tjthorson

Hi ROA. We have enjoyed seeing you all over the years when we were able to attend the ROA meets. My dad is getting older, and has moved 35 miles away, so I didnt want him racking up the miles on the riv, and driving that distance without me around to help in case he had an issue with the car, so I got him a newer "toy" for nice days. Unfortunately, we will have to sell the Riviera and send it on to the next steward of it. I listed it here on the AACA site first. If no one here wants it, Ill move onto Facebook marketplace, and finally to the Mecum auction this fall if needed. I am willing to negotiate on the price to keep it in the Riviera family. Its a great driver, with some good modifications, and I have all the original parts included as well. Let me know!

My dad is getting older, and I bought him a newer toy to play with, so Im looking to sell his toy of the last 10 years. This is a running, driving, upgraded 1964 Buick Riviera. Car has won numerous awards at car shows, even "Best of the 60s at a show in a Chevy dealer!" Always gets attention everywhere. All original parts are still either on the car, or included. Engine, trans, rear end, and body all original and match. This is an original Super Wildcat (dual quad) 425 car - which became the Riviera GS in 1965. This is good quality driver. Interior is mostly original and in good shape, floor was entirely sealed with POR15, dynamat, and new carpet. New windshield was installed, all other windows were pulled, polished, and rear window was resealed. Radio is aftermarket "antique style" with USB input. Car is lightly optioned, power windows, power steering, power brakes. Car was originally blue, was repainted white at some point prior to us owning it. Car includes the original dual quad manifold, carbs, and linkage. It also includes the original front drum brakes. For my dad to drive around to be more streetable, I swapped in a single 4 bbl intake with new edelbrock 750 carb and electric choke. I installed a Pertronix electronic ignition. Added a original style passenger side mirror (but was not an official option purchased with the car) I installed a GM B Body front brake disc conversion with GM truck dual reservoir master cylinder and proportioning valve and new brake hoses. Parts replaced all during our ownership. new alternator, water pump, power steering pump, fan clutch, radiator, and front and rear springs, shocks, and most of the front bushings. Car has Buick 15x7 rallye mags most likely off a 70s B Body. Located in the western suburbs of Chicago. Car runs and drives great, but my dad moved 35 miles away to a senior community, and I didn't want him driving this classic tons of miles just to come and visit family. Car has always been stored indoors in the time we have owned it. Frame, floors, trunk pan, etc is all very clean. All chrome and emblems are present. "The bad" - I am always transparent, and these are the things I would want to know when purchasing a classic car. a few bubbles in the paint on the rockers are present. Previous owner did the dark grey paint along the rockers - and it has not changed in the 10+ years we have owned the car. Horn does not work, needs the power distribution block/relay. Turn signals do not cancel. Heater core is bypassed, most likely needs to be replaced. Unknown mileage, odometer does not work, speedometer works fine. speed "buzzer" option does not work. clock does not work. Some holes were drilled in the inner fenders and radiator crossbrace for neon lighting that was present when we bought the car and removed. Ash tray bezel was cut to install oil pressure and temp gauges (under the door). Paint was touched up around the windshield and rear window. Previous owners used silicone to seal the window trim... I had all that removed, windows pulled and resealed, but some of the paint pulled during that process, so it was touched up. Offering it to the Buick community first, if it doesn't sell, you can see it at Mecum this fall. Asking $15,000. Ask if you want any more details. Has a clear Illinois title.

Thanks for all the feedback everyone. As always you have given great advice - and the car does run *ok* enough now, but I always want to be in a "chase car" when he takes it out, just in case. I do have the single carb manifold and carb ready to try - and if push comes to shove I can always put the original setup back. This car already has been upgraded with a pertronix that I did when I bought it. The factory choke was long gone and the PO had a manual cable running under the dash, so I already converted it to an electric choke and that has been fine. As far as the trans kickdown switch goes - the brittle wires cracked long ago and it hasn't been hooked up this entire time Ive owned the car, so that isn't much of a factor either. Ill post back when I give it a try...

All, I am working on the 64 Riviera that I bought my dad some years ago. As he is getting older, I'm trying to make it more streetable and reliable for him so he can drive it with confidence. I already rebuilt the factory Super Wildcat dual quads when I went through the motor several years back, but they have not been the most reliable and are finicky at best. I have purchase a single 4bbl manifold for the nailhead and plan to replace it with a brand new carter electric choke carb. I will be pulling the dual quads, intake, carbs, etc and leaving it as a set (on a shelf in the garage) to keep it with the car. The engine is all stock, not bored, stock cam. Id like a bit of advice on getting a carb that will work out of the box or be very close. As best as I can tell I should pick the 750, and not the 600. Again - just want it to run and drive nice, not concerned with performance or fuel economy, I'm sure it will be plenty powerful no matter what. Below is the one I *think* I should order. Thoughts???

Im sorry I don't have any pictures of the tank installed, but below is the exact tank I bought for my dad's 64. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universal-Radiator-Coolant-Overflow-Bottle-Tank-Reservoir-603-001-/400917659830 It clearly doesn't appear to be stock where I put it, but it fit over to the left of the radiator (passenger side) in between the radiator and horn area. I used a zip tie on the top and bottom to secure it. I ran the hose off the top of the radiator, to the front of the vehicle around to the side of the radiator and passed it through there along the radiator support bracket to attach to the bottom of the tank. I then used a standard cap from napa so it would suck the fluid back in when it cools. I keep about 3 inches of coolant in it and made a "fill line" with a sharpie marker. Next time I get over to my dad's house Ill take a picture....

Hopefully whoever is bidding $15000 on that vehicle has done their research and just has excess cash lying around... While it looks like a nice driver - they will be really disappointed to see how much of it has been messed with over the years...

2000 is fine. Be sure to run some extra zinc in with your oil changes to protect the flat lifters - the new oils don't have enough. thanks to the EPA mandate - many older cars are wiping cams now....

I emailed the seller. You will also notice in his notes that the engine number stamped doesn't match the VIN - he mentions "numbers match" - so I wanted him to just be honest about what he has and what he is selling. Did they make a vinyl/cloth seat in 64 like that? The car certainly looks clean - but definitely not original as far as collectability goes - would make a great cruise night car for sure.

Ed - I will always defer to you on 63-65 Riv stuff - most of my Buick "teeth" were cut on the early 70s stuff. But those, my friend, with all due respect, were definitely Quadrajets.... Or QuadraBogs as we always called them. Going back to doublecheck myself - Im not even sure the second carb linkage is hooked up... Crazy.... Anyway - the big reason it caught my attention is I know the car I got my dad has been toyed with over the years, so Im always looking for some original pics of the linkage, springs, and trans switch on a 64 dual quad to try and get mine back to "correct".

That is interesting that the dual quad car has quadrajets and not carters. And the throttle arm goes to the front carb. My 64 Super Wildcat Riv has carters, and the rod goes to the back carb.....

You should never be using "L" on a Dynaflow unless in a situation such as being stuck in snow or mud. DO NOT SHIFT A DYNAFLOW FROM L TO D WHILE MOVING! That may be why your transmission is destroyed.... Also - be sure to check your radiator - if there was evidence of water in the trans, you may have a leaking trans cooler inside the radiator tank.

Thanks - mine doesn't have one anymore, but Ill check the hoses.... Been a week, fluid still full and clean! Thanks again!

Thanks again for all the help. While I wanted to do the dual master - I ended up just replacing the existing master with a $49 "new" single master. It was definitely leaking out the back - but not into the booster at all. It looks like the PO replaced the booster. I can see where it was leaking down onto the power steering box. The inside of the master was silver and dry. There was a cup with rubber seals that kept the fluid out of the booster. Brakes are all bled and ready to go. Some year Ill do that dual master. This year I did the alternator, power steering pump, PS hoses, timing chain, water pump, front gaskets and seals, fuel pump, radiator recore, hoses, belts and thermostat. Im pretty tapped out on funds....

That would make a lot of sense. Im going to do the research to go ahead and move to a dual chamber master since I prob have to replace it anyway.... Thanks! Ill let you know what I find when I pull the master... I would imagine the fluid contamination ruins the booster as well, correct?

OK - bear in mind, I have been working on cars for over 20 years, but I have a real head scratcher - and Im hoping the Riviera collective might know something that Im missing. I have a 1964 Riviera, 425 dual quad. Factory single chamber master cylinder. Previous owner looks to have replaced front brake hoses, and rear hard lines that are on the axle. I have had all 4 drums off and all 4 wheel cylinders are dry, no moisture on the drums either. The master cylinder keeps emptying - even if not driven. I see no evidence of fluid on the frame anywhere along the brake lines. Hoses are dry. I can fill the master cylinder, check it a week later and its bone dry. Intersting part is - if I fill it, there does not appear to be any air in the system - ever. Brakes all work perfectly when you fill it back up. If I sit and hold the brake pedal - pedal is not spongy and doesn't sink at all. But - here is the weird part.... The rear axle appears to have developed a leak... almost as if its overfull. Its not coming out the pinion seal. Question is - is there any way that brake fluid could be leaking into the axle assembly itself, causing the axle to overflow onto the ground? The brake lines run over the top of the axle and look new.... This is driving me crazy. But Im confused by the rear axle suddenly leaking appearing to be overfull - but the wheel cylinders being dry, and new lines running over the axle and not appearing to be leaking.... Logically I know its going somewhere - anyone ever seen this before???? I wiped down the front crossmember now that I replaced the front main seal to see if maybe under the grease and grime its leaking in the front hard line.... But then I would think I would have spongy brakes, sinking pedal, and obvious puddles on the ground.... Any weird Riviera thing I might be missing?