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About tjthorson

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  • Birthday 08/29/1970

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  1. Thanks for all the feedback everyone. As always you have given great advice - and the car does run *ok* enough now, but I always want to be in a "chase car" when he takes it out, just in case. I do have the single carb manifold and carb ready to try - and if push comes to shove I can always put the original setup back. This car already has been upgraded with a pertronix that I did when I bought it. The factory choke was long gone and the PO had a manual cable running under the dash, so I already converted it to an electric choke and that has been fine. As far as the trans kickdown switch goes - the brittle wires cracked long ago and it hasn't been hooked up this entire time Ive owned the car, so that isn't much of a factor either. Ill post back when I give it a try...
  2. All, I am working on the 64 Riviera that I bought my dad some years ago. As he is getting older, I'm trying to make it more streetable and reliable for him so he can drive it with confidence. I already rebuilt the factory Super Wildcat dual quads when I went through the motor several years back, but they have not been the most reliable and are finicky at best. I have purchase a single 4bbl manifold for the nailhead and plan to replace it with a brand new carter electric choke carb. I will be pulling the dual quads, intake, carbs, etc and leaving it as a set (on a shelf in the garage) to keep it with the car. The engine is all stock, not bored, stock cam. Id like a bit of advice on getting a carb that will work out of the box or be very close. As best as I can tell I should pick the 750, and not the 600. Again - just want it to run and drive nice, not concerned with performance or fuel economy, I'm sure it will be plenty powerful no matter what. Below is the one I *think* I should order. Thoughts???
  3. Im sorry I don't have any pictures of the tank installed, but below is the exact tank I bought for my dad's 64. It clearly doesn't appear to be stock where I put it, but it fit over to the left of the radiator (passenger side) in between the radiator and horn area. I used a zip tie on the top and bottom to secure it. I ran the hose off the top of the radiator, to the front of the vehicle around to the side of the radiator and passed it through there along the radiator support bracket to attach to the bottom of the tank. I then used a standard cap from napa so it would suck the fluid back in when it cools. I keep about 3 inches of coolant in it and made a "fill line" with a sharpie marker. Next time I get over to my dad's house Ill take a picture....
  4. Hopefully whoever is bidding $15000 on that vehicle has done their research and just has excess cash lying around... While it looks like a nice driver - they will be really disappointed to see how much of it has been messed with over the years...
  5. 2000 is fine. Be sure to run some extra zinc in with your oil changes to protect the flat lifters - the new oils don't have enough. thanks to the EPA mandate - many older cars are wiping cams now....
  6. I emailed the seller. You will also notice in his notes that the engine number stamped doesn't match the VIN - he mentions "numbers match" - so I wanted him to just be honest about what he has and what he is selling. Did they make a vinyl/cloth seat in 64 like that? The car certainly looks clean - but definitely not original as far as collectability goes - would make a great cruise night car for sure.
  7. Ed - I will always defer to you on 63-65 Riv stuff - most of my Buick "teeth" were cut on the early 70s stuff. But those, my friend, with all due respect, were definitely Quadrajets.... Or QuadraBogs as we always called them. Going back to doublecheck myself - Im not even sure the second carb linkage is hooked up... Crazy.... Anyway - the big reason it caught my attention is I know the car I got my dad has been toyed with over the years, so Im always looking for some original pics of the linkage, springs, and trans switch on a 64 dual quad to try and get mine back to "correct".
  8. That is interesting that the dual quad car has quadrajets and not carters. And the throttle arm goes to the front carb. My 64 Super Wildcat Riv has carters, and the rod goes to the back carb.....
  9. You should never be using "L" on a Dynaflow unless in a situation such as being stuck in snow or mud. DO NOT SHIFT A DYNAFLOW FROM L TO D WHILE MOVING! That may be why your transmission is destroyed.... Also - be sure to check your radiator - if there was evidence of water in the trans, you may have a leaking trans cooler inside the radiator tank.
  10. Thanks - mine doesn't have one anymore, but Ill check the hoses.... Been a week, fluid still full and clean! Thanks again!
  11. Thanks again for all the help. While I wanted to do the dual master - I ended up just replacing the existing master with a $49 "new" single master. It was definitely leaking out the back - but not into the booster at all. It looks like the PO replaced the booster. I can see where it was leaking down onto the power steering box. The inside of the master was silver and dry. There was a cup with rubber seals that kept the fluid out of the booster. Brakes are all bled and ready to go. Some year Ill do that dual master. This year I did the alternator, power steering pump, PS hoses, timing chain, water pump, front gaskets and seals, fuel pump, radiator recore, hoses, belts and thermostat. Im pretty tapped out on funds....
  12. That would make a lot of sense. Im going to do the research to go ahead and move to a dual chamber master since I prob have to replace it anyway.... Thanks! Ill let you know what I find when I pull the master... I would imagine the fluid contamination ruins the booster as well, correct?
  13. OK - bear in mind, I have been working on cars for over 20 years, but I have a real head scratcher - and Im hoping the Riviera collective might know something that Im missing. I have a 1964 Riviera, 425 dual quad. Factory single chamber master cylinder. Previous owner looks to have replaced front brake hoses, and rear hard lines that are on the axle. I have had all 4 drums off and all 4 wheel cylinders are dry, no moisture on the drums either. The master cylinder keeps emptying - even if not driven. I see no evidence of fluid on the frame anywhere along the brake lines. Hoses are dry. I can fill the master cylinder, check it a week later and its bone dry. Intersting part is - if I fill it, there does not appear to be any air in the system - ever. Brakes all work perfectly when you fill it back up. If I sit and hold the brake pedal - pedal is not spongy and doesn't sink at all. But - here is the weird part.... The rear axle appears to have developed a leak... almost as if its overfull. Its not coming out the pinion seal. Question is - is there any way that brake fluid could be leaking into the axle assembly itself, causing the axle to overflow onto the ground? The brake lines run over the top of the axle and look new.... This is driving me crazy. But Im confused by the rear axle suddenly leaking appearing to be overfull - but the wheel cylinders being dry, and new lines running over the axle and not appearing to be leaking.... Logically I know its going somewhere - anyone ever seen this before???? I wiped down the front crossmember now that I replaced the front main seal to see if maybe under the grease and grime its leaking in the front hard line.... But then I would think I would have spongy brakes, sinking pedal, and obvious puddles on the ground.... Any weird Riviera thing I might be missing?
  14. Exactly correct - that top one is the one I got. The tank seems to fit fine, the bolts all line up, I only had to grind 1/8" or so. Its behind the pulley so no one will see it anyway. Thanks. As long as its OK for a while - I don't mind sending you the old one. If I were to reorder one - I would go to you anyway!
  15. Answered my own question for anyone searching in the future. I used a 4" grinder and "flattened" that opening in the bracket and the pump fit fine.