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About buickbonehead

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    WOT Grand Poobah
  • Birthday 11/30/1961

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  1. Sorry guys! I've been buried with tax season. Now that it is over I can play a little. I have hornbars in stock and ready to go. I also received an email from my metal guy last Monday with pics of CAD renderings of the horn caps. I gotta think we're close on those but I could be wrong. All I can say is please be patient on the horn caps. Rick
  2. You only need three screws to mount the hornbar. Look at the picture in my earlier post. The link for the kit is for a different car but it has most of the parts needed. The two shorter screws are not needed for your application. The largest plastic ring will need to be found elsewhere. If the screws are too short, take the hub to a hardware store and look for the proper length. Also be aware the hub holes may be stripped. You will need all of the parts in the exploded view attached to my earlier post. Rick
  3. I attached an exploded view of the horn guts. There is also a horn contact at about 10:00 in the hub. All of the parts are available on ebay except for the largest plastic ring (the one closest to the hub in the picture). Do a search on a '65 Chevy model horn kit. Here's a link to an auction. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1958-1960-1962-1966-Chevy-Impala-Steering-Wheel-Horn-Contact-Kit-/381107296675?hash=item58bbc3d9a3&vxp=mtr Notice the largest plastic ring is missing. Clarke's Corvair used to have a full kit and they may carry them again. I do plan on making the horn caps again.....at so
  4. It must be ok. The picture of Ed's system in this thread has it mounted that way. He would have said something if he had problems. Rick
  5. They may have changed the design of the compressor since I did my install, but I seem to remember the compressor had to be clocked where both hoses were on top. It makes for a very tall unit to get under the hood. I bought the compressor with the rear exits rather than the side. Rick
  6. All I have is the beadlock ends and barrier hose. I guess its off to ebay with them.
  7. I'm pretty sure I have some hose ends left over from my Vintage Air install. Bill's a buddy of mine from his Houston day's and I'd be glad to help out. I'll try to shoot a picture of what I have and post tonight. Rgeards, Rick Rawls
  8. Buick 425 Identification Buick Engine Identification 1963 - 1975 Look for the code as shown in the top picture in the first link and then decode from the list in the second link. You're looking for the two letter code on the passenger side of the block. It is usually upside down. The example picture is the "MT" marked as "Production Code Number" Rick
  9. I'm guessing the one on the right is the replacement. My guess is the holes on the perimiter are for balancing. The other three are for a larger diameter torque converter.
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