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onthehunt

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About onthehunt

  • Birthday 11/22/1977

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  1. Thanks also for the note about grounding through the starter windings...That's an important point. The Chrysler solenoid arrived today and it bolts up and seems to work perfectly! Only change is that it requires a longer copper strap from the relay terminal to the starter, as the Chrysler unit is clocked differently and sits sideways vs. the Packard's straight up and down orientation. Will post pics when I get it together. The best part was it only cost $63.
  2. I just picked up a cheap "NOS" Chrysler autolite unit for parts...am going to poke around on it to get a better idea of how these work.
  3. Thanks for posting! Its hard to explain my results, but basically I removed the relay assembly from the solenoid and tested only the solenoid coil. If I understand right it has 2 windings - one for pulling the plunger in and another to hold it. The hold coil is powered when the starter motor runs, and the pull-in coil gets power when the starter switch sends voltage to the relay points, closing the points. When I put power to only the wire for the pull-in winding, it hums and barely moves the plunger. If I put 6V across both the wires for the pull-in and hold coils, it works every time. Looking closer I found the relay also has a broken wire on the winding, so it looks like the whole unit is shot. Time to bite the bullet and buy a rebuilt one I guess.
  4. Looks like some water got into the starter solenoid on my 22nd series custom 8. (previous owner pressure washed the engine...not a good idea!!). The custom 8 uses the high torque Autolite starter and a unique solenoid that isn't shared with junior cars. Does anyone know the testing procedure for the coil that retracts the big plunger for the bendix? Mine intermittently works but I suspect it has weak windings. Are there any solenoids that interchange with the Packard unit? I've seen a number of Chrysler solenoids that look identical but the relay box is oriented a little differently. Also 51-52 Packard solenoids look similar, and I wonder if I could adapt one? Kanter lists an exchange service for the correct unit, but these are so hard to find I'd like to get something that can be replaced more easily if it fails in the future...
  5. So sorry, I didn't get any notifications that there had been replies to my post and am just now checking in. Yes, its one of Ron's cars. I also got a 25 Studebaker Duplex, an old power wagon parts truck and a big Minneapolis Moline tractor. I'm in Cincinnati, so they haven't gone too far from home. In fact there are a few other Hackenberger cars that popped up on local Craigslist and Ebay...Seems like most of us overpaid but I think I did ok on the Kaiser. Hopefully when things slow down this fall I can spend some time on the mechanicals. Speaking of Henry Js, there were 4 or 5 at the sale and it was surprising to see what they brought. Several thousand $$ for rusty shells, and I think one in similar condition to my Kaiser brought 8 or 9 thousand. I'll check out the links you all provided, thanks!
  6. Did you ever find a home for this one? Or part it out? I'm looking for a bunch of parts for my '25
  7. I'm new to Kaiser but am excited to get this one running and see what these cars are all about. I'm a little confused as to what I have though. Its titled as a 1951 deluxe and has a 5124 body number. I'm guessing when it was repainted from maroon to green years ago, someone updated the trim. Can anyone tell me what's correct and what isn't? It has the '51 split window and parking lights, but 53-54 bumpers and taillights. Or were any of these features optional on the '51? Does anything else look out of place? The car was purchased in CA in 1981 and stored from then until just recently. There's a note from a former owner to his mechanic in the glovebox. "When you change the oil, please check the back rod bearing - it sounds a little noisy. Also the overdrive doesn't engage, it just freewheels. When you open the hood, use the prop rod in the backseat - its heavy and the springs don't hold it up. When you close the hood hold onto the little latch so it doesn't break". What a thoughtful owner! Judging by the addresses on various receipts and envelopes in the car, It seems that he lost interest shortly after writing that note and sold it to someone in Ohio. I haven't tried to get it running yet - maybe those rod bearings were bad after all and he gave up on the car. Wouldn't that be a surprise!?
  8. wish you were closer, I'd love to have it but am in Ohio.
  9. Hi all, I just came back from the Hackenberger Studebaker auction with a pretty solid 1925 EQ Special Six (titled as a President for some reason). It was partially restored in the 1980s but stored since. Its a Duplex model with a partially complete top, some restored body wood and an engine that appears to be rebuilt. There was a pile of parts inside with some replated trim, running boards, side curtains, etc but unfortunately its missing the fenders, starter, carb, door handles, and some engine bits. There was a sedan at the sale which was full of parts- probably to this car - but I missed out on it. I left a note with the car but the buyer hasn't contacted me yet. Would anyone have a carb, starter, valve cover, cooling fan and pulleys for sale? Also need steering wheel, gauges and linkage. I'd like to at least get it running before deciding how far to go with finishing the car. Any restoration of disassembly photos would be appreciated too. I'm starting out fairly blind, and there aren't many good photos online. I love the sharper body lines of the Special, but am not a fan of the duplex roof. Were the tops commonly removed back in the day, or are they considered a permanent hardtop?
  10. Hello all, I recently came across this dual point Delco-Remy distributor which, if I'm correct, is for 27-30 marmon 8 and possibly some Chandler cars. This unit is old and greasy, but still turns. Rotor and points may be usable. Asking $100 or best offer. 513-314-7620 or email me through the site. Thanks!
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