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  1. Shoot. I guess I will see if they can capture of photo of the rear axle. Really appreciate all the insight here!
  2. That's reassuring. Here is an image of the engine with the AC compressor. Not sure if anything can be seen from this image or not. It does have the chrome air cleaner cover. My 68 has the badging and chrome air cleaner but after receiving we confirmed it didnt have posi. Thankfully it was purchased at a price expecting it to be a non GS. i will see if they can get a photo of the axle tube for me.
  3. The sellers arent sure for certain. I always thought the POP has coding which shows both GS as well as posi. I own a 68 which has the badging, etc but no posi and POP didnt reflect the GS option so I know its not a true GS. So dont want to pay for a fake GS on this '70. I used to have what the codes meant but cant find it and assumed somebody here might have something hand to decode the POP
  4. Looking at a 1970 that has GS badging and I have the protect o plate for. Curious if anybody can decipher offhand if this is a GS? Thanks!
  5. Thanks for the replies. Car has 83k miles on it. The guy who did rebuild is a very good mechanic with 40 years experience so I know he did a solid job on the rebuild. It's got new pertronix ignition, coil, distributor. It has glass packs for mufflers that appear in good shape with no leaks. The mechanics did a thorough once over while on the lift. Havent considered fuel pump. Would a bad one cause general inconsistent or rough running? That would be a cheap replacment. It has newer wires and plugs too along with almost new radial tires. I guess it sounds like maybe going with a new gear ratio might be the best bet. I dont want to do any other molestation to the original engine. Thanks for the input!
  6. I recently acquired a '68 riv. All original. Had carb rebuilt, new distributor. It's very clean and runs great. Starts great, idles smooth and no hesitation. It just seems to not have the power it should. I own a 63 and 75 riv as well and both of those seem to have more take off power than the 68 which holds more HP than the other 2. It definitely wont spin the tires. Just curious if this what it is or I need to look at doing something else? I'm not expecting it to be a Viper or anything but just curious if perhaps upgrading to a different gear ratio would be beneficial?
  7. Thanks for the reply. Looks like the guys working on my AC are going to fabricate a new one for me. Cut the top off and gut the parts and put it into a new canister. Hope it all works! Will post photos when its done. Thanks!
  8. Thanks for the replies. So sounds like finding a replacement muffler is going to be nearly impossible? Cant imagine I'm not the only one who has had this issue. I saw rocky5517 get his welded on. Any other ideas? Do other GM cars have similar viable options?
  9. Just a follow up here. This part number was right length but the fittings were not correct. Male/female fitting issue. Ended up having the the rubber hose with a little of the metal end portion of the new line cut off and sleeved it onto the old metal line with original fittings. No idea why the 68 pressure line is so elusive. Seems like most other years were available. Either way this method worked and back in business. So hope this helps others in the future. I will get a photo of the work soon.
  10. Getting my AC repaired. Looking for a part. Is this the accumulator? Are they hard to find replacements for? Thanks!
  11. That's reassuring to hear. How did it make it past the cam into the oil pan without getting ripped to shreds? Weird! I'm going give it a retrieval shot with the mechanics claw next week and if no luck I probably will just fire it up.
  12. At the moment it's under the valley pan so I worry it getting past cam and into the oil. I feel it might be ok though too. I've got a flexible claw coming this week. I can see it with the camera but the position of it is challenging to get anything to it. I've tried wire, combination of vacuum lines attached to shop vac. Duct tape wont work. Fingers crossed that claw thingy will be able to snag it.
  13. Yeah the bottom part of the rubber grommet for the pcv valve.
  14. Yeah the 430 engine. I borrowed a camera and discovered that the valley pan which is identical to image above actually has the edges pointed down. Also the pan stops about 1/4-3/4" from ends of block. And with camera discovered it managed to roll down and underneath the pan. I can see it but so far cant get anything to snag it. Waiting for my flexible claw to arrive and hopefully that will do. Thanks for the reply! Should have left the darn thing alone!
  15. Replacing vacuum hoses and thought I'd throw in an "easy" pcv grommet as it looked original. Well it was brittle enough that top came off and bottom portion fell into intake hole. I've never had the intake off but does anybody know if the valley pan is sealed against the back of block or is it plausible it fell behind the valley pan and is now resting on the cam? If that's the case, what's the probability of engine damage should I fire up the engine? I've read several forums on other cars where several say they would let it ride and drive it. I could see of it stayed on top of the valley pan that would be ok, but worrisome that it makes it way past the cam. Anybody have the same issue with this? Thanks!
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