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About JRRivi64

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  • Birthday December 31

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    So. Cal./L.A. County

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  1. JSGUN, Front and rear are Scarebird setup/brackets. Axle flanges had to be turned down a little and went back on differential. Buick wheels went back on. Just followed instructions and parts list that came from Scarebird. Still have not addressed parking cable as I moved on to other components on frame and started reviewing where to start on body. Palmdale? I'm a stones throw away from Palmdale. Matter of fact had axles turned down in Lancaster.
  2. Geeez...I'm not only jealous of your future workshop and land space, but your pace of working on your Rivi! Throwing in new components, painting this and that...slow down...I'm starting to feel inadequate with my project! Keep up the good work...looking forward to end result. Jeff
  3. Telriv, Thank you for steering gear box info. I did a quick internet search about steering box swaps and searched on this Forum as well. Plenty of info available out there and my brief research indicated successful and improved steering/handling with the replacement ....just a matter of getting correct components. Thanks again, Jeff
  4. Sure....a mulligan is always acceptable from time to time! Be right over with body cart, wire wheels and paint stripper... Steering box is not quick ratio unfortunately. Thanks for continued support and encouragement brotha!!
  5. Here are more pics... The parking brake will have to be customized/modified. Scarebird provides instructions on the process. Now researching rebuilder for engine as well as shop to service transmission......also looking for that genie in a bottle to grant me my three wishes...1.) $ 2.) $$ & 3.) $$$ for this project!!
  6. As for the painting of the control arms, front and rear components etc. I took Eric's (see inserted post) suggestion and followed Mr. Jason Z's very DETAILED write up. The frame was painted with KBS Blacktop chassis paint (satin black), differential and spindles were painted with POR-15 Metal Mask (grey). The KBS and POR-15 paint was easy to apply (brushed on) and appears to be pretty tough so far. The paint used on control arms and smaller components look great, application process took more steps it seemed with the prep, primer, aerosol paint and clear. How durable all the paint is...who knows until it hits the road. All I know for certain is it looks 110% better than when I found it and I don't expect frame/parts to look that bad ever again.
  7. Thank you for comments guys. Here are some larger pics, hopefully better quality...
  8. More progress...slowly but surely. Trying to finish what I started here. These restorations looks sooooooooo much easier on TV......... Since last pics I installed shocks, brake lines and brake hoses to calipers (to Scarebird disc conversion). Coils by Coil Spring Specialties, Monroe shocks via Rock Auto and brake lines via In Line Tube. Drive shaft serviced and painted to look pretty by local shop. Hopefully these pics help someone as far as reference because the build threads and attached pics/info on this Forum have certainly helped me along the way. Go Rams!!
  9. Benny Thanks for posting brake conversion video and pics, very informative. Looking forward to your progress. Jeff
  10. Hey all, Currently performing drum to disc conversion on my 64 Riviera (rear first) and wanted to post my recent experience to save someone else from some frustration and waste of time and money. After pulling axle shafts out, CAREFULLY cutting out old bearing retaining ring and wheel bearing and cleaning everything up I bought "National" brand bearings (Part#88128 RA). I pressed these bearings and retaining rings on to axle shafts (with axle retaining PLATE slipped on FIRST), installed disc brackets, new seals, lubed shaft splines, greased area per manual etc and reinstalled axle shafts. I tightened down the nuts for the axle retaining plates (not torqued to specs of 50lbs. yet) and noticed the axle shafts would not turn or turn very much. After searching the net and this forum I read another member had similar issue but he did not go into specifics. It turns out that although the National brand wheel bearing (Part#88128 RA) fits 1964 Riviera axles, the bearing retaining ring is too wide causing the ring to hit axle tube seal. Since I don't have a torch and too cheap to have some else do the work I CAREFULLY cut out the new wheel bearings and retaining rings from the axle shafts! (Initially I tried to just cut out the retaining ring and save the wheel bearing but it was too time consuming and difficult to keep from damaging wheel bearing-so off they all went). I purchased a NEW set of wheel bearings/retaining rings from Timken (Part#514003) via RockAuto and pressed them on. I reinstalled axle shafts and torqued retaining plate nuts to spec and problem solved! The attached photos show significant difference in size between National brand retaining ring vs. Timken brand ring. I plan to do a separate post regarding drum to disc conversion as I near completion but for now...avoid running into this problem First two pics shows bearing with larger ring with correct (smaller) ring slipped on. Last photo is of new bearing and new smaller ring installed.
  11. Thanks for posting up video link and write up. I've studied that video several times and is very helpful. The front end conversion is straightforward. I've got the rear conversion bracket, I know rear discs may be overkill but I like the uniform look of disc at all four corners. I located my instructions for rear conversion and it's straightforward but I will now need to customize parking brake cables. I'll post up process once I start, I've got rear rotors, shopping around now for machinist to turn down axle flange. Jeff
  12. With a 64 Riviera, what OTHER make/model/year rear brake drum (IF ANY) can be used in place of the 64's? In previous posts I've read other member's opinions/experiences with rear drums from CARS and Kanters. I see OPGI offers rear drums as well but, again I've heard mixed opinions about certain products from OPGI. My experience with CARS has been good and I have yet to purchase anything from Kanters. Availability of original 64 rear drums in good condition is scarce. One of my rear drums appears to be in good condition, the other not so much. Jeff
  13. Thanks for reply and info Ed. Maybe I'll just keep it simple and go with the discs up front and drums in back.
  14. Hey Rocket88 and Ed (and anyone else with conversion experience), I received my conversion brackets and hardware from Scarebird several months ago but have yet to start process to install - just reinstalled front end steering linkages and suspension as well as rear end control arms, springs and differential. 1.) Did you two just do a drum to disc conversion in front or did the rear as well? (I will be doing front and rear conversion.) 2.) If you converted rear drum to disc how did you address issue with parking brake/cables? Are stock parking cables still used on new disc set up or is a custom application necessary? Thanks in advance for any input. Jeff