HH56

There are no premade replacement wires I am aware of. You will need to remove the horn ring, disconnect the bullet type connector below the steering box and pull the wire out from the top. I would suggest tying a string to the bullet connector end and pull it up thru the steering shaft with the wire. When you go to replace the wire there is a narrow channel in the steering box the wire must pass thru for a few inches and having the string tied onto the new wire makes starting and pulling it thru that channel much easier. Just be sure to keep bulk at the bottom end where the knot for the string is tied to a minimum so the wire does not get caught at the entrance to the channel. It might even be good to add a very thin wrap of tape so the string smoothly pulls the wire straight in as it enters. Some suggest using dental floss as the string since that is very strong and very thin so no bulky knots. You can cut the old wire an inch or two below the contact disc and reattach a new wire. Solder and heat shrink would be best but a crimp connector will work since the steering shaft has plenty of room at the top. Just be sure the crimps are proper and tight so the new wire cannot pull out and no errant strands come out of the crimp connector able to touch ground. I would also suggest using 16 ga silicone covered wire similar to this https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Gauge-Silicone-Wire-20ft-16-AWG-Soft-High-Strand-Flexible-Silicone-Wire/132218576414?hash=item1ec8d75e1e:g:Iq8AAOSwlMFZN3uB because of the flexibility and thicker insulation. 16ga was the Packard stock size and the silicone covered wire is similar to the rubber that was the original. I don't remember the length needed but 10' should be plenty and possibly even a 5' length also listed on ebay would work. If you have the usual round connector at the steering box end it can be replaced with a .156 diameter male bullet connector available at most parts stores. If it is a square tab then you may need to reuse the old connector.

Not sure how level the car was when these photos were taken by a fellow who was in the middle of a restoration. I would guess from the position of the short bar lever it was run to the position shown in the manual for an unloaded car. In real life where the lever sits when level is entirely dependent on other factors. The loading of the car and bars is determined primarily by weight such as how many accessories might be installed and which length load arm link assy out of the 4 available is installed in front. Those are the main determining factors on how much assistance the short bars will need to give the long bar to level the car and how much twist the lever will give the short bars in doing it.

In todays legal environment wonder if anyone has run across a cop who would not listen to how something operated and gave a ticket for having faulty lights or not having both lights dim when passing a car. If so it would seem like position 4 is one that should be inoperative at all times and not position 3. Also, having parking lights on when headlights are on is another verboten operation in some if not all states. At least being in the same enclosure maybe the parking lights are not too visible when headlights are on.

The 37 parking lights are inside the headlight enclosure so that is probably what you are seeing when you say headlights are dim in the second position. Definitely there should be head lights on in the third and fourth positions. Packard made some changes in headlight switches during the 36-38 period but as far as I know the wiring on them stayed the same. The foot or "dimmer" switch has been a source of problems for some so you might check its operation and wiring. There was a 36 bulletin on how to rewire the right side to partially change function if the owner desired to have both lights work the same. I believe that change turned them into more or less working like current sealed beams and might have been done to your 37. Of course, in the history of the car others could have done some mods as well which could be doing something strange. If you don't have a wiring diagram you can download the AEA diagram from the PAC site https://www.packardclub.org That diagram is a bit easier to follow than the Packard factory diagrams. Here is an easy to view illustration of the headlight switch showing the terminals with the various wire colors.

That was a Packard thing but maybe others did it too. From discussions on other Packard forums the washers are no longer available and ordinary crush washers are too big in diameter. The washers are a bit harder and overlap the gaskets instead of just fitting around the studs to crush down when forced into the carrier holes and provide more of an oil seal around the studs. I think many have used modern sealants paying particular attention to placing a small bead of sealant directly around the studs so it is forced into the holes when the nuts are tightened and find that works just as well.

I made an adapter for my slide hammer to sort of duplicate the factory tool by buying a short medium grade bolt that was still easy to drill and tap for the thread on my slide hammer. Bolt was about 2" long and the same thread as the axle. I also bought a coupling nut in the same thread. According to the parts manual the 41 120 axle has a 7/8-14 thread which is a common size. McMaster Carr sells items in that thread if it is something not found locally. After the bolt was drilled I threaded the bolt into the coupling nut and the coupling nut on the axle then threaded the hammer on to make a solid assy. One nice thing about the arrangement is as long as the slide hammer is a decent size you can use the length of the slide hammer for some added leverage in holding the axle as you pull it out so it doesn't drag across the inner seal or in guiding it back into the splines at the carrier. If the slide hammer is on the small size you could use a length of all thread for the leverage.

It is normally not necessary to lock the OD out via the knob when selecting reverse as that is done automatically if every thing is working. Sounds as if the OD is being engaged when it should not be but fortunately not being able to select reverse means at least part of the safety interlocks are functional. Reverse lockout was an issue with R9s when there were electrical problems as well as a mechanical cause or two. By all means get the issue fixed as the OD can be damaged if the car does manage to go into reverse when OD is engaged. In 1947 Packard issued a service counselor article detailing the reverse problem as well as a reverse safety switch kit to ensure the solenoid dropped out when reverse was selected just in case an electrical problem was keeping it energized. The switch could be retrofitted to earlier cars if needed. If you don't have a printed copy of Service Counselor Vol 21 #15 dated Aug 15, 1947 you can go to www.packardinfo.com and download it. It is in the service letters, counselors and bulletins section which you can access from the literature page and would be worth your time to read about and correct the underlying issue.

There is an original Packard photo of a convertible coupe front on page 4 of the 42 photo archive at Packardinfo. It is a low res version of one supplied by the Detroit Public Library so I won't post it here. The library will sell high res photos and it may be possible to determine fender welt details on that larger photo. If anyone is interested the Detroit library item is EB01e236. Here is a tiny portion of that photo but you can see the full front version at packardinfo.

Depending on where the break is it might be possible to repair the wire but hard to say not being able to see it. In the drawing above the coil labeled shunt is kind of a hold coil. It helps but does not have the power to pull the plunger and move the pinion by itself. The coil labeled series does the hard work. It is the heavy wire that gets ground thru the motor windings and gives a strong pull to get the plunger to move. As soon as the plunger moves enough to close the copper disc and contacts to start the motor, the closing of those contacts results in voltage from the relay thru the series coil being bypassed around the coil so it is out of the circuit leaving the shunt coil to hold the plunger in.

One other thing. The symptom you mentioned can be the solenoid as the problem but if stock the Customs that used that solenoid will have a safety circuit to prevent the starter from operating once the engine is running. That was just in case the starter switch was out of adjustment or for some reason the switch did not disconnect from the accelerator linkage to prevent operation at full throttle. With the circuit, the small relay in the enclosure that operates the solenoid gets a ground thru the generator windings. If there are brush or generator problems it is possible a good solid ground is absent at times so relay will not pull in and nothing happens when you try to start the car. That was an intermittent but known problem and Packard issued instructions on how to bypass the safety circuit on cars where the owner wanted it done. Basically it involved disconnecting the ground side of the relay from the ARM terminal at the voltage regulator and connecting it to a solid ground.

Far as I know there is no other Autolite solenoid directly interchangeable. Possibly the 6v Delco could be made to work if you can find one but don't know that for fact. I believe Max Merritt also has the solenoids at exchange -- at a price. Hollander has the same type Autolite stater and solenoid assy interchangeable 46 - 52 on the senior engines and according to Hollander a Delco starter might have been a replacement. Here is a bit from an old Motors Manual that gives a bit on how to test the solenoids. It could be water caused the relay contacts to oxidize or the plunger or linkage has some rust which is causing a binding issue. I have also ran into solenoids where a long cranking time caused the plastic bobbin the solenoid coils are wound on to expand and bind the plunger. Because the solenoid series coil goes thru the motor to find ground it relies on good conductivity thru the motor windings for its pull in strength so the motor connections, brushes, etc also need to be in good condition.

Also check the lockout switch on the back of the lockout knob bracket under the dash. If the plastic switch plunger has a groove worn in the end the switch can be right at the edge of turning on or off and vibration can cause it to make or break the connection intermittently. If there is a groove and the serrated lockwasher is still in position, removing the switch and taking out the lockwasher will allow the switch to sit in farther and probably work for many years to come. If the lockwasher has already been removed then I don't know of any repair that will last very long and replacing the switch with one less worn is the option.

There are remote water pumps that could be plumbed in place of the hose but would take some doing as I doubt anything modern will have as large a diameter inlet and outlet as the old radiator hoses being removed. If you need to make a size change you would need to cram any adapters etc in a probably confined space between the radiator outlet and engine inlet and still run hoses to the location of the new pump. A bigger issue is I doubt you would find any pumps for 6v if that is what your car is using. As others have mentioned flow rate thru the radiator is important. I know several have tried removing thermostats in the thinking that the thermostat was restricting flow and they would get better cooling with it removed. As I recall from discussions on other Packard forums that was not the case.

If you don't find good used or someone with an extra Max Merritt lists them but no idea if original or a repro lens. http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000022d~Z5Z5Z56506~P45.00~~~~S59I15383973235120470a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000022D#

Sometimes high humidity conditions and the clutch disc staying in contact with the flywheel and pressure plate during periods of non use will let the friction lining sort of glue itself to the metal so it will not release with the clutch pedal. Often it can be broken free by depressing the clutch, having it in gear and someone rocking the car but other times you might need to work a long thin metal puttyknifc like object up between the disc and metal to separate the two. Many use a block of wood between the dash and pedal to keep the clutch depressed and plates separated during extended storage.

Any chance one of the modern plumbing pipe expansion or flexible joints could be modified or adapted? http://www.flexicraft.com/Metal_Expansion_Joints

If you are trying to restore to stock the 54 Patrician would have had the 359 engine. Motor number on the smooth pad above the starter starts M6xxxxx. The 327 will fit and work but would not be correct if that makes a difference. If you do go for a 327 try for the 9 main instead of the 5 main used in junior cars. That engine would be indistinguishable from a 359 except for motor number. You can easily see which it is by looking at the number of 1/8" pipe plugs present on the main oil gallery running the length of the engine on the passenger side just above the oil pump. There is a plug at each drilled port going to a main bearing.

You might check if LaVine Restorations who bought the Yesterday's Radio plastic repro business has some for your model. Their new website store recently came online and I remember seeing that some dash plastic is again available. https://classiccarreproductions.com

I have yet to find a prewar Packard schematic showing all interior body lights or most accessories. That is probably because so many lights were optional and Packard usually provided option schematics separately with the option installation instructions so they never made it into manuals. The 903 AEA wiring diagram on this site just shows two courtesy lights with two door switches, two dash lights and a switch and a reading light and switch. The courtesy lights and switches are in parallel so both lights operate when either door opens. Unclear if those are in the front or rear door or if the lights are in or outside. Dash lights operate off their switch as does the reading light operate off it's switch. Dash and courtesy are fed off the headlight switch so only works with lights on. The reading light is powered all the time so can be turned on whenever. There is a body feed wire also powered from the same place as the reading light so hot all the time and that would go to any extra interior lights and in postwar cars at least, also fed the rear seat lighters.

It appears that LaVine Restorations finally has their store handling the old Yesterday's Radio products active. https://classiccarreproductions.com/store/ There are some radio buttons listed for sale. https://classiccarreproductions.com/product-category/radio-components/

Wasn't Leonard Williams and Company the importing agency that did modifications or conversions for the UK market? If the car was originally imported into the UK I would think they might have done the work or arranged for the work to be done thru a local coachbuilding firm.

I believe there was also a radio for rear seats in limos. I don't know if those units were the same as front radios or if it was a completely different assy. If you have the head for yours is it similar to the one in the photo or is it perhaps smaller or with a different layout. If not the same perhaps that PA351101 could be a rear unit.

A schematic lists PA351099 and PA351100 as 1940 models so if logic holds your PA351101 is probably also a 40 model with minor changes -- maybe as simple as a different location for mounting hardware for a specific model car or a different connection for the head -- than the two listed. The front of the case appears identical to the standard radio shown in the 1940 Fact book.

The Napa item is an Echlin OD6284 https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHOD6284 currently around $25. It's downside is the extra long mounting stem may need some fabrication and spacers due to the short distance between the accelerator actuator and plunger when mounted in the Packard bracket. You also don't need the extra two terminals on an R9 There is a less expensive 91042 Cole-Hersee switch available from Ebay vendors http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cole-Hersee-91042-SPST-Normally-On-Universal-Push-Button-Switch-10A-12VDC-/252988357868?hash=item3ae747fcec:g:oN8AAOSwtGlZFfEw&vxp=mtr which is more in line with the R9 switch. Cole Hersee lists it as a universal OD kickdown switch in their catalog as well as being able to be used for other functions but I have not tried one to know if or how well it fits the bracket. Downside is it has different terminals and would need a change to the wiring although you might be able to rig up something using a small terminal strip or screws and nuts so you didn't need to modify the original Packard terminals. There is a 91042-05 model listed in the catalog as having screw terminals but on a quick search it seems to be harder to find or may no longer be available.

Which OD or switch do you have? R9s use a two terminal switch and R11s use a 4 terminal. In both cases the switch has a normally closed set of contacts which open when the plunger is depressed to break the ground connection coming from the governor to the relay coil causing the relay to drop out and solenoid to release. In both systems, the ground for the ignition cutout comes from a set of contacts in the solenoid. The difference between the two systems and switches is in the R9 there is a second relay in the box and three sets of contacts in the ign cutout circuit. When the the kickdown switch releases the power relay and solenoid, the power relay dropping out also closes one set of contacts which connects the ground to the coil letting the engine miss and release torque so the solenoid and OD can drop out. The second relay drops out after a few milliseconds to open its contacts and ensure the ground connection to the coil is broken and engine does not stall in case the set of contacts in the solenoid have not opened in time. In the R11, as the first set of contacts on the kickdown switch opens to release the relay, the plunger continues travel to close a second set of contacts on the switch to complete the ign cutout circuit causing the engine to miss and release torque so the OD can drop out. There is no secondary relay or contacts to ensure the engine does not stall. That timing is determined entirely by the action of the R11 solenoid opening its set of contacts and breaking the ground to the ign coil. Possible failure points in the switch is dirty or oxidized contacts, a warped phenolic contact support piece inside the switch resulting in a poor connection in the switch, improper adjustment so it is too far down and the switch plunger and internal slide contact is being forced when the accelerator is pushed to the floor for kickdown and is damaging the switch. The two terminal R9 switch is harder to come by and AFAIK, you will need to find the Packard item or open and clean or repair yours. There is a modern 4 terminal universal replacement switch available at Napa which works well in the R11. Except for having a longer threaded adjustment and mounting stem it looks very much the same as the original pre 51 rectangular R11 switch. It will also work using only the set of contacts nearest the plunger for the R9 but will not look correct.