johnemac

One day while driving to work a mouse ran across my thighs. I looked all over for a nest to no avail. Then being the peak of summer I got the "hot death" smell in the car...very bad. I finally found it under the passenger floor mat. Bought a 2000 Eldorado, removed the mouse nest in the blower. Bought a 2013 Ford Escape and removed the mouse nest from the blower. Many ,many, Escape forum entries regarding mouse nests in blowers. The problem is that mice urinate alot and eventually a trail is made to where they nest, then others follow when the prior one is eradicated. One has to wash the tires and engine bay to reduce repeat offenders.

The problem is that being from Kansas City I am only 150 miles closer to it than you.

Maui Blue convertible for $2,500 !! Craigslist Pompano Beach Fl. I hate myself in times like this when I am financially responsible. I already have a Maui Blue convertible but then again I could probably make money flipping this.

Harry Yarnell I see you in the Cadillac forums. Think wrenching on a Reatta is bad, get yourself a Northstar Eldorado and scar up your knuckles. You can put bags of groceries in front of the radiator, but good luck to you behind the radiator. 2000 Eldorado with 13,000 miles, still new car smell...... Of course it was not the O2 sensor, so now I am going to change plugs and put in AC Rapidfires. I know plugs and wires would typically be the first route to take, but I had done that just a couple months ago and added a premium oversize silicon wire set.

The first thing I checked was plug wire placement because I was pulling and replacing wires. I had already sprayed around the manifold prior and found a pinched O ring on the IAC. The IAC was at that time was replaced with a spare. Prior to this I had an intermittent coil that took forever to get figured out and another problem was one injector not working due to a bad ECM which was easy. I have been scanning prior posts and reading about a bad O2 sensor so I will pick one up. Thank You for replies.....

I have a problem where the 90 starts up and drives about 5 miles then it seems the ignition breaks down. I have new plugs and wires, swapped out ICM, Fuel pressure is good. I had recently replaced the harmonic balancer and I believe the crankshaft sensor is responsible for go/no go only, not misfires (correct me if I am wrong). I pull into the garage and I have the miss and the motor surges. I hook up coil fire indicators and I have a good spark. Any ideas?

I had to remove a blower motor in a 2000 El Dorado that the cam cover would not let out. Caddy forums said order Thexton 419X GM engine moving tool, remove the two upper doglegs and attach it. Loosen the front two motor mount bolts about two inches and tighten the Thexton tool until you have the clearance you need. Worked for me, but i realize the engine is rocking forward from the top and may not help, but I throw it out. I found the best deal on the tool on that big auction site under JBtoolsales02 for a shipped price of 39.94. Some people complain about replacing the rear spark plugs ( I have no problem) but this tool would certainly help.

I guess what I was looking for was someone to chime in and say "there are two apps for 90's, one for hardtops and one for convertibles, you need the other". I did not proof read my math and the prior ones were thinner by at least a half to three quarters than the new ones. The only thing I can think of is that the prior owner had installed some odd brand or application that had a longer spring and thinner strut mount .

I am sorry, but I was talking about the front. The 6 and 5/8th inch wide rubber "bumper" that makes up the mount. The ride is affected and one can see the front end of the car higher. I only changed the strut mount because it was squeaky. The application that did not fit was for a 1990 and it was monroe, the next one was a 'no name" ebay set listed for a 1990. Both too thick.

About four years ago I ordered a set of strut mounts for my 1990 convertible. The new strut mount rubber pieces are about an 1"and 3/4 thick. The ones that I removed were about an 1" and 1/2. I was in a pinch and mounted the thicker ones, and needless to say I've been dealing with a horrible ride. I am trying to set things straight but the application I order are the thicker style. I would appreciate any help. UPDATE......I finally figured out the struts were Gabriel and the strut mount for those are about a half inch thinner than Monroes. That small amount makes a BIG difference in the ride and the appearance of the car. I got lucky and Rockauto has a wholesaler discounting them for $9 dollars and change,

Figured it out and did not use the sawzall.

I am in the process of removing the dashboard to repair the broken lever that will give me the AC out of the front vents. The dash is loose and floppy but is hung up to the right of the steering. It seems there is one screw to be removed to free up the dash. I pull the dash out and behind I see a screw out behind a 2 in square connector, which itself is held on by 2 screws. I'm sorry but I only have an 89 FSM and I do not see anything close. At the minimum it looks like a knuckle busting, laying upside down, vertigo inducing task. Any tips would be highly appreciated.

I have an engine miss and have traced it to the right rear injector that a noid light will not respond to. The noid light works on all other cylinders. In tracing the issue I honed in on that cylinder because it's spark plug insulator was pure white. Is this either an open wire to the ECM; or the ECM itself, or possibly something else? Thank You for any tips or comments

You make me sound like a complete moron... First, the nail acts like a pin, many types of drive units use a pin in their assembly. This nail, as used, will never, ever shear. The J. B. Weld fills in the "wallows" and thus aligns the crank on the motor. Nothing is going to explode. So far I have 7 years on one and 5 years on another. Besides, if I bought an aftermarket crank someone will come out of the woodwork and chastise me for having a non stock part on my car.

If it is just the soft arm rounded out I take a small drill bit and drill thru the arm, thru the mount, and out the other side of the arm. I put the arm on the mount with a dab of J B weld to fill the rounded area, put a small nail thru the drilled hole and never deal with that problem again. 5 minute fix.