1965rivgs

Hi Marcis/Dave, Yes, Buick did manufacture `64`s for export and yes they did have the export speedo. Your `64 may very well have been built with a 401, not the standard for the U.S. 425. When you can please post a few pics including pics of the cowl tags, thanks, Tom Mooney

Don, Sure you are already aware of the following, but your pic is a good exercise in identifying differences in early Buick Formula Five wheels. Only the wheel on the upper left is an original `65 wheel (assuming it has the centering ring on the back of the hub, other wise it would be a `64). Notice the difference in the contour on the back side of the rim, the difference in size of the valve stem hole, the different size of the center hole, and the difference in appearance/contour in the lug nut area.... the matched set of 4 are technically correct for `67 1/2 to `70 full size cars, but will work/fit fine on any `65 to `70 full size car, `64 too if the centering ring has been removed. No need to know the codes when one knows the physical differences in the wheels, great pic, Tom Mooney

Ed, Yes, I saw those. Trying to see a pattern develop by also using Jim`s observations. What is the build date of your body? Tom

Jim, It is plausible seat belts were installed at some other point in assembly besides Fisher Body. It could have easily been done without much fuss at any point, even after complete car assembly. I`m sure GM was aware the feds would possibly mandate seat belts as standard equipment in the very near future so it was a feature which may have been in a state of "flux". Seat belt options definitely appear on the Fisher Body plates in `64 and `65. When you see an "X" code on the Fisher Body plates do these cars have either Guidematic, Twilight Sentinel or both? The front end sheetmetal and painting it was not a Fisher Body responsibility. It would not make sense to ship loose, freshly painted sheetmetal from the Fisher facility to Buick assembly. It is very common in original paint GM cars for the front end sheetmetal to be a shade or two off from the rest of the body. This is especially true for heavy metallic colors. That is because the front end was painted in a different location. This is my understanding of the relationship between the Fisher Body plant and Buick assembly in the early to mid-sixties. I`m sure that relationship might vary in other assembly plants where the Fisher function was housed under the same roof as final assembly but it is my understanding the above mentioned procedure was very typical for many GM assembly operations. Tom Mooney

The above is correct if the car was equipped with power windows. If equipped with manual windows there is no forward extension of the full length armrest to accommodate the power window and seat switches. Therefore the power seat switch would be on the seat side panel. Tom Mooney

Fisher used a code for the radio, any radio, because they needed to install a rear seat speaker. The front end sheet metal was assembled and installed at Flint assembly, long after the body had left Fisher Body. Anything dealing with the antenna was done at Flint. Guidematic, Twilight Sentinel and Positraction are not represented by Fisher Body codes. Tom Mooney

The 2 wheels closest to the open garage door are disc brake, deep offset wheels, mid `67 thru `70. The 3 other wheels in the foreground consist of the previously mentioned disc brake, deep offset (mid `67 thru `70) in the middle and drum brake, deep offset on the ends (possibly `64 thru mid `67 depending on center cap opening dimension). The pics of the individual wheels are as Ed has suggested, disc brake, shallow offset wheels, `71 and later, and are not present in the grouping pictures. There are a total of 7 wheels pictured. Wonder which group of 5 wheels the eventual buyer will receive? They wont all fit similarly and will accept different center caps depending on which 5 the seller will group together. Caveat emptor Tom Mooney

TTT, thanks, Tom

Sounds like a cable issue assuming someone has not physically obstructed the heater outlets to obtain a better defrost volume. This was a very typical complaint, very poor defrosting when I was driving first gen cars as regular drivers, Tom Mooney

Email sent regarding Stereo booklet,thanks, Tom

Currently restoring this `66 Century Coronado. The hull is new from the water line down. Replaced the original Century single plank hull with a double plank 5200 no soak bottom. I`m having trouble finding the correct deck vinyl but after the deck is done a couple of days of assembly and it will be finished. Ted, if you would like some info on the mid-sixties Centurys give me a call, I`m very familiar with them. Tom Mooney

Todd, I am a tech and very familiar with your car including the dual quad system. If you are looking for someone to work on your car feel free to give me a call. My contact info is in the Riview or send a PM. I am located 30 miles west of Chicago, Tom Mooney

Thanks for the reply Keiser. I`m afraid getting all the items including the buckets to the midwest from Oregon would blow the budget. Thanks again for the reply....can anyone else in the midwest help? Thanks! Tom

Looking for an excuse to save a rather rusty `68 Chrysler 300 convert from the crusher. I need a nice original bucket seat interior (just front seats would be OK, most likely from a hardtop) or possibly a decent whole parts car. I am located in the midwest. Can anyone help? If so, please send me a PM, Thanks, Tom

The Riviera went from a down flo radiator in `65 to a cross flo radiator for `66. The full size models were already using a cross flo radiator by `65. The Riviera engineering was a step behind the other models in this regard. It doesnt matter which direction the fluid flows thru the cooler but the lines should only fall into place one way, they are not interchangeable. Tom Mooney

Izo, If you want to raise the rear ride height relative to the front a complete set of Moog replacement springs, front and rear, should accomplish that. The Moog replacements for the rear were more suitable for the Electra but because they fit the Riv they were marketed as a replacement. The end result is the ride height will be increased as will the stiffness of the ride quality....if that`s what you want. Hard to imagine anyone will beat the Moog price also. Get the Moog numbers and do a search on Ebay. Sometimes I see spring sets being sold for an unbelievably low price. Good luck Tom Mooney

Bob, If by the "right" side of your car you are referring to the passenger side then the passenger side should have a standard right hand thread. If you have left hand threads on the passenger side chances are someone has swapped a drivers side drum to the passenger side. This is NOT GOOD. I would suggest changing all studs to standard right hand studs. Left hand studs on the left side is overkill for cars, only found in the recent past on heavy duty trucks with "budd" style lug nuts. All the newer wheels are "hub piloted" and are right hand thread all around. No need to use a machine shop to remove and install studs. Just hammer the old studs out and hammer the new studs in. Use a little lube on the shoulder of the new studs and they should go in easily. If you dont like the idea of hammering the studs in (which you should not as it is always done that way in the field with no ill effects) you can pull them in by using some lube on the shoulder and threads and using a lug nut turned backwards with some flat washer to prevent it from bottoming out on the studs. Good luck, Tom Mooney

Hi Paul, Not shopping but out of curiosity I would like to see the engine stamps, both sides, and a pic of the Fisher Body plate. A pic of the rear carb numbers would be most interesting....but again, not interested in this car, just curious, Tom

Thanks for the info from all. After I posted the question I realized I had the information in reference material. The individual year Buick parts books list the appropriate headliner according to trim number. The original headliner in both the standard red and white custom interior was, indeed, white. Thanks again, Tom Mooney

The regulator is engineering overkill, unless you are parallel parking continuously for hours at a time. Eliminating it should not be an issue, Tom Mooney

Paul, I dont generally comment on cars for sale but since the listing has been removed it`s not likely any comments will affect the sale....the mileage was posted as 20K ish and the description implied the car was very original so it is not a stretch for a potential buyer to assume the mileage was accurate. But, I dont think so. Although most of the components appeared to be the original style it was obvious all seating surfaces had been re-upholstered and the interior had seen a substantial degree of weathering. Among other things I noticed the rear trunk lock cover was missing, etc...maybe 120K?? If the original exterior color is black this was a very unusual combination. I dont think I have ever seen an original black car with a Fawn cloth interior. Seems like that might have been a frequent color combo a buyer would have chosen back in the day but I dont recall ever seeing one I knew to be original. Tom Mooney

Steve, check the Chicago Craigs List. There is a `63 Riviera AC condenser that is supposedly new in the box, purchased but never installed, Tom

Sounds like the substance used is acting as both an adhesive and sealer...but I dont think gluing the balancer is an effective strategy unless one is using a sleeve lock like the infamous Locktite green monster. In that case the balancer would be very hard to remove if necessary. Sounds like you and your machinist have a strategy in place...but I would get his recommendation before proceeding. If the balancer passes oil when placed in service at least his input will have been included in the assembly process. Just my 2 cents... Tom

Hi Steve, Do a search on Ebay. Recently I viewed an auction in which the vendor emphasized a factory original fit versus a universal product. Good luck, Tom

This doesnt make much sense to me?? If it is knurled, the only reason I can see a machinist doing something like that is if the balancer was loose on the snout of the crank and wore away some material. That would also explain the lack of a keyway as it would likely be toast after such an occurance. Double check the slot in the balancer to be sure it is OK. The substance could be some sort of adhesive but is likely also a sealer to keep oil from getting between the crank snout and balancer. Better talk to your machinist on this one. Tom Mooney