HH56

The socket pulls out of the tail light housing to replace the tail/signal/brake bulb. For the reverse light bulb it is opposite: the plastic lens is held on by screws and comes off to access the bulb. If the turn signals work, the bulbs are not the issue as the same filament is used for both functions. The clips can hold the socket quite securely so use a small bladed screwdriver to gently work the socket out of the hole. Do it carefully and slowly and pull the socket straight out so the glass on the bulb doesn't hit the housing and break. Brake light switch is on top of the left frame rail sort of hidden below the battery and round vent tube. There is a kind of plastic holder which acts like a plug to connect the individual wire terminals to the switch. That setup can cause problems if one of the terminals pushes out of the plastic so make sure all are in tight and are inserted in the correct places. The layout of the brake switch terminals in one of the drawings in the electrical section of manual may be incorrect and some that have followed that drawing have found it has caused problems before. Here is the correct layout of the switch so verify your wires are connected as shown. If that is all good, the brake light circuit goes thru the turn signal switch. While problems are not as common on the V8 cars as on the earlier Packards, the turn signal switches have been known to have poor connections internally which can cause some no brake light issues.

The stoplight switch can definitely mess up TL and is a frequent source of issues -- but the general symptom is the system does not work at all.. The power for the control switch is opened by the stoplight switch so TL is inactive when brakes are applied. TL usually just completely quits when stoplight switch fails and is not the reason for it being out of level. On 55s with the limit switch and solenoids on the bracket under the car one issue is the bracket can get bent. There have been cases where the bent bracket will move the limit switch out of position so the transverse bars can not actuate it or worse, can even can allow one of the buss bars between the limit switch and solenoids to short to ground and move the system. A bent bracket can result in damage because the limit switch is completely bypassed and sometimes the fuse doesn't blow in time. Some have had issues when a manual override switch is improperly installed with the same results. Others have had issues when one of the solenoids had water damage and plunger stuck so it could not release to stop the motor. Any of those could allow the motor to move the transverse bars past center until they are on opposite sides of the compensator. When that happens, the system is completely confused because electrical is telling it to move a certain way to get to a desired position but mechanically with the bars reversed, the motion is exactly opposite.. For your issue, I would first verify the status of the bracket. Make sure the limit switch is in position so the limit switch lever can be pushed by the transverse bars as the compensator rotates them to the end positions. Verify nothing is touching any of the buss bars. While you are under also verify the position of the transverse bars. Make sure they are as per the diagram with the long bar to passenger side at the rear of the compensator and short bar on drivers side at the front. Am posting a complete electrical diagram showing the contacts and components inside of the STOCK control switch with the bimetal heater time delay setup so you can get a better idea of how things operate. If your switch has been replaced with one of the solid state conversions I have no information on those.

In that era California and several other states used the motor number. Vehicle ID numbers were a secondary choice. As Don said, the engine can be changed so the number changes and causes grief at times. In your case, since you have a title that used the motor number L607328 and if it still has a similar engine and number I would go ahead and use that. If it still has an engine you can verify the number stamped on the drivers side of block -- most likely on a pad above the starter motor and just below the head. If not above the starter, some engines had a smoothed place on the block around the distributor area where the number was stamped. If the engine has been changed and that number is gone or different then it gets complicated. You might be able to convince them the tag is in the welded door (that is the location of the 2651-XXXX Vehicle ID number) but If your luck is anything like mine the inspector or clerk I went to would be the one person at DMV who still knew anything about Packards. There could be a 2651 number on the small Briggs tag and still attached to the firewall on engine side somewhere in the area up high roughly in front of the driver. That tag may not have the same last 4 or 5 digits as the official number since there was often a variation between Briggs numbers and official Packard numbers but it would be a start. If neither is found and If the same engine number can't be used I would try to convince them the engine self destructed and was changed and see if the inspector would assign a new title to the thief proof number.

Most of the Packard posts seems to be at Packardinfo.com these days. Although it is predominately postwar there are quite a few who post there that have prewar cars and questions.

I've had some limited experience with the melted rubber but rubber here mostly dries so may not have been in as poor a condition as yours and the adhesive may not be the same. 3M makes an adhesive removal solvent that works on softening the adhesive in some cases -- but still takes some hand work. I did have some luck with that but it is not the most economical of products if you have a lot to remove. I would try the 3M and also one of the citrus based bug and tar removal products and a plastic scraper before resorting to heat and a wire brush.

You can find specs including socket info for just about any bulb at Donsbulbs http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/t.pl Just type in the number in the search field. If there is no cp rating found for the headlights I would wonder if there was any originally or being such a large floodlight type bulb if they just gave the wattage.

From what I see with a quick glance of bulbs in the parts manual the 22 and 23 series use the same bulbs so that makes me think all the 23rd whether a 49 or 50 are virtually the same electrically. Interesting is the headlights are listed the same for 22-23 in spite of the different wattage between the 22 manual and 23 manual. Don't know if it was a misprint or if they upgraded the bulbs after early production or just consolidated stock for all after the brighter bulbs were introduced.

No info on the backup lamps for 48-50. Those used those chrome things that are almost like small fog lites and there were also a lot of aftermarket assys installed. 53-4 used 1133's at 32cp. I believe 51-2 would probably use the same bulb but don't have definite info on those. Speculation only on original info for headlights. Packard used their own part numbers but on my 47 the bulbs are 4030s. I believe those were what might have been used from 23rd thru 54. Dons bulbs doesn't give cp but does give the specs on those bulbs as 45/35 watts which is slightly more than the wattage in the 47 and 48 manual. It is the same wattage as listed for 23rd thru 54. The dash illumination lights should be 4 on 51-4 clusters and 8 on 48-50s. Don't know how the LEDs would work (or fit) with the UV filters used on the 22-23 series but then I also don't know how many of those clusters still have enough of the luminescent paint on the "Flite-Glo" instruments to work with the UV. There are a few though and some on the packardinfo forum have bought the modern equivalent of luminescent paint to redo their instruments.

I don't know if the exact rubber items are reproduced or the size of those but there are multitudes of different thread protectors available -- but usually made of a vinyl substance these days.. If the vinyl shine isn't too obvious, McMaster has a black piece in various sizes which looks to be identical in shape. If the shine was obvious, some surface scuffing would probably tone it down.

Motors Manual says an AC pump model AH was used on the 40-41 eights and gives the max pressure as 3 3/4psi. None of the pumps used from 35-48 appear to be spec'd over 4 1/2psi. The mechanical pumps are usually not an issue but if you have an electric pump, it is definitely possible to have too much pressure and if so, the excess can unseat the float valve and cause flooding.

Did you replace the cap with an unvented cap or is the air hole clogged? There should be a tiny hole -- approx 1/16" or smaller -- which lets pressure bleed off or allows air in so the pump can pull fuel. Replacing old caps with an aftermarket unvented locking type has been an issue for some on postwar cars and I believe the caps are similar prewar.

The engine ign cutout from the OD circuit should only last for a few sparks. The purpose is to make the engine lose power or torque for an instant so the OD solenoid spring can mechanically retract the plunger. Any longer than three or four cylinders in the firing order and the engine would die because of no spark. It is possible the miss could be caused by an OD wire which is shorting against something and doesn't have a solid ground or a contact which is vibrating but again not closing completely -- or at least not providing enough of a ground lasting long enough to completely kill the spark -- but I would think that unlikely. If you want to completely eliminate the OD as the source, disconnect the OD wire from the coil terminal. If your car has the armored cable, the open terminal will have two wires on it-- one to distributor and the other is the OD cutout signal. You can temporarily remove the OD wire and if the engine still misses you know the OD and associated wiring or contacts is not the cause.

Your 41 should have the R9 OD unit. In that unit there are 3 sets of contacts in the ignition cut out circuit which should prevent the cut out from hanging on more than an instant. At least one of those contacts should be open at all times except for that very brief period. Solenoid drop out and main power relay in combination with the secondary relay transfer time determine the length. I would first investigate why the solenoid is dropping out so you lose OD. It is possible the kickdown switch is misadjusted and commanding the dropout but since it happens at normal speed with the accelerator probably not that far toward the floor and you can't re-engage OD, I would more likely suspect a bad connection or component. For the OD to drop out, it is most likely losing the ground to the relay box. The voltage or the wire between the relay box and the solenoid hold coil terminal 3 is a less likely possibility and it wouldn't hurt to check the actual relay contacts but those are not the most likely cause. If all the connections to relay and solenoid are tight so power is not being lost, some components in the ground circuit with past history of failure worth looking into are the governor and the lockout switch. Worn governor contacts are one suspect but another is the ground connection to the governor contact. That connection is made by a tiny metal jumper on the outside of the governor case bottom. It connects the points via a rivet to one of the screws holding the bottom cover. Moisture has caused corrosion at the rivet connection (also the rivet connecting to the wire pigtail) and a loose bottom screw on that piece of metal is a more frequent cause. If the governor checks out OK, another source of intermittent drop out has been the lockout switch at the end of the knob assy under the dash. The switch plunger is plastic which rides against the metal knob shaft. The plastic has become worn or grooved on some switches to the point it barely makes the switch actuate. Vibration can open the switch causing the OD to intermittently drop out. If that checks OK another source of bad connections on some R9 cars is the harness or the kickdown switch. It your car has a split harness with the black inline connectors located a few feet from the OD unit, those connectors have been known to cause issues. Packard even advised dealers to eliminate them on cars having unexplained OD problems. Kickdown switch adjustment or just a faulty switch is the last remaining link in the ground circuit. If by chance someone has installed the later R11 unit, that ign cutout circuit is greatly simplified. Just the contacts in the solenoid and another in the kickdown switch to complete the circuit. The length of the cutout on those is determined by how fast the solenoid mechanically drops out and when the kickdown switch is relaxed If you don't have one handy, here is the R9 schematic. The ignition cutout starts at term 6 at solenoid, exits terminal 2 at relay box and ends at coil.

Here is a photo posted by 39SixSedanMan on the Packardinfo forum. While the photo was to show a battery disconnect switch you can just see the front of the spring that I think you are asking about. His is a 39 but I expect your 41 will be very similar. My 47 is the same and believe they used that basic arrangement up thru the early 50s. On the 47 the fixed bracket is welded to the floor on the side of the tunnel and the movable bracket is on the center brace of the seat frame. Don't believe there are springs on the seat track other than a small one to keep the latch plate in the adjust notches.

Did Packard build the convertible sedan or were they farmed out or made from something else after a base car was built. Are the trunks about the same size as the other convertibles. Just seems odd if built in house on the same line they would make it a high end model and then pick that detail to have it be different from the others.

Anyone have a 40 fact book. There was detailed info found in the 41 fact book on how those trunks were insulated and flocked and mention of a mat. I posted that bit at packardinfo so perhaps a 40 fact book would say how these were done.

If the car hasn't been dipped or blasted, I'd investigate if there is any sign they used flocking rather than left it metal. Per the service letter mentioned at Packardinfo the flocking seems to have started with 39s and there are plenty of cars showing it was used thru 54.

Since the ebay item is from Southern Calif, no idea if it is the same as those supplied by Quietride out of Stockton. If not, you might also check their offerings for a firewall pad. http://www.quietride.com/catalogpdfs/packard_catalog.pdf It is also a black ABS and has a grain pattern with a thick fiberglass insulation on the back. I installed one of Quietrides in my 47 and fit was decent. No major problems but did have to trim and open a hole or two a tad -- nothing serious. Option holes are all left closed so you will have to cut those open as needed for your specific application. All in all I am quite pleased. It is a bit more glossy than the stock cardboard but is mostly hidden. On mine the lower exposed part is carpeted so the ABS was no big deal. Here is a comparison of the 47 old and repro before all the option holes were done.

Not sure exactly what info you need but here is an illustration from parts manual showing the assy sequence. The large washer like items associated with screws between the spring and metal and between the two metal pieces in center of illustration are insulating washers. If for the plastic emblem removal or install, with your palm push emblem down slightly against the rubber cushion and rotate a small amount so the plastic locking tabs on button line up with openings in ring -- takes maybe a 25-30 degree turn. CCW rotation to remove and CW rotation after the tabs are in the slots to lock emblem in place after install. The rubber cushion may have deteriorated so it could act like the assy is glued in place. Hopefully the paper between rubber cushion and plastic is still there otherwise the paint on back of emblem will most likely be pulled off.

That vehicle looks a bit different than Henneys I remember. Not sure all the changes were done by them but who knows. At any rate with a standard trans and no emergency brake it would be really interesting to know what prevents the car from moving while parked on a hill. Don't think I would trust just leaving it in gear. You do have to register at packardinfo for posting in the forum but I believe the literature section is open -- but it is free to register if you do want to join the discussions. Much more activity for postwar cars over there and all are welcome. Here is the bit from Stude SM on bleeding. Not much different than regular systems except the hydrovac has to be bled via the bleed screw on the end of the hydraulic section first before moving on to the wheel cylinders.

Packard would have had the emergency brake operate the rear shoes via cable and nothing connected to the transmission. Here is a cut from a later parts manual showing a top and side view of the basic layout of both brake systems as was used on regular passenger cars. A bare chassis sent to a coachbuilder should be the same. Essentially the same emergency brake mechanism was operated by a pull out handle under left edge of dash and was almost unchanged from 51-56. Not having any sign of the small triangular opening toward front of rear backing plates for the cable housing anchors or the equalizer setup on X member is most interesting. I don't know how else they would have prevented a standard shift car from moving so no suggestions on that one. Power brakes were introduced in 52 and Packard used the Bendix Treadlevac until production stopped in 56 and not the Hydrovac. The parts manual cut shows that arrangement. If you have the remote operated Hydrovac which would be a separate assy mounted somewhere other than the toe plate at base of pedal, then someone has really special ordered or changed the car. I don't know if the Navy would have done that but suppose it is conceivable the car was equipped with standard brakes and a conversion shop or coachbuilder like Henney could have added the Hydrovac. Don't remember ever reading any Packard info where they used Hydrovacs until the 57 Packard was produced. That was a rebadged Studebaker and Stude did use Hydrovacs. If you do have the Hydrovac and Motors can't help on the bleeding, there is a section in the Stude passenger car manual you can download at packardinfo.com. In the literature section, service, shop and training manuals, item 47 in that category will be the 56 Studebaker shop manual. You can download just the brake section and toward the end is a paragraph or two on how to manual bleed the system. If you have the Treadlevac instead, it bleeds just like a conventional brake system. If the car has been sitting and has a Treadlevac I can't stress enough how important doing or having a quality rebuild of the unit made before putting the car in service. It is not like a conventional master and failure of dried rubber seals and in particular, one rubber covered valve will result in no brakes. Do the pedals on your car go thru the floor and where is the master? 53 Packard standard brakes would have had the master on the L frame rail just behind the steering box.

I have a friend with a stick shift 54 Navy ambulance and it has an emergency brake. I would doubt they were manufactured without them. The handle is only held to the mechanism with a spring which could have broken. Once that spring is disconnected it is very easy for the handle and bracket to be removed. Is there any of the mechanism on the drivers side of firewall near the fender. It would be a large narrow curved bar like assy with a rod running straight down to a bellcrank -- or holes for the handle bracket under the L dash edge almost under the ign key?

Diamondback sells a radial tire which is supposed to be close in dimension and profile to bias so as to be almost undetectable as being a radial. They advertise it as a replacement for 700, 800 and 820-15s of the pre-48 era and is why I used the one size fits all phrase to describe it.

I would be curious what the difference in width or depth is between your old and new tires. I could see a big difference radial vs bias but unless the new 700s are a one size fits all type thing I wouldn't think there should be so much variation in bias tires. I had been leaning towards a certain tire for my 47 but must admit I hadn't considered the spare tire well as an issue. The tire I was thinking about is sort of a one size fits several replacement so based on your experience the idea of using that tire may need a rethink.

Another poster needed a new tank for his 49 and resorted to modifying one made for a Chevy. So far what he has done looks promising and it appears the mods will be well hidden. The size would work if your car has the smaller tank offered in those series but is a couple of gallons short of the 20 gallons used on other models. Obviously not for a 100 point car but maybe something to consider as an option if you can't find the real thing and start getting to the point of desperation. http://www.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=2251&start=140#p14080