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HH56

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  1. You might check with Kanter Auto and see if they have any current stock. https://www.kanter.com/p-35856-packard-1940-1950-parts.html#4 Some years ago these were repro'd and they still show as available on their website. Listed in Group # 4.1311 in the Packard parts pages.
  2. Hard to say. The photo of the entire stand from the May, 1945 service counselor looks to me like the bar does not have as much offset as yours does. If I remember the description of the stand assy, the bar also has a leg that sort of makes a T with the bar. Only having the two hooks that go in the valve chamber, the leg forms a third support brace near the bottom of the block to keep it vertical. Can't tell from your photo if there is a provision for that leg. There is a KRW enthusiast site http://www.krwilsontools.com/index.html with a discussion group. Perhaps someone there would be able to provide more information.
  3. HH56

    6 blade fan

    356 uses a fairly large hub and I think you will find the center hole in the 5 blade fan larger than the boss on the hubs used with the smaller engines. Not sure the spacing of the 4 mounting bolts will line up either.
  4. HH56

    6 blade fan

    Does not look like anyone has installed a modern 6 blade on a 37. Packard did offer a heavy duty fan on some postwar models which could be retrofitted back to the 39s and a different fan was offered for 38s but nothing earlier than that. Finding one of the original heavy duty fans would probably be difficult. A few have installed flex fans on various models but the issue with modern fans is the Packard fan pulley has a large diameter boss for the fan center hole but modern fans and those for most other engines have a much smaller hole. Ready made adapters and spacer bores do not seem to come in diameters that come close to those Packard used so anything of that nature needs to be custom. Some have used washers at the mounting bolt holes to space the fan away from the hub but that sort of defeats the purpose of ensuring the fan is absolutely centered. Others have enlarged the fan hole but that too is problematic if a slight error is made. Do not believe spacing to the radiator has so far been an issue but each model does almost require its own engineering particularly if there is any extra fan belts.
  5. Here is a Packard article showing numbers and locations applicable to cars from early 30s thru 1950. Ironically, the only number that could not be removed was the large embossed number (C) but that was used only in the factory and most records that could identify a particular number to a specific car have been lost.
  6. I don't know which years but didn't the Packards that had a remote reading oil level function share the fuel gauge? Believe I read that the operator moved a toggle switch under the dash edge to select which reading was being displayed. The switch was moved when oil level reading was desired and it sent the oil level instead of fuel signal to the gauge which had abbreviated markings as a minimal dual scale for the oil.
  7. Just FYI, this post is several years old and both Craig and Randy have passed away. Craig passed many years ago and other than snippets on internet archives, his Panther website and all that knowledge is no more. Randy only passed a couple of years ago but again, much knowledge was lost. Maybe someone else can help with your link to the articles in question but if not, info may not be forthcoming.
  8. I don't remember the CI volume and several aftermarket mfgs also used the Lehigh compressor so there may have been more than one version. For some internal photos of the 55-56 Packard version go to www.packardinfo.com and then select the Literature Archive from the left menu. After selecting Service, Shop, and Training Manuals, at about the middle of the page that opens will be the 55-56 service manual. You can download AC section II which covers some of the Packard AC components as well as some rebuild instructions including photos of the compressor. Packard did incorporate their own engine mount which also formed the bottom of the compressor crankcase. Other mfgs versions of the compressor had only a flat base which bolted to whatever mount that company used.
  9. Is there enough play in the linkage that you can unscrew the bolt and pull it out so the threaded end is just clear of the cylinder but still leave everything in the linkage the bolt goes thru intact. If so could you then lift or slide the cylinder from under the bolt and then put an extra nut back on the threads just to keep the linkage from separating until you are ready to install the cylinder again. As I recall the pushrod going into the master is held by a single clip at the pedal end. I believe the loop on the return spring also shares the same pin. Undoing the end of the pushrod at the pedal might also help in removing the cylinder so it can all move as a unit
  10. I don't believe the 41 is any different from other immediate prewar or postwar Packards. The master is held to the frame rail by 3 bolts. The linkage is not hard fixed to anything in the master but rather the rounded end of the pushrod just slides inside with the end of the push rod pressing against the end of a recess in the piston. Once you disconnect the tubing, pull the boot free from the groove around the master opening, and remove the bolts the master should be loose and can lift out. When reinstalling just reverse the process but pay attention to the freeplay adjustment to get the recommended value for the model. On most Packards using that type master the freeplay is recommended to be between 1/4"and 1/2". Here is a bit for a 40 model which is virtually the same as the 41.
  11. Since the manual recommends a final warm adjustment of .007 for the intake and .010 for the exhaust on engines with mechanical lifters I would start with having them a bit closer to the final value if doing a preliminary adjustment on a cold engine. A mechanical lifter will have what looks like two hex shaped nuts at the top which are visible below the valve stem while the hydraulic lifter will have a round plunger with a spiral spring affair wrapped around it. There is no adjustment with hydraulic lifters except at initial valve installation or if they have been ground and seats resurfaced after being in service. A special tool is needed to temporarily substitute for the lifter so the valve stem end can be ground to have a specific length clearance to the tool. That value is generally between .030 and .070 which provides the necessary clearance so the lifter is able to compensate once those are back in the tappet. If you want to go to www.packardinfo.com you can freely download a complete 46-50 service manual or just a pertinent section. Since the 288 was new to the line in 48 and served Packard until 54 it is better covered in the engine section of the 51-4 manual which is also available for download. Most 6v alternators available for retrofit need no external regulator since it is all done internally. In that case the original regulators are bypassed and sometimes removed. If you still have the generator and no regulator then you will need to find one but if an alternator has been substituted for the generator then maybe not. Be aware that if your car is an early 48 and has the R9 overdrive there is another black box which looks much like a voltage regulator also on the firewall and positioned a few inches away from the regulator. The regulator will have 3 or possibly 4 wires, the black box R9 relay will have 6. Later 48s with the R11 OD have a relay with 4 wires and is usually silver or natural metal color. Doing a 12v conversion has lots of steps and several components have to be changed or methods added to provide the still needed 6v to those items that cannot be replaced. Instruments, OD solenoid, and radio are a few that need to stay 6v. Light bulbs and the starter solenoid need to be changed and the generator/regulator or alternator will also need to be changed. Heater blower motor needs at the minimum an added resistor or a 12v version found. While a few 6v items will work adequately at 12v there is a considerable amount of stress added to them which frequently results in damage or a shortened life. The starter motor is a prime example. The added speed and torque provided by 12v has resulted in a few broken castings because of the pinion slamming into the end stop.
  12. If Napa cannot help then both of the primary Packard vendors, Max Merritt https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000022b~Z5Z5Z51704~P45.00~~~~S5TT0W0ZIH73235120470a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000022B and Kanter Auto https://www.kanter.com/packard/pac-120.html#1 show the 1940 master cylinder repair kits as being available. These are complete kits though so from the sound of what you describe as needing, probably more pieces or expense than you are looking for.
  13. 55 Caribbeans used a seat frame constructed and upholstered much like the other models. 56 Caribbeans used a completely different minimalist frame made of aluminum. It has reversible and removable foam rubber cushions and was exclusive to the Caribbean. Nothing visible interchanges with the 55s. The 56 side cover is a thin sheet of brushed aluminum that has a tab which slides in position to hold the rear to the back of the frame and wraps around the front of frame a couple of inches. Cover is held in place by screws. Drivers side of seat has a carpeted panel in front to hide the power seat components, passenger side is open with the carpeted floor completely visible under the seat.
  14. There are plastic UV filters over regular incandescent bulbs and they do glow in only a very dim purple which is almost useless for direct illumination. Several have converted to 12v and just changed the bulb to a 12v equivalent and had the dash work fine. The LED bulbs might work well but as long as the filters are intact not sure they would be much better. The biggest problem with the old dash instruments is the fluorescent paint flakes off or, if exposed to years of direct sunlight if the car is sitting outdoors somewhere, just plain gives up. The flaked off paint leaves large gaps where nothing is happening so it makes the instrument hard to read at night or the tired paint doesn't work at all. When that happens many have removed the filters to use the regular yellowish incandescent glow so when illuminated the instrument panels just resemble the earlier and later cars. If someone wanted to restore a dash which is missing the filters that might be when the LEDs would come into good use. There is a fluorescent powder which can be mixed with a clear carrier. That combo closely duplicates the original glow but taking the instruments apart to repaint the needles and lettering in white and then paint over the white with the glow medium is a project and a half -- definitely not for the faint of heart or for those not comfortable doing detail work. http://unitednuclear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=28_45&products_id=1079
  15. One thing I have seen wired incorrectly is the tail lights. Frequently the wire to the tail lights is connected directly to the tail light terminal on the headlight switch instead of the end terminal on the instrument light switch. Lights work as usual wired that way but rely on the high amp built in headlight switch CB or as Packard called it, the thermostatic relay for protection. Packard modified the lighting circuit in the mid to late 30s to add a lower amp fuse for added protection to the overall lights and particularly the tail lights and wiring. By being attached to the terminal on the instrument light switch instead of the headlight switch a problem in that circuit can blow the fuse without affecting the headlights or letting a wire burn due to the large capacity of the headlight breaker..
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