1965rivgs

You're killin` me Bill Tom

Thanks for the info Dave. I recall making these cards in a very basic programming class I had over 35 years ago. The part of the process I am in doubt of is what you describe as " accompany the product to its final destination". There is no doubt this was the case as the card is labeled "glove box copy" and "to be shipped with car". My question is why? Thanks for the tips Randall. BTW, I noticed the card is labeled "IBM" on the left margin. I suppose that is why car folks refer to this card as an "IBM Card". Tom Mooney

Looking for a dark blue `64 custom interior in nice shape located in the midwest. Also interested in just parts like a mint steering wheel, etc....or partial interior like a nice rear seat. Would also consider other neutral colors like white or black. Thanks, Tom Mooney

Hope he posts a better scan so I can make a Zerox copy.....Dave, dont shoot the messenger! Now, tell me what the "data card" is for???? Tom

Rocky, that card is commonly called an "IBM Card" and I suspect it was computer generated. I`m not quite sure what the purpose of this card was as I have received mixed and conflicting answers when posing the question to folks who were involved "back in the day". But I believe it was utilized when shipping the car to the dealer. I suspect the card info was based on the original car order and used by the dealer to verify build accuracy. I have also been told it had something to do with warranty but I am not sure how that would play out. One thing is for sure, it is a complete record of exactly how that particular car is built. Be sure to keep it, very nice piece of documentation. Anyway you could scan the card again so it fills a page for printing? Tom Mooney

Darren, if that key works in the ignition and doors then that is the original key code. But your problem is the key does not work in the trunk and you suspect someone has changed the trunk lock, correct? Have a locksmith change the tumblers in your trunk cylinder to match the door and ignition cylinders. He can do so by using the code or by measuring the 6 cuts in your key and arranging the tumblers in the trunk lock cylinder to match. I taught myself to do this and it is not difficult. All that is required is a Curtis key cutter, a code book, a variety of small parts (which I gathered from disassembling extra lock cores from parts cars)...and alot of patience! Tom Mooney

Kooch, did you buy back your old MZ Riv?? Keeping my fingers crossed! Tom

Doing some scans from `93 for Ray`s In-Print series of articles and ran across this neat compilation in the June `93 Bugle. This is a very handy reference to print and keep on hand for car shopping, compiling a window sticker for your baby, or??? Also, submitted by none other than Chris Wolfe....nice. Tom Mooney

Eric, The nylon guides which index onto the seat rail you have pictured slide within the rails or channels of the power unit. Lube those channels and the nylon guides being sure the channels on the power unit are clean and rust free. You can paint the area you have left bare in the pics as this area does not contact the channels in the power unit. Tom Mooney

Hi DrP, Sounds like a wonderful find. What is the original tractor fed printer dealer receipt? Pics of the car and dealer receipt would be great Thanks, Tom Mooney

Very hard option to find Marty. Buick only installed this option in `63 for part of the model year. Of course it was available as a dealer installed option but I have never seen an NOS option package for sale. I have only had this option in the parts stash one time and sold it quite a few years ago. Good news is that if you do find it in a parts car the harness for the twilight sentinel should be independent of the main wiring harness. Good luck! Tom Mooney

Silver custom trim was not available in the `64 Riv (unless this is an SCO car). The headliner should be silver, not black. Missing the fender "Riviera" emblem in the pics, etc, etc...This may very well be a nice car regarding significant considerations like body rust, driveline condition, etc...who can tell a "nice" car from an auction turd from just a few small pics? But if one can put together a laundry list at a glance best to proceed with caution. I dig all the cars no matter condition or modifications but dislike to see folks feel taken by a sight unseen internet purchase. Happy, and cautious shopping, Tom Mooney,

A picture is worth a thousand words Tom Mooney

Buddy, Be very careful when removing the 1/4 inch bolts in the water pump. The Al water pump housing has a tendency to weld to the bolts causing them to break. They also like to weld themselves into the timing cover. I usually give them a sharp rap with a hammer and use heat/heating cooling cycles to free them up. Good luck, wise choice, cheap insurance, Tom Mooney

Hi Dick, I am looking for a `64 Salesman`s Handbook if you have one. Thanks, Tom

If the motor moves the seat back and forth it should raise and lower the seat also. Your problem is either in the trans, cable or the screw mechanism. Tom

Buddy, The small "R" scripts are for the rear end panel. Buick made both a pin style and blade style during the `65 model year. Check your body to determine which you need. Caution!!! If you have the blade style script be sure to save the rectangular barrel clips which the blades are inserted into. The clips are very hard to find! The large "R" scripts are fender scripts. The script with the "open" R is correct for first gen cars. The closed script began in `66 on the non-GS cars. Either style script should insert into the fender holes. Good luck! Tom Mooney

Interested in the `64 Riv cleaner pending pics/condition, thanks, Tom

Hi Jeff, I always love to see an individual like yourself willing to bring life back into a neglected old girl like your Riv. You will find this forum, including myself, very willing to help with answers to your questions. Please consider joining the ROA. I`m very sure you will eventually, if not immediately, consider your decision to join one of the best investments you will make in your journey. Good luck! Looking forward to see your progress! Tom Mooney

Not that this has any bearing on the answer to the question posed but the `65 and `66 BODIES were assembled and painted in different plants. The first gen car bodies were assembled at Fisher body in Flint. I should know this as I own a `66 but I`m unsure...were the `66 bodies assembled in Euclid, Ohio? It should say so on the `66 Fisher body tag. Tom

Optional Tom Mooney

The first step in troubleshooting the source of a vibration is to determine if the vibration exists at rest or under power while moving. In the first post it was stated the engine vibrates while at rest. Why would we ignore that and start guessing at driveline, tire, rear diff, etc...problems when we have confirmed a vibration exists in the rotating assembly at rest? In spite of being under the impression the flexplate was not touched when the trans was removed, inspect it to be sure. Many years ago I had a turbo 400 resealed on my driver GS and it was immediately apparent there was an engine balance problem when I started the car. The owner of the shop swore the flexplate was never touched by the tech..."why would he?" I agreed, but insisted he inspect it to be sure before I left the premises. We put the car on a lift and with the aid of an inspection mirror it was determined the flexplate had mysteriously changed positions on the crank. It was obvious from the tech`s behavior he lacked experience and had lied to the owner while under questioning. My experience is that when the flexplate is installed improperly the vibration is severe enough to shake your molars loose. But I guess it depends on the exact position of the flexplate as to how severe the vibration becomes. Inspect the flexplate and get at the source of the engine vibration first. It is possible you have multiple issues but the engine problem is the easiest and first to be tackled. It should be smooth while taking it up and down thru the RPM range. If not, that vibration can transfer into other components of the driveline and car and become a very expensive and time consuming exercise in frustration....and you`ll inevitably end up back at the engine. Good luck! Tom Mooney

After posting the above another thought popped up regarding Chris. Often, as an ROA member, one will hear a phrase that goes something like "You come to the first meet for the cars, but come back for the people". I may be mistaken and dont want to step on anybody`s toes, but I suspect Chris was the author of this frequently repeated statement of pride in the club...at least he was the first person I heard it from, and he is the person I think of everytime I hear it. Tom

Wow...second untimely death I have received news of today. How sad....I`m shocked. It took quite a few years for me to get to know Chris considering we were both members of the ROA for many years before meeting. About 10 years ago I unearthed a low mileage `66 Jaguar S-Type from a 30 year slumber. Chris helped me with carb kits, etc as he was employed at the time at foreign auto parts supplier. He spent quite a few hours with me on the phone, his knowledge of British cars was as comprehensive as his knowledge of Buicks/Rivieras. I think he was more excited for me than I was about the car! I vividly remember spending half the night in the parking lot of several ROA meets sharing observations and preferences. His knowledge was VERY thorough. He was very kind and courteous, especially toward my son Dylan, who assisted him after a stumble at the Lake Geneva (?) meet, and remembered it for years. RIP Chris Tom Mooney

John, Last time I shipped a diff it WAS a posi. I first encased it in a plastic milk crate and then shrink wrapped it. I was surprised that it worked out very well. Pretty sure it came in around 82lbs. Good luck, Tom Mooney