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HH56

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  1. Since the manual recommends a final warm adjustment of .007 for the intake and .010 for the exhaust on engines with mechanical lifters I would start with having them a bit closer to the final value if doing a preliminary adjustment on a cold engine. A mechanical lifter will have what looks like two hex shaped nuts at the top which are visible below the valve stem while the hydraulic lifter will have a round plunger with a spiral spring affair wrapped around it. There is no adjustment with hydraulic lifters except at initial valve installation or if they have been ground and seats resurfaced
  2. If Napa cannot help then both of the primary Packard vendors, Max Merritt https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000022b~Z5Z5Z51704~P45.00~~~~S5TT0W0ZIH73235120470a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000022B and Kanter Auto https://www.kanter.com/packard/pac-120.html#1 show the 1940 master cylinder repair kits as being available. These are complete kits though so from the sound of what you describe as needing, probably more pieces or expense than you are looking for.
  3. 55 Caribbeans used a seat frame constructed and upholstered much like the other models. 56 Caribbeans used a completely different minimalist frame made of aluminum. It has reversible and removable foam rubber cushions and was exclusive to the Caribbean. Nothing visible interchanges with the 55s. The 56 side cover is a thin sheet of brushed aluminum that has a tab which slides in position to hold the rear to the back of the frame and wraps around the front of frame a couple of inches. Cover is held in place by screws. Drivers side of seat has a carpeted panel in front to hide
  4. There are plastic UV filters over regular incandescent bulbs and they do glow in only a very dim purple which is almost useless for direct illumination. Several have converted to 12v and just changed the bulb to a 12v equivalent and had the dash work fine. The LED bulbs might work well but as long as the filters are intact not sure they would be much better. The biggest problem with the old dash instruments is the fluorescent paint flakes off or, if exposed to years of direct sunlight if the car is sitting outdoors somewhere, just plain gives up. The flaked off paint leaves l
  5. One thing I have seen wired incorrectly is the tail lights. Frequently the wire to the tail lights is connected directly to the tail light terminal on the headlight switch instead of the end terminal on the instrument light switch. Lights work as usual wired that way but rely on the high amp built in headlight switch CB or as Packard called it, the thermostatic relay for protection. Packard modified the lighting circuit in the mid to late 30s to add a lower amp fuse for added protection to the overall lights and particularly the tail lights and wiring. By being attached to the terminal on
  6. The A.E.A. style drawing you can download from the main packard club site is a bit easier to follow than the factory diagram. I can't tell from the factory drawing if any of the extra wires you are looking for might be for the dash reading or speedo pointer lights or maybe for the OD indicator light dimming circuit which was used on the senior models.
  7. I was on the PAC forum earlier today (3/14) and had no problems. Just tried the main site and forum and was able to access everything so again, no problems. MacOS 10.15.3 and both Safari and Firefox browsers work as does iPadOS 13.3.1 and Safari.
  8. Should not be a problem although you need to also check and perhaps change generator brackets or add spacers to ensure belt alignment. Cannot speak directly to 41 models but later years had different brackets because the spacing and distance between the pulley groove and mounting ears on the generators were different between Delco and Autolite. One issue you may come across is the need to change pulleys if the belt size is different between engines the two brands were used on. Not sure if the armature shaft diameter is the same so pulleys can be swapped between Delco and Autoli
  9. Here is the complete schematic showing the factory manual switch installed. If you do not have a factory switch a regular SPDT spring loaded center off switch will work. You need to wire it in by running two wires from the open contact terminals of the manual switch down to the control switch and splicing a connection to the pink and yellow wires. The center common terminal of the new manual switch goes to ground. To use a regular switch, you MUST manually turn the TL on/off switch under the dash to OFF before working the manual switch so the automatic control switch is inactive when the
  10. If you will provide the vehicle number which is stamped on the patent plate under the hood and screwed to the cowl just in front of the driver we can tell you the model and engine that is supposed to be in the car. If that plate is missing or in case the engine has been swapped sometime in the car's life a better indication for engine info is look for the motor number stamped on the block. Number will be just below the head/block parting line and fairly near the distributor. It is usually on a smoothed pad but is occasionally found stamped directly on the rough block. It can be faint and a
  11. Packard published shop manuals for most all models but in my opinion the first Packard published manual covering inline 8s that went into rebuilding procedures with any detail did not happen until after the war. If you want a hard copy, reprints of the 1946-50 service manual are available at the PAC online store or from several ebay vendors. That manual has an engine section which covers the 245 six, 282 eight, and 356 custom eight engines. Most procedures mentioned are similar between engines but when there are differences the 282 is referred to as the Clipper 8 engine in the manual. T
  12. HH56

    Early Packard A/C?

    The war era refrigerant replacement was Methyl Chloride.
  13. I completely agree. Don't have one of the models that used the jack but as soon as I saw the illustration of how the rim jack was used I decided it would never happen. Apparently it was used on other make cars of the era too so I guess there was no such thing as OSHA or whatever alphabet agency covered such things then. I believe many these days just carry the jack for show but use a floor or other type jack to do the actual work. What is even sadder is in the illustration from the service letters showing how to use the jack they reference the owners manual. When I looked in t
  14. There are no premade replacement wires I am aware of. You will need to remove the horn ring, disconnect the bullet type connector below the steering box and pull the wire out from the top. I would suggest tying a string to the bullet connector end and pull it up thru the steering shaft with the wire. When you go to replace the wire there is a narrow channel in the steering box the wire must pass thru for a few inches and having the string tied onto the new wire makes starting and pulling it thru that channel much easier. Just be sure to keep bulk at the bottom end where the knot for the st
  15. Not sure how level the car was when these photos were taken by a fellow who was in the middle of a restoration. I would guess from the position of the short bar lever it was run to the position shown in the manual for an unloaded car. In real life where the lever sits when level is entirely dependent on other factors. The loading of the car and bars is determined primarily by weight such as how many accessories might be installed and which length load arm link assy out of the 4 available is installed in front. Those are the main determining factors on how much assistance the short bars w
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