HH56

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  1. It is normally not necessary to lock the OD out via the knob when selecting reverse as that is done automatically if every thing is working. Sounds as if the OD is being engaged when it should not be but fortunately not being able to select reverse means at least part of the safety interlocks are functional. Reverse lockout was an issue with R9s when there were electrical problems as well as a mechanical cause or two. By all means get the issue fixed as the OD can be damaged if the car does manage to go into reverse when OD is engaged. In 1947 Packard issued a service counselor article detailing the reverse problem as well as a reverse safety switch kit to ensure the solenoid dropped out when reverse was selected just in case an electrical problem was keeping it energized. The switch could be retrofitted to earlier cars if needed. If you don't have a printed copy of Service Counselor Vol 21 #15 dated Aug 15, 1947 you can go to www.packardinfo.com and download it. It is in the service letters, counselors and bulletins section which you can access from the literature page and would be worth your time to read about and correct the underlying issue.
  2. There is an original Packard photo of a convertible coupe front on page 4 of the 42 photo archive at Packardinfo. It is a low res version of one supplied by the Detroit Public Library so I won't post it here. The library will sell high res photos and it may be possible to determine fender welt details on that larger photo. If anyone is interested the Detroit library item is EB01e236. Here is a tiny portion of that photo but you can see the full front version at packardinfo.
  3. Depending on where the break is it might be possible to repair the wire but hard to say not being able to see it. In the drawing above the coil labeled shunt is kind of a hold coil. It helps but does not have the power to pull the plunger and move the pinion by itself. The coil labeled series does the hard work. It is the heavy wire that gets ground thru the motor windings and gives a strong pull to get the plunger to move. As soon as the plunger moves enough to close the copper disc and contacts to start the motor, the closing of those contacts results in voltage from the relay thru the series coil being bypassed around the coil so it is out of the circuit leaving the shunt coil to hold the plunger in.
  4. One other thing. The symptom you mentioned can be the solenoid as the problem but if stock the Customs that used that solenoid will have a safety circuit to prevent the starter from operating once the engine is running. That was just in case the starter switch was out of adjustment or for some reason the switch did not disconnect from the accelerator linkage to prevent operation at full throttle. With the circuit, the small relay in the enclosure that operates the solenoid gets a ground thru the generator windings. If there are brush or generator problems it is possible a good solid ground is absent at times so relay will not pull in and nothing happens when you try to start the car. That was an intermittent but known problem and Packard issued instructions on how to bypass the safety circuit on cars where the owner wanted it done. Basically it involved disconnecting the ground side of the relay from the ARM terminal at the voltage regulator and connecting it to a solid ground.
  5. Far as I know there is no other Autolite solenoid directly interchangeable. Possibly the 6v Delco could be made to work if you can find one but don't know that for fact. I believe Max Merritt also has the solenoids at exchange -- at a price. Hollander has the same type Autolite stater and solenoid assy interchangeable 46 - 52 on the senior engines and according to Hollander a Delco starter might have been a replacement. Here is a bit from an old Motors Manual that gives a bit on how to test the solenoids. It could be water caused the relay contacts to oxidize or the plunger or linkage has some rust which is causing a binding issue. I have also ran into solenoids where a long cranking time caused the plastic bobbin the solenoid coils are wound on to expand and bind the plunger. Because the solenoid series coil goes thru the motor to find ground it relies on good conductivity thru the motor windings for its pull in strength so the motor connections, brushes, etc also need to be in good condition.
  6. Also check the lockout switch on the back of the lockout knob bracket under the dash. If the plastic switch plunger has a groove worn in the end the switch can be right at the edge of turning on or off and vibration can cause it to make or break the connection intermittently. If there is a groove and the serrated lockwasher is still in position, removing the switch and taking out the lockwasher will allow the switch to sit in farther and probably work for many years to come. If the lockwasher has already been removed then I don't know of any repair that will last very long and replacing the switch with one less worn is the option.
  7. There are remote water pumps that could be plumbed in place of the hose but would take some doing as I doubt anything modern will have as large a diameter inlet and outlet as the old radiator hoses being removed. If you need to make a size change you would need to cram any adapters etc in a probably confined space between the radiator outlet and engine inlet and still run hoses to the location of the new pump. A bigger issue is I doubt you would find any pumps for 6v if that is what your car is using. As others have mentioned flow rate thru the radiator is important. I know several have tried removing thermostats in the thinking that the thermostat was restricting flow and they would get better cooling with it removed. As I recall from discussions on other Packard forums that was not the case.
  8. If you don't find good used or someone with an extra Max Merritt lists them but no idea if original or a repro lens. http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000022d~Z5Z5Z56506~P45.00~~~~S59I15383973235120470a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000022D#
  9. Sometimes high humidity conditions and the clutch disc staying in contact with the flywheel and pressure plate during periods of non use will let the friction lining sort of glue itself to the metal so it will not release with the clutch pedal. Often it can be broken free by depressing the clutch, having it in gear and someone rocking the car but other times you might need to work a long thin metal puttyknifc like object up between the disc and metal to separate the two. Many use a block of wood between the dash and pedal to keep the clutch depressed and plates separated during extended storage.
  10. Any chance one of the modern plumbing pipe expansion or flexible joints could be modified or adapted? http://www.flexicraft.com/Metal_Expansion_Joints
  11. If you are trying to restore to stock the 54 Patrician would have had the 359 engine. Motor number on the smooth pad above the starter starts M6xxxxx. The 327 will fit and work but would not be correct if that makes a difference. If you do go for a 327 try for the 9 main instead of the 5 main used in junior cars. That engine would be indistinguishable from a 359 except for motor number. You can easily see which it is by looking at the number of 1/8" pipe plugs present on the main oil gallery running the length of the engine on the passenger side just above the oil pump. There is a plug at each drilled port going to a main bearing.
  12. HH56

    WTB '42 Packard

    You might check if LaVine Restorations who bought the Yesterday's Radio plastic repro business has some for your model. Their new website store recently came online and I remember seeing that some dash plastic is again available. https://classiccarreproductions.com
  13. I have yet to find a prewar Packard schematic showing all interior body lights or most accessories. That is probably because so many lights were optional and Packard usually provided option schematics separately with the option installation instructions so they never made it into manuals. The 903 AEA wiring diagram on this site just shows two courtesy lights with two door switches, two dash lights and a switch and a reading light and switch. The courtesy lights and switches are in parallel so both lights operate when either door opens. Unclear if those are in the front or rear door or if the lights are in or outside. Dash lights operate off their switch as does the reading light operate off it's switch. Dash and courtesy are fed off the headlight switch so only works with lights on. The reading light is powered all the time so can be turned on whenever. There is a body feed wire also powered from the same place as the reading light so hot all the time and that would go to any extra interior lights and in postwar cars at least, also fed the rear seat lighters.
  14. It appears that LaVine Restorations finally has their store handling the old Yesterday's Radio products active. https://classiccarreproductions.com/store/ There are some radio buttons listed for sale. https://classiccarreproductions.com/product-category/radio-components/
  15. Wasn't Leonard Williams and Company the importing agency that did modifications or conversions for the UK market? If the car was originally imported into the UK I would think they might have done the work or arranged for the work to be done thru a local coachbuilding firm.