Ronnie

From the perspective of sitting inside the car I agree. But from a mechanics point of view I hate front wheel drive cars. Just seems like anything I do is harder on one of them. There is not enough room under the hood.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barney Eaton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Unless the dealer jacked up the price....NO The 1988 was a standard coupe with 16 way seat and that was it.....whatever MSRP Same with the 1990. </div></div>I thought the '88 s 60 had a special hood badge. How else were they identified? I read sometimes the badge was not installed at the factory but was sent to the dealer later. Correct?

Barney, did the select 60 cost the dealer or the public extra?

Check for ABS codes through the ALDL connector. They will not show up in diagnostics screen. Follow the procedure in the FSM section 5E1-8 to retrieve the codes. Let us know the results.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 89ReattaKid</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No going to do that now and It provides diagnostic test for this and other things? </div></div> Yes. it is the same manual the dealerships used. You can purchase them for $50-$100 used. I have a real one but I prefer the online version for fast searches. Here is the link to it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there a hot/cold door or switch thats run by vacuum?</div></div>Yes, there is a hot/cold air door behind the glove box. I believe it is vacuum operated. Has anyone directed you to the reatta.net free field service manual? You need to sign up for it but it will help you alot.

If the compressor is cycling on and off constantly and it is hot outside I would put my money on low freon. That would be the first thing to check. It is more than likely cycling on and off because the low pressure switch is cutting out the compressor. Find someone with a set A/C gauges that can check it with certainty. Looking at the condenser is not good enough. You really need to know for sure if it had enough freon before going any further. Nothing else you can do will overcome a low freon condition. Steak is right these cars have a door that diverts the airflow that frequently gives problems. Search the forum and you will find lots of info on how to check it.

87 octane runs fine in my '88.

89ReattaKid, Welcome to the board! You threw out a lot of problems at once in this thread. I would recommend you start a new thread with one problem and tell us any history you know about it. Stick with it (stay on topic and don't get side tracked) until you resolve that problem. Then start another tread for the next problem until you have them all resolved. It will be much easier to accomplish your goal of getting everything fixed on your car. Trying to resolve several issues in one thread usually just results in frustration. Also if you will add the model of your car to your signature line it will a great help to all of us.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RoadmstrNReatta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A cheap to buy Reatta is NEVER "cheap" for long I am finding out!!!!! </div></div>I know what you are saying all too well. I think most of us probably get more tied up in our Reattas than we would like.

You are correct. It wouldn't test the accumulator's ability to hold pressure. I was under the impression we were needing to test the pump. I was looking for an easy way to do it. The brake test on Reatta.net already has a test for the accumulator being bad.

In response: 1. If you used speed as a requirement you would need to throw out more than half the cars on the AACA forums as investment worthy. 2. If they have no mystique then why do people ask me all the time "what kind of car is that" and pull up beside me and tell me they really like the car? I've had lots of conversations at the gas pumps because people want to know about the car. 3. They came from a forgettable period to us now but so were the '40 to my father. At that period in time those old cars were just good transportation to him. Now those cars are some of the most sought after cars there are. If I just had all the cars I know of that he owned during that period I would be a rich man. It's a matter of perspective. I agree that Reattas are great deals. If I had a place to store them without costing me money I would have more than one.

Barney, that looks like it would work. however I have another Idea that I would like to add. What about taking an old accumulator and making an adapter out of it by drilling and tapping the hole in the top where the allen wrench fits, the correct size so you could screw a pressure gauge into it? You would need to pierce the bladder in the old accumulator (it would probably be broken already) to allow the pressure to reach the gauge. Then you could remove the accumulator from the car and screw your new adapter into the the manifold to test pump pressure. See Photo below.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fox W.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I certainly will do. Is it possible though that the penetrating oil will contaminate the brake fuild? </div></div>Wipe it off before unscrewing the accumulator.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fox W.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Turns out they did try it right, and it really is just rusted. If this is a fairly easy DIY project, then I think I will take it on at some point. It takes 1 - 2 petal pumps to make the pump come on. I think that means I should replace the accumulator sooner than later. </div></div> I would replace the accumulator as soon as possible. 1 - 2 pedal pumps indicates you have a bad accumulator. Running with a bad accumulator makes the pump run more than it should a could cause premature failure of the pump. Find a good penetrating oil like Aero Kroil and spray the fitting on the accumulator daily for about a week and the accumulator should come out much easier.

Put the NEW accumulator back on.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steakneggs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've never seen it either because my pump was bad. The FSM on page 5E1-87, Chart 5E1-75 says to look for visable flow of fluid in the reservoir. No flow means bad pump. Flow means bad master cylinder. I don't know from experience what goes on inside that awful thing. Maybe what they mean by visable flow is the initial fluid level drop which wouldn't even happen if the accumulator was pressurized. A better way to check the pump would be to unhook the pressure line, hold it in a container and turn the key on. Steak </div></div> I can agree that looking for "visible flow" is a good way to see if the reservoir is open and the pump is moving any fluid. Holding the pressure line in a container would tell you if the pump as getting any flow from the reservoir but to get an accurate evaluation of the pumps ability to build pressure you would need to check it with a pressure gauge setup as shown below.

Not to be argumentative but I'm curious as to how the reservoir can have turbulence. Just looking at my system it appears to have two outlets on the bottom that go directly into the master cylinder and another outlet on the bottom with a hose that feeds the pump. The two outlets that connect directly to the master cylinder feed pistons that push fluid toward the calipers and then the fluid returns back to the master cylinder through the same openings. The other outlet has a hose connected to it that feeds a pump that pressurizes the system and then cuts off. Please explain how the fluid can have "turbulence" without a return line for fluid to flow back to the reservoir. I looked into my reservoir with the key on and the only thing I saw was the fluid level going down as the pump filled the accumulator and then the pump cut off. No turbulence. Maybe my pump is going bad. Has anyone else here observed turbulence in the reservoir?

I agree with CL. Other members here have reported a clogged reservoir. It could be your problem as well.

It is also possible the accumulator you purchased is bad. That would account for the pump running a long time to build pressure. Did you buy the accumulator new?

Thanks for the offer Dave but I'm not currently needing the tool. I was wanting the photo for the benefit of others here on the forum and I was also going to add the photo to the tutorial on my website. I really appreciate your generous offer. Ronnie

I didn't know if they might be related or not. Have you tried adjusting it by pressing the status button on the bottom right of the touch screen?

Got a photo Dave?

Thanks Maui. If enough people agree with it I will consider adding it to the website. BTW, thanks for saying "our" website. That is what I intended it to be.

Click here to read how to troubleshoot the instrument panel. Please put the model of your Reatta in your signature line or tell us what model you have each time you post. It really helps us help you.