse width to provide smooth acceleration at low RPM and wide throttle openings without bogging down or misfiring due to improper fuel/air mixture. Trying to modify or "trick" the ECM into providing a leaner mixture is only going to hinder it from doing the job it was designed to do which is keep the fuel/air mixture in the optimum setting of ~14.7 to 1. That is the ratio where gasoline mixed with air (and is atomized properly) burns the most efficiently and produces the most power. For better gas I would suggest you do basic things that are proven to work. 1. Keep a mechanically sound engine. Check your compression to be sure it is within specs. Low compression means there is an internal problem with your engine and it lowers the efficiency of the engine. Watch for excessive oil consumption, it effects the operation of the O2 sensor. Be careful of additives you put in your oil and fuel. Some of them can harm the O2 sensor's ability to send the proper signal to the ECM. 2. Keep your engine tuned properly. That means change the air and fuel filters often, use 5w30 weight oil, change spark plugs at recommended intervals, change your 02 sensor, be sure your catalytic converter and muffler are in good working order and put a can of fuel injection cleaner in the tank often. Dirty injectors will not atomize the fuel properly. Go into the diagnostics screen's ECU section and look to see if the engine is going into "closed loop" when the engine has warmed up. 3. Keep your tires inflated properly. Stay on the high side of the recommended range of pressure. Low air pressure increases rolling resistance which in turn decreases gas mileage. Wide tires also increase rolling resistance. 4. Mash the accelerator pedal like you had an egg between your foot and it. Suddenly pressing the accelerator pedal causes the ECM to inject extra gasoline to keep the engine from stumbling or bogging down which causes a decrease in mileage. 5. When possible, drive the lowest speed you can that will allow the transmission to shift into 4th gear (overdrive) and keep the torque converter locked. On my car that is about 48 miles per hour. At that speed the engine and transmission will be operating efficiently and the body of the car will have the least wind resistance. 6. Avoid stops and starts when possible. Select roads that have less red lights and stop signs. You are not getting any gas mileage when you are sitting still! 7. Don't spend your money on snake oil additives and gadgets that are the "secret" to getting huge gas mileage numbers. Save that money to buy gas. You will come out better in the long run. Most of the things I have listed most of us know. We just don't do them. I know I don't. I would rather be riding down the road enjoying my car than tweaking it to get the last MPG out of it. Life is too short to drive down the road trying to maintain 48 miles per hour and worrying about having to stop in order to get better mileage. Sorry this turned out to be another long post.

Well, I know I'm going to get a good argument started so here goes. The air fuel ration of 14.7 to 1 is the optimum air to fuel ratio. Somewhere near that range is what the ECU tries to maintain for best combustion inside the cylinders. That is the range where the fuel mixture burns the most efficient. Making the fuel mixture leaner will not necessarily result in better gas mileage. When you deviate too far from the 14.7 to 1 ratio the engine will start to run poorly and lose power. To make up for the lost power you will need to open the throttle more which lets in more lean mixture and there goes your mileage you were hoping to archive with the lean mixture. If getting better gas mileage was as simple as the mixture being leaner, GM would have already programmed it into the computer for you. Now you have some good information that you can dispute. Now you say... what produces better gas mileage? What you will need to do usually costs money and sometimes breaks emission laws. Two places to look for better mileage is in increasing the efficiency of the engine and reducing the load on the engine. The easiest way to increase the efficiency of our engines is to modify the intake and exhaust systems to be less restrictive. Start with the exhaust system. Add a set of tuned headers that are tuned (correctly sized) for low RPM. Long headers with a small diameter will help keep mixture velocity up in the engine at lower RPM thereby improving efficiency. Adding the proper length collector to the headers also improves low RPM power. Since driving on the street with open headers is not practicable remove the catalytic converter and install a free flowing muffler and exhaust pipes with no sharp bends. Next comes the intake system. Again reducing restriction and improving flow is the goal. Low restriction air filters and a straight connection to a cold air location is about as good as you can do. That is about all you can do to the engine without getting inside the engine and changing the cam and increasing the compression ratio (just a little, pump gasoline won't allow much). After working on the intake and exhaust system you will find the ECU may not be able to keep the air fuel mixture in the optimum 14.7 to 1 ratio. Now it's time to find a tuner with a laptop and PROM burner that can set the chip perimeters to where the correct fuel mixture will be maintained with the less restrictive intake and exhaust system. The timing will need to be tweaked for the best setting for gas mileage. Now, we need to reduce the load on the engine and any racer can tell you the best three ways to do that are... reduce weight, reduce weight and reduce weight. Next best way to reduce load on the engine is to reduce friction in the form of air drag and rolling resistance. I will leave it to the imagination on how to do that but if you are serious you will end up with a car that looks like it is ready for the salt flats. For heavens sake don't forget those tall skinny tires that we all like and those full wheel covers. I personally like driving my Reatta around as it came from the factory on Sundays and not worrying about that extra 3 miles per gallon. If I wanted better mileage I would have bought a Civic Hybrid. Now after all this typing I look forward to sitting back and reading the replies.

That's great Dave. I'm always looking for good info to post there. Thanks!!

Nic, Look at this information if you haven't already. I hope it helps.

Dave you have hit the big time! You now have two tutorials on my website. One is on the dash pad removal and the other is on the photocell replacement . I made some changes to the wording. If you see anything wrong please let me know. I already had a good troubleshooting tutorial on the insturment panel lights by Howard.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fox W.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Generally I've have had terrible luck with used or any reman. parts. I'm having a mechanic do this, and they were looking for just the joint. Other than ease of installation, is there any drawback to getting only the joint? I suppose that based on the reaction here that CV joints are one of those things where new/reman doesn't make much difference? (Quite unlike pumps, compressors, or starters, so I've found.) </div></div> Yes, the drawback is your half shaft will have one new CV joint and one that is probably worn just as bad as the one your mechanic wants to replace. He will more than likely charge you more in labor for replacing one CV joint than you could spend to get the reman half shaft. Why not take some good advice you have been given here and install a new or reman half shaft and be done with it. If your mechanic disagrees, get a new mechanic. After all it is your car.

Check the 15 amp fuse for the Central Power Supply. It is fuse # 5 in the fuse panel on the passenger side of the console. There is a small door there that can be removed to check the fuses. I would check all the fuses while you are in there.

I was referring to using new transmission fluid and it not drawing moisture from the air. I should have been more clear. I should have said I have never saw water accumulated in the bottom of a transmission pan when I removed it. I have actually saw water mixed with transmission fluid in the manner your describe.

Mineral spirits in transmission fluid? A long time ago I worked at a garage where we removed and rebuilt transmissions. I was told by the owner that transmission fluid is a light weight hydraulic oil with red color added for leak detection. I've never heard anyone say it had mineral spirits. Have you read something that makes you think it would? If so maybe I suggested the wrong fluid.

I would use transmission fluid. I've never saw water in transmission fluid and it is made to prolong the life of rubber parts.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dmashburn</div><div class="ubbcode-body">THE DASH LIGHTS ON MY 89 BUICK REATTA JUST QUIT WORKING. MY UNDERSTANDING IS THE INSTRUMENT PANEL SHOULD BE REPLACED. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. </div></div>Welcome to the forum. Please include the model of you car in all your posts or even better include it in your signature line. There were two completely different instrument panels used in the Reatta. '88-'89 and '90-'91.

Thanks guys. I'm glad you find the site useful.

Something seems odd to me. He has a title and doesn't know if it is 90 or 91? Convertible with 50000 miles for $200?

I think it would be like trying to win the 2008 Daytona 500 with a 56 Buick.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fox W.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks guys. I am not expert on these matters, so could someone let me know if this would work? It claims to be new, OEM. Does this have the actual CV joint in it? It also says to be for an 1988, are the they same? </div></div> The top link shows only a CV joint. Save yourself some time and get a rebuilt or new halfshaft.

I agree, something is wrong. The mileage doesn't match the condition of the car. I would stay away.

Cordless just would have more portability for quick jobs. You could take it to the driveway and remove lug nuts without running a cord and you could take it out on the road where there is no power in emergencies. If you want high torque the corded version would be better. I'm sure corded is cheaper.

You would think Jim Finn would be interested. Maybe he hasn't noticed your listing. PM him.

I have an Ingersol(sp?) Rand 1/2" impact. It works great for removing bolts. It is only useful for running smaller bolts (5/16 and smaller) up and then tighten them with a torque wrench. It has no means of controlling the torque and will snap the small bolts if you let it hammer hardly any at all. I wish I had paid the extra money and got a battery powered one.

An old compressor out of a refrigerator will work well as a vacuum pump. It can be used on automobile A/C systems if you want to make an adapter to connect it a set of A/C gauges. I have used one before but it is very slow.

If you agree with the investing theory of "Buy Low... Sell High" you should be buying right now.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Question: what about a reverse flush? Pump fluid through the bleeder valve back to the master cylinder and use a turkey baster to get the old fluid out.</div></div> Ken, That might possibly be a bad idea. Any debris like rust, metal particles and moisture tend to accumulate at the lowest point in a hydraulic system that does not make a complete loop back to the pump and reservoir. That is due to gravity. Brake systems are the same type of hydraulic system. Fluid pushed through the lines never returns to the pump or reservoir. By pushing the fluid from the caliper, (bottom of the system), back to the reservoir would pump any sediment that has settled at the bottom back through the ABS valves and master cylinder, which might cause problems. Just my opinion.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EagleKammback</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well, I didn't find this place until today, I love the Reatta even though they are FWD (I HATE FWD) Took this pictyure on my trip to or from NC, thought you would like to see it </div></div> Welcome to the forum. Are you a Reatta owner? Is the photo of your car? You will find a lot of information on the Reatta here. If you are new to Reattas visit my website at the link below for lots of articles and history about the Reatta.

Amen. Anything else would go against the well established laws of physics.

You are probably correct. I hadn't given it any thought when I wrote my last post. I was thinking in terms of it causing a spark at the wrong time by being out of adjustment but that may not be possible without losing spark.