95Cardinal

Wonderful news,Matt! I'm looking forward to seeing you and the car at Hershey.

Thanks, Lamar! Here it is again:

Look for this 1940 Limited Convertible Sedan at the Detroit Concours on September 23.

@STEVE POLLARDThat's a LOT of oil consumption, more than can be expected due to some smoking at start-up. Glenn (@rocketraider) is correct; follow his advice: "That's a lot in 100 miles. That's a lot in 1000 miles even for a big-block. Read the plugs to see if any are oil fouled. Past that sounds like time for a compression check and valve stem seals. Possibly worn valve guides. A leakdown test would show if there were ring problems but not everyone has a leakdown tester. Try this. On off chance some rings may be sticking from lack of use, change oil and substitute a quart of blue Rislone, Marvel Mystery Oil or even Dexron ATF for a quart of oil. Then drive it. Might free up rings where they can move in their lands as designed." Those plugs (especially 1 & 3) look like they're seeing a lot of oil...

Smoke at startup without any other negative symptoms usually means that your engine needs new valve stem seals. The parts are cheap (typically under $25 for an engine set). Installation requires removal of the rocker arm covers, holding the valve (usually with compressed air or cord) in the fully closed position while loosening the rocker arms , removing the valve spring retainers, valve springs and any remnants of the old seals. Then, you'll need to install the new seals (be sure to use the sleeve to protect the new seals from being cut or nicked during installation), then reinstalling the springs, retainers and rocker arms. Finally, set the valve lash and reinstall the rocker covers.

I agree with Wayne. I had my 1968 GTO ceramic coated about 2 years ago. I use this car as a daily driver from April to November. The ceramic coating sheds dust and dirt just as Wayne described.

That's going to be an awesome car!

Congratulations Matt, and thanks for sharing your story. Great job! Joe

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These are the 2 photos we have of the wheel and the rings. There are 2 flat surfaces that form a right angle. The 3rd surface is a concave curve with a radius of aapproximately 1/4" (or possibly 5/16").

Last Sunday we attended the annual fund-raiser car show for our local Historic Village. The morning weather was not great, but I had registered the 1910 Model 19,so we persevered. Here's a frame from the video my son-in-law took: He used a sepia setting to enhance the period look. My grandchldren really enjoyed the ride...they were quite cozy and dry in the back seat. Me? Not so dry... This was taken later in the day, when the sun finally came out to play. It was a lovely day!

Thanks for the sweet ride-along video. Congratulations, Matt; you made it! Joe

Sorry, I don't have an extra horn. Joe

And Buicks are just Chevies with lock washers!

@Andy J I agree; there's probably something wrong with the starter. Jason IS great, but he's a long way from Mississippi and you would have to check with him to see if he could turn it around quickly enough to meet your 2 week window. BUT, you still might have a bad ground cable and/or starter solenoid. Negative battery post to starter body should have essentially 0 voltage drop. 0.23 volts indicates there is a problem in the ground connection and/or cable. Same with the drop across the solenoid. All the ideas above make sense; tight, new engine, potentially bad solenoid, internal starter issues creating excessive current draw. If you can't check the current draw when cranking, try pulling all the spark plugs and measure the torque required to turn over the engine by hand. In my experience, 30 to 45 lb.ft. of torque should turn over the rotating assembly. If it takes much more than that, the engine might be too tight.

Remember "Baseball, hot dogs, apple pie and Chevrolet "? Well, at Pontiac, they had a rather irreverent version: "Big Macs, heart attacks, pumpkin pie and Pontiacs ".

Chrome won't get you home. If it don't go, Chrome it! If you're not bleeding, you're not working.

Keep the original paint. Get the car wrapped whatever color(s) you desire. It's amazing what color and texture choices are available. A wrap costs a lot less than a paint job and you will preserve the original paint. When you get tired of the wrap, you can change it again.

These cars certainly know how to keep us humble, don't they?

Safe travels and enjoy the show!

I believe the top (first) set are 1947 Lincoln. The second set is for 1947-48 Mercury.

I think you've got a happy engine, Matt! Enjoy the weekend drive.

Like this? That's the 12V battery in my 58 Caballero. Delco 3ED.

That short arm appears to be the same length as my 1933 Pontiac front shocks. As your catalog indicates, those shock bodies were used on many vehicles for a number of years. The internal valve specifications, check valve spring rates and other details are specific to the vehicle usage. I think you will have to find the OEM part number to know exactly which of those vehicles are the correct application.

Excellent news! Congratulations on your uneventful outing!