JZRIV

Are there any other stamps on the valley pan surface that you have pictured above? Thinking the 3F may be the identifier which indicates a 1959 364. The piston part number seems to match up to a 364 based on internet search as well as the head number comes up as 364/401/425. Go to Teambuick.com tons of Buick engine numbers

Philip the photo you posted is not a Riviera

Original exterior color was Sahara Mist. The more I look at the floor repair the more it appears to be of very inferior craftsmanship. Certainly I've seen worse but considering the price of the car I'd expect better. Its too bad because a car like this would justify doing it right but everyone has a budget and differing perception of what's "right" Doesn't look like anything was touched/rebuilt on the chassis and suspension. At least not for decades. That can be a good thing, again only if the price reflects it because there a lot of work there to bring it up to reliable condition. Its irrelevant but isn't that a stamping error on the POP for the transmission. Has a T instead of an S. Not really that uncommon I don't think.

Yep that would be for blower motor

Its going to have to be custom made by a shop as Tom suggested. These cars aren't popular enough for someone to reproduce it.

Welcome to the forum Mark. Great looking 72!!! Was it black paint from the factory?

Never hurts to shoot a little WD40 or other lube behind the trim prior.

I did not get this issue yet but will say that's one of the best cover shots I've seen. Congrats!

I always spend a lot of time insuring the surfaces are straight, flat, smooth. As Ed said they (metal covers) are always deformed around the bolt holes. I use a 1/4" drive ratchet when tightening which helps avoid over tightening. No torque wrench as I personally am more comfortable going by feel on these. You can almost feel when the metal is about to start deforming. Insure both surfaces are clean and free of old gasket or sealer remnants. I prefer the cork-rubber composition. I smear a very thin film of black RTV gasket maker on both sides of gasket with finger. Thin enough that it won't noticeably squeeze out. Leave sit for a day before starting. Felpro is certainly a well known reliable gasket but given an option, I've always choose Victor Reinz. Just seems to be a little more attention to detail in design. Of course it could be just a perception.....sort of like who makes the best pizza. 😏

Welcome to the forum Not a factory option but it was a dealer installed item.

Hi Thomas I have one including both tie rods but the joint for pitman arm coming off steering box is a little loose. The rest of it seems to be OK at least as well as can be checked off the car. Let me know if interested and we can talk via PM

PY code with X in a circle on the bottom left axle tube 2-4" over from Diff housing. I've seen that car before, I'll do some digging through my files and see if I have any notes. the side marker lights added on make it unique. Its a sharp looking car thats for sure Send me a pic of Fisher tag and VIN The engine stamps will tell you if its the original engine but as stated no difference GS or Non GS

Damon, $10k for paint on a Riviera won't get you much in the way of quality. A Mustang maybe, but not a Riviera. Starting at $15k is more realistic. Far better to let someone else incur that cost of a paint job and let them lose the money when they go to sell! Sad but true in many cases. And its not just the cost, dealing with body shops can be a notoriously frustrating adventure and many can attest. After my first 25 years buying and fixing Rivs and special interest cars from my region in the northeast US, I finally came to my senses after purchasing a car that spent its life in an arid climate and vowed I would never buy another hobby car that spent time in the rust belt. Being someone who pays attention to cost of the car hobby both in monetary and my time/labor ,it didn't take long to realize the cost of having a car shipped across the US from a western arid climate is a mere fraction of the cost you will incur when restoring, doing general maintenance, etc on an average car from the rust belt. Having said that, of course there are exceptions. Pampered well cared for cars can be found in the rust belt either transplants from the west or from previous owners that were extreme in their care keeping the car out of the salt and rain. My point is, consider not limiting your search to the northeast in hopes of avoiding a $1500 transport fee and/or an airline ticket to go view a car. 50 y/o arid climate cars disassemble like they were just put together compared to the rusty barnacle buckets of the NE.

You're not the first one to make that statement! These Rivs are great driving, well built, well engineered and reliable cars. One of the more common things newcomers to the Riviera world fail to identify prior to buying a car is the limited availability of reproduction parts particularly if someone is accustomed to owning a mainstream classic where you can almost build a car with repop parts. They buy a cheap car thinking they can fix it up for a few bucks and save money vs buying something really nice with little needs and paying more up front. Costs can really ad up fast even doing the work yourself. Note last line in my signature 🙂

Yea and it looks like the Z was done with a chisel! The seller should be notified. Maybe they know and don't care but its possible they're going by what the person they got it from told them but still shame on them for not properly vetting what is being represented as a very rare car. This is exact reason I never wanted to post the original MZ stamp in a public forum as well as using careful judgement when sending it privately.

The paint on this car is horrible. When paying that much, you want better paint especially if a repaint. If its original paint some defects are expected but a repaint like this is much worse than worn original paint in my opinion. The exhaust system is horrible as well. I'd stay away from that car. Often there is a reason some cars end up at a specialty dealer. Great cars will sell themselves without the need for fancy marketing. I do commend this dealer for providing very good detail pics.

Got chuckle out of this ad. EVERYTHING is original in caps......then goes on to say paint is not original😂 😂 As of late I've seen this repeated in other ads. Apparently the word original now has same perceived value as barn find.

It would be wise to post some pics of the car here where very experienced eyes can pick up on the slightest visual concerns.

You are correct. I have ran across worn bolts in the past. when going back together, be sure to have the car sitting on the tires so suspension is at normal compression then torque the heck out of those big lower control arms bolts. Agree With Tom. I would not replace the original ball joints if they are still good.

Tom, Took that photo at the Lexington ROA meet of an original spare the original owner removed for display. He was also in Gettysburg and I spoke with him again. He was asking if I knew anyone who would be interested in buying the tire. As much I I liked it, considering the unlikelihood I'd ever find 3 more, I was not interested. Wouldn't it be cool to see a 67 GS sporting original H70 redlines! This is the car its from at Gettysburg in 19

Well, here is an original Goodyear from a 67 Riv GS. Its bias. Redline radials not available

Can remember the last time I saw a 72 with no A/C and no PW. Looks like its in great condition with low miles

Tom is correct. Does not appear to be the larger pulley but the A/C compressor or clutch could have been replaced with incorrect part. Not an uncommon circumstance. Here is a 67 GS and 68 GS with larger pulley. 70 would be same. Sometimes depending on rust the stamp on axle tube can be hard to see. Some were stamped by weaklings and are not very deep while other were stamped by the hulk and remain visible despite scale rust.

Yes PY = 3.42 ratio specifically which assuming the car has it, that's about as close as you'll get to confirming a GS in 1970. The 3.42 ratio in a posi could have been ordered on a base model but in my experience it was extremely uncommon. In fact I have never ran across one in a 66-70. If the car still has the original A/C compressor get a pic of it and post. 3.42 equipped cars came with a larger A/C pulley to slow it down since engine was at a higher average speed with the 3.42 ratio. Nothing on the POP indicates GS specifically. The PY is a very solid sign though. Having said that, POPs have been known to be in error. Just confirm car has it. The PY with X in a circle was stamped on bottom of driver side axle tube 2-4 inches over from diff housing. Does it have Chrome air cleaner lid?

E - Tinted glass X- Power Windows Y - 6 way power bench seat K- A/C R - Rear seat speaker F - Remote mirror Only options that required preparation by Fisher Body will be on the tag. Other options such as AM/FM radio for example don't show on tag because it was not relevant to how the body was built.