1965rivgs

Just wanted to follow up on this post...the `65 Firestone triple whites were called "Deluxe Champions". For what it`s worth... Tom Mooney

Hi Paul, Thanks for the clarification. So... radial tires on a `65 will result in a point deduction but will not necessarily eliminate the possibility one can win a gold; unless the guy next to you has the correct tires and scores higher? Bottom line seems to be "incorrect" tires costs the participant points. Is that correct? Also wondering whether the "Gran Sport" hubcaps on a standard `65 would be considered a point deduction? Are items which are listed in the Accessories section of the appropriate year parts book considered in BCA judging to be "correct"? Thanks in advance for any input...thanks again Paul, Tom

Dick, I am confused? I went to the BCA website tonight and found the judging guidelines. There is a section on tires which states radial tires were not available until `67 and therefore radials on a `65 is a points deduction? Also, there is a section which states post 47 (?) cars with a genuine Buick accessory is not a deduction, nor does it qualify for extra points? I`m not ever concerned or involved with judging but happened to be testing some adjustments to my browser and decided to visit the BCA site and noticed the judging guidelines. I`ve only visited the site a few times and very quickly glanced over the guidelines so I surely missed something....but I have heard much grumbling about entrants having to run bias ply tires or suffer points deductions. Wasn`t this a big deal a handful of years ago and decided only original equipment type tires would be considered acceptable? Just curious, thanks, Tom

Gord, Tires look awesome. I really like the fact the `65 wheels are charcoal though. When you convert to steel wheels, the Gran Sport wheel covers would look great on your all black Riv and technically be correct for `65. I`m assuming they would be OK with the BCA judges as a `65 accessory but I`m not sure??? Good question for Dick Sweeney. Tom PS I ran a set of `64 cast aluminum wheel covers on an all black `65 GS I had years ago as a driver and they looked awesome. Nothing says "60`s" more than a protruding set of spinners!

Hi Gordon, I was under the impression a `65 8:45 converts to slightly larger than a 215/75 modern radial but not quite as large as a 225?? Is that correct? Is the tire chart you are referencing for post `64 tire sizes? Thanks, Tom

Hi Mike, I know of no factory equipped red line or gold stripe tire in `65. The red lines did become available in `66. In `65`s I have found two tire types, both triple white walls. They were equipped with Goodyear Power Cushions and Firestone (cant recall the tire model at the moment). The combination of white stripes on the Goodyear, which I have here at the house and just measured, is exactly 1 inch. Tom

Blackwall tires were standard equipment. Optional and correct whitewall tires for the `65 were/are 8:45 X 15 triple stripe white walls. There was no oversize tire option for the `65 Riviera as in `63 and `64. The standard tire in `65 equates, in size, to the optional tire for the 2 previous years. Before anyone breaks out the factory brochures and busts my chops realize the tire size formulas were changed from `64 into `65...so, a 7.60 by `64 standards turned into an 8:45 according to the new `65 standards. Sez so on the side walls of my original triple whites. Tom

Thanks...still would like to see a part number from some `63 jack bases, the more the better. Thanks, Tom

Mike, You asked so I`m delivering...IMNSHO nothing looks worse than a first gen Riv that sits high in the tail...ESPECIALLY a Gran Sport. The original cars with the H2 option looked slightly lowered, but level. That is the look that screams GS to me. But who cares, it`s your car, so your preference is really all that matters. Tom

Attached is a Buick engineering drawing regarding jack and handle storage. As can be seen, this drawing was done in April `62 and is specifically for the 4700 model Riviera. This is the way Buick wanted it done. Regarding the type of jack which is "correct", my parts books describe 2 different bases for the jack starting in `64. There were two jack suppliers, Universal Tool and Stamping and Auto Specialties. One had a solid "t" shaped shaft and the other, tubular and triangular. I have confirmed on my own `65`s which is which according to the paper part tags still affixed to the bases. My `63 parts book does not break down the jack into either a complete assembly, or only the base, as the `64 and `65 books do so I cant say definitively that the `63 cars are the same. It is possible if one ordered a jack for a `63 that one of the two jacks might be supplied as the parts books only display one part number for complete assemblies for both `64 and `65, in spite of the fact the bases are broken down into two separate part numbers depending on the shape of the jack shaft.. If someone still has the paper tag part numbers on their base, or colored tape wrapped around the jack shaft, I may be able to take a guess based on the later part numbers. Enjoy, Tom Mooney

I would strongly suggest posting a few pictures of your rims to confirm their original application/features. We should be able to confirm the original application, Tom Mooney

Mark, You should be able to purchase a "hardware kit" which includes this link. The bonus is you will have all new hardware including the brake shoe mounting pins. Have you tried to do some "shopping" at Rockauto.com? Tom Mooney

YES

Brian, If your car was hot while at idle (air flow depends on fan/shroud) and cooled off while underway (plenty of airflow via road speed) I would suspect an air flow problem. But your problem is just the opposite and points to cooling system efficiency/capacity. Under normal circumstances I would suspect a clogged radiator but you have recored same, correct?. Although I recognize a 4 core unit would enable you to run cooler while at a standstill I would expect a new 3 core rad to do an adequate job while underway, even in extreme temps. Confirm your actual temp with a mechanical gauge or another means like a tank top thermometer (probably not possible or very smart when running at a temp close to boiling) or a point and shoot temp gun. Make sure your belts are adjusted properly. Take a good look at your water pump. Be sure the impeller is not slipping on the shaft; granted this is a long shot but I have experienced this twice. Good luck, Tom Mooney

Correct

I have at least a dozen letters which I received from Leonard which I have kept for many years. He and I wrote and spoke many, many times. He was VERY knowledgeable and always more than willing to share and learn....and as Ed has stated, a prolific writer. I still have a price list of parts for sale which I received from him....I come across it occasionally and it is worth a chuckle. His parts were always very reasonably priced and excellent quality. He was an original `65 GS owner! His car was a rather unusual color combo, verde green exterior with a white standard interior, the only one I have ever seen. Presently working on getting my desk top/scanner back in action, when I do I will post some pics. Rest In Peace Leonard...the original "Riviera Man"! Tom

Grounding the seat frame should provide the proper ground. Does the motor run? What does that tell us? The trans should return to a neutral position when the solenoids are not being energized. It sounds like the trans (or less likely the control switch) is causing the trans to stay in the "up and down" mode. Try tapping on the trans housing with a small hammer and a long punch before disassembling the unit. Tom

Ted, I agree with Russ. I have never had a head gasket dilute the crankcase on a Nailhead but it is possible. What concerns me is the noise you heard, and the smoke you noticed, before shutdown. Good luck, Tom Mooney

Paul, What does "noise moved" mean? If you have a valve train noise that is moving this could be an indication the oil pressure is low. Also, if you are running on old fuel often this will cause the valves to stick in the guides and "snap" back against the seats. (sounds like someone is hitting the head with a small hammer). The end result will break rocker arms. Is the fuel COMPLETELY fresh? Was the noise originally a "ticking" high in the motor? Or was the noise more like a hollow knocking lower in the motor? Troubleshooting a noise in the motor is nearly impossible over the internet unless some very specific info is communicated. Having said that, sometimes belts can make a noise one would swear is metallic in nature. Spray some water on the belts to troubleshoot. Sometimes a small exhaust leak at the manifold/cylinder head junction can sound like a noisy/sticking lifter. Remove or short spark plug wires one at a time to find the offending cylinder. The possibilities are unending... One thing stands out to me regarding your post and similar posts I have seen over the years. It is very likely any noise from the motor may be due to wear and the resulting low oil pressure. As an experienced mechanic I would NEVER dilute the engine oil with a light duty penetrant/oil, trans fluid, engine "cleaner", or any other "mechanic in a can" until I was convinced the oil pressure was healthy. And even so, I would much rather live with an annoying lifter and hope it quiets with operation than risk diluting the oil and spinning a bearing/ruining the crankshaft. Has your mechanic checked the oil pressure??? Tom Mooney

Dale, It does not sound like a ground problem. The transmission is stuck in the "up and down" mode. Did you disassemble the trans at some point? Tom Mooney

Mike, The original cap was chromed but until you find the proper replacement, and if an aftermarket will not work, it should be easy enough to find the standard non-chrome cap and paint it silver. At least it will fit and look OEM. Tom

Hi Jim, PM sent Tom Mooney

Hi Gordon, These wheel covers are also correct for `64. Tom

Happy Anniversary George! Now, if I could only remember my wedding anniversary.... Tom Mooney

Yes, that is correct Tom