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Everything posted by HH56

  1. Since the manual recommends a final warm adjustment of .007 for the intake and .010 for the exhaust on engines with mechanical lifters I would start with having them a bit closer to the final value if doing a preliminary adjustment on a cold engine. A mechanical lifter will have what looks like two hex shaped nuts at the top which are visible below the valve stem while the hydraulic lifter will have a round plunger with a spiral spring affair wrapped around it. There is no adjustment with hydraulic lifters except at initial valve installation or if they have been ground and seats resurfaced after being in service. A special tool is needed to temporarily substitute for the lifter so the valve stem end can be ground to have a specific length clearance to the tool. That value is generally between .030 and .070 which provides the necessary clearance so the lifter is able to compensate once those are back in the tappet. If you want to go to www.packardinfo.com you can freely download a complete 46-50 service manual or just a pertinent section. Since the 288 was new to the line in 48 and served Packard until 54 it is better covered in the engine section of the 51-4 manual which is also available for download. Most 6v alternators available for retrofit need no external regulator since it is all done internally. In that case the original regulators are bypassed and sometimes removed. If you still have the generator and no regulator then you will need to find one but if an alternator has been substituted for the generator then maybe not. Be aware that if your car is an early 48 and has the R9 overdrive there is another black box which looks much like a voltage regulator also on the firewall and positioned a few inches away from the regulator. The regulator will have 3 or possibly 4 wires, the black box R9 relay will have 6. Later 48s with the R11 OD have a relay with 4 wires and is usually silver or natural metal color. Doing a 12v conversion has lots of steps and several components have to be changed or methods added to provide the still needed 6v to those items that cannot be replaced. Instruments, OD solenoid, and radio are a few that need to stay 6v. Light bulbs and the starter solenoid need to be changed and the generator/regulator or alternator will also need to be changed. Heater blower motor needs at the minimum an added resistor or a 12v version found. While a few 6v items will work adequately at 12v there is a considerable amount of stress added to them which frequently results in damage or a shortened life. The starter motor is a prime example. The added speed and torque provided by 12v has resulted in a few broken castings because of the pinion slamming into the end stop.
  2. If Napa cannot help then both of the primary Packard vendors, Max Merritt https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000022b~Z5Z5Z51704~P45.00~~~~S5TT0W0ZIH73235120470a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000022B and Kanter Auto https://www.kanter.com/packard/pac-120.html#1 show the 1940 master cylinder repair kits as being available. These are complete kits though so from the sound of what you describe as needing, probably more pieces or expense than you are looking for.
  3. 55 Caribbeans used a seat frame constructed and upholstered much like the other models. 56 Caribbeans used a completely different minimalist frame made of aluminum. It has reversible and removable foam rubber cushions and was exclusive to the Caribbean. Nothing visible interchanges with the 55s. The 56 side cover is a thin sheet of brushed aluminum that has a tab which slides in position to hold the rear to the back of the frame and wraps around the front of frame a couple of inches. Cover is held in place by screws. Drivers side of seat has a carpeted panel in front to hide the power seat components, passenger side is open with the carpeted floor completely visible under the seat.
  4. There are plastic UV filters over regular incandescent bulbs and they do glow in only a very dim purple which is almost useless for direct illumination. Several have converted to 12v and just changed the bulb to a 12v equivalent and had the dash work fine. The LED bulbs might work well but as long as the filters are intact not sure they would be much better. The biggest problem with the old dash instruments is the fluorescent paint flakes off or, if exposed to years of direct sunlight if the car is sitting outdoors somewhere, just plain gives up. The flaked off paint leaves large gaps where nothing is happening so it makes the instrument hard to read at night or the tired paint doesn't work at all. When that happens many have removed the filters to use the regular yellowish incandescent glow so when illuminated the instrument panels just resemble the earlier and later cars. If someone wanted to restore a dash which is missing the filters that might be when the LEDs would come into good use. There is a fluorescent powder which can be mixed with a clear carrier. That combo closely duplicates the original glow but taking the instruments apart to repaint the needles and lettering in white and then paint over the white with the glow medium is a project and a half -- definitely not for the faint of heart or for those not comfortable doing detail work. http://unitednuclear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=28_45&products_id=1079
  5. One thing I have seen wired incorrectly is the tail lights. Frequently the wire to the tail lights is connected directly to the tail light terminal on the headlight switch instead of the end terminal on the instrument light switch. Lights work as usual wired that way but rely on the high amp built in headlight switch CB or as Packard called it, the thermostatic relay for protection. Packard modified the lighting circuit in the mid to late 30s to add a lower amp fuse for added protection to the overall lights and particularly the tail lights and wiring. By being attached to the terminal on the instrument light switch instead of the headlight switch a problem in that circuit can blow the fuse without affecting the headlights or letting a wire burn due to the large capacity of the headlight breaker..
  6. The A.E.A. style drawing you can download from the main packard club site is a bit easier to follow than the factory diagram. I can't tell from the factory drawing if any of the extra wires you are looking for might be for the dash reading or speedo pointer lights or maybe for the OD indicator light dimming circuit which was used on the senior models.
  7. I was on the PAC forum earlier today (3/14) and had no problems. Just tried the main site and forum and was able to access everything so again, no problems. MacOS 10.15.3 and both Safari and Firefox browsers work as does iPadOS 13.3.1 and Safari.
  8. Should not be a problem although you need to also check and perhaps change generator brackets or add spacers to ensure belt alignment. Cannot speak directly to 41 models but later years had different brackets because the spacing and distance between the pulley groove and mounting ears on the generators were different between Delco and Autolite. One issue you may come across is the need to change pulleys if the belt size is different between engines the two brands were used on. Not sure if the armature shaft diameter is the same so pulleys can be swapped between Delco and Autolite. That could become a more substantial problem if you need to find a pulley. I ran into that scenario on a later generator which needed a pulley for a wide belt used on 356 engines.
  9. Here is the complete schematic showing the factory manual switch installed. If you do not have a factory switch a regular SPDT spring loaded center off switch will work. You need to wire it in by running two wires from the open contact terminals of the manual switch down to the control switch and splicing a connection to the pink and yellow wires. The center common terminal of the new manual switch goes to ground. To use a regular switch, you MUST manually turn the TL on/off switch under the dash to OFF before working the manual switch so the automatic control switch is inactive when the manual switch is used. Failing to turn it off will mean both switches will be in the circuit and as soon as you try moving one direction manually, after the time delay the automatic switch will move the car back. If you have the manual switch energized longer than the time delay both will be on at the same time resulting in the motor wanting to go both directions at once and blowing the fuse. The manual switch duplicates operation of the control switch by grounding the wire going from the control switch to the limit switch. That ground passes thru the limit switch and on to the solenoids to move the car. The factory switch is not spring loaded so by moving it to either the up or down position. it will stay energized and the limit switches will open at the maximum travel limit to stop the action. The factory switch also disconnects the power feeding the control switch while it is being used so the two switches cannot both be in operation at the same time. Without that disconnect function you must be the one to ensure they cannot operate at the same time.
  10. If you will provide the vehicle number which is stamped on the patent plate under the hood and screwed to the cowl just in front of the driver we can tell you the model and engine that is supposed to be in the car. If that plate is missing or in case the engine has been swapped sometime in the car's life a better indication for engine info is look for the motor number stamped on the block. Number will be just below the head/block parting line and fairly near the distributor. It is usually on a smoothed pad but is occasionally found stamped directly on the rough block. It can be faint and also sometimes covered with dirt and grease so you may need to clean the area and look carefully to find it. Here are the numbers for the 21st series 46-47 engines. If yours does not start with an F it is from another year and not the original engine.
  11. Packard published shop manuals for most all models but in my opinion the first Packard published manual covering inline 8s that went into rebuilding procedures with any detail did not happen until after the war. If you want a hard copy, reprints of the 1946-50 service manual are available at the PAC online store or from several ebay vendors. That manual has an engine section which covers the 245 six, 282 eight, and 356 custom eight engines. Most procedures mentioned are similar between engines but when there are differences the 282 is referred to as the Clipper 8 engine in the manual. The later 51-54 manual covers the 288/327 blocks used on engines from 48 on which replaced the 282. The blocks are a bit different from the older block but the basic procedures carried over so might be worth checking out. If you can get by with a downloaded copy go to www.packardinfo.com and when the page opens, select Service, Shop and Training manuals. Item 29 is the 46-50 service manual and when you click to open that selection a page will open showing the individual manual sections. Section V -- engines -- can be downloaded by itself since you don't need the entire manual. The 51-4 manual engine section is also available for download.
  12. HH56

    Early Packard A/C?

    The war era refrigerant replacement was Methyl Chloride.
  13. I completely agree. Don't have one of the models that used the jack but as soon as I saw the illustration of how the rim jack was used I decided it would never happen. Apparently it was used on other make cars of the era too so I guess there was no such thing as OSHA or whatever alphabet agency covered such things then. I believe many these days just carry the jack for show but use a floor or other type jack to do the actual work. What is even sadder is in the illustration from the service letters showing how to use the jack they reference the owners manual. When I looked in the 40 and 41 110-120 repro owners manuals I did not see a mention of the procedure the letter wanted a driver to reference. It looks to me like there is a jack stand used along with the jack so wonder how many of those are still in the car along with the jack. Your jack appears to be a bit different from the one in the illustration so not sure which is the better or if such a thing, a safer version.
  14. There are no premade replacement wires I am aware of. You will need to remove the horn ring, disconnect the bullet type connector below the steering box and pull the wire out from the top. I would suggest tying a string to the bullet connector end and pull it up thru the steering shaft with the wire. When you go to replace the wire there is a narrow channel in the steering box the wire must pass thru for a few inches and having the string tied onto the new wire makes starting and pulling it thru that channel much easier. Just be sure to keep bulk at the bottom end where the knot for the string is tied to a minimum so the wire does not get caught at the entrance to the channel. It might even be good to add a very thin wrap of tape so the string smoothly pulls the wire straight in as it enters. Some suggest using dental floss as the string since that is very strong and very thin so no bulky knots. You can cut the old wire an inch or two below the contact disc and reattach a new wire. Solder and heat shrink would be best but a crimp connector will work since the steering shaft has plenty of room at the top. Just be sure the crimps are proper and tight so the new wire cannot pull out and no errant strands come out of the crimp connector able to touch ground. I would also suggest using 16 ga silicone covered wire similar to this https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Gauge-Silicone-Wire-20ft-16-AWG-Soft-High-Strand-Flexible-Silicone-Wire/132218576414?hash=item1ec8d75e1e:g:Iq8AAOSwlMFZN3uB because of the flexibility and thicker insulation. 16ga was the Packard stock size and the silicone covered wire is similar to the rubber that was the original. I don't remember the length needed but 10' should be plenty and possibly even a 5' length also listed on ebay would work. If you have the usual round connector at the steering box end it can be replaced with a .156 diameter male bullet connector available at most parts stores. If it is a square tab then you may need to reuse the old connector.
  15. Not sure how level the car was when these photos were taken by a fellow who was in the middle of a restoration. I would guess from the position of the short bar lever it was run to the position shown in the manual for an unloaded car. In real life where the lever sits when level is entirely dependent on other factors. The loading of the car and bars is determined primarily by weight such as how many accessories might be installed and which length load arm link assy out of the 4 available is installed in front. Those are the main determining factors on how much assistance the short bars will need to give the long bar to level the car and how much twist the lever will give the short bars in doing it.
  16. In todays legal environment wonder if anyone has run across a cop who would not listen to how something operated and gave a ticket for having faulty lights or not having both lights dim when passing a car. If so it would seem like position 4 is one that should be inoperative at all times and not position 3. Also, having parking lights on when headlights are on is another verboten operation in some if not all states. At least being in the same enclosure maybe the parking lights are not too visible when headlights are on.
  17. The 37 parking lights are inside the headlight enclosure so that is probably what you are seeing when you say headlights are dim in the second position. Definitely there should be head lights on in the third and fourth positions. Packard made some changes in headlight switches during the 36-38 period but as far as I know the wiring on them stayed the same. The foot or "dimmer" switch has been a source of problems for some so you might check its operation and wiring. There was a 36 bulletin on how to rewire the right side to partially change function if the owner desired to have both lights work the same. I believe that change turned them into more or less working like current sealed beams and might have been done to your 37. Of course, in the history of the car others could have done some mods as well which could be doing something strange. If you don't have a wiring diagram you can download the AEA diagram from the PAC site https://www.packardclub.org That diagram is a bit easier to follow than the Packard factory diagrams. Here is an easy to view illustration of the headlight switch showing the terminals with the various wire colors.
  18. That was a Packard thing but maybe others did it too. From discussions on other Packard forums the washers are no longer available and ordinary crush washers are too big in diameter. The washers are a bit harder and overlap the gaskets instead of just fitting around the studs to crush down when forced into the carrier holes and provide more of an oil seal around the studs. I think many have used modern sealants paying particular attention to placing a small bead of sealant directly around the studs so it is forced into the holes when the nuts are tightened and find that works just as well.
  19. I made an adapter for my slide hammer to sort of duplicate the factory tool by buying a short medium grade bolt that was still easy to drill and tap for the thread on my slide hammer. Bolt was about 2" long and the same thread as the axle. I also bought a coupling nut in the same thread. According to the parts manual the 41 120 axle has a 7/8-14 thread which is a common size. McMaster Carr sells items in that thread if it is something not found locally. After the bolt was drilled I threaded the bolt into the coupling nut and the coupling nut on the axle then threaded the hammer on to make a solid assy. One nice thing about the arrangement is as long as the slide hammer is a decent size you can use the length of the slide hammer for some added leverage in holding the axle as you pull it out so it doesn't drag across the inner seal or in guiding it back into the splines at the carrier. If the slide hammer is on the small size you could use a length of all thread for the leverage.
  20. It is normally not necessary to lock the OD out via the knob when selecting reverse as that is done automatically if every thing is working. Sounds as if the OD is being engaged when it should not be but fortunately not being able to select reverse means at least part of the safety interlocks are functional. Reverse lockout was an issue with R9s when there were electrical problems as well as a mechanical cause or two. By all means get the issue fixed as the OD can be damaged if the car does manage to go into reverse when OD is engaged. In 1947 Packard issued a service counselor article detailing the reverse problem as well as a reverse safety switch kit to ensure the solenoid dropped out when reverse was selected just in case an electrical problem was keeping it energized. The switch could be retrofitted to earlier cars if needed. If you don't have a printed copy of Service Counselor Vol 21 #15 dated Aug 15, 1947 you can go to www.packardinfo.com and download it. It is in the service letters, counselors and bulletins section which you can access from the literature page and would be worth your time to read about and correct the underlying issue.
  21. There is an original Packard photo of a convertible coupe front on page 4 of the 42 photo archive at Packardinfo. It is a low res version of one supplied by the Detroit Public Library so I won't post it here. The library will sell high res photos and it may be possible to determine fender welt details on that larger photo. If anyone is interested the Detroit library item is EB01e236. Here is a tiny portion of that photo but you can see the full front version at packardinfo.
  22. Depending on where the break is it might be possible to repair the wire but hard to say not being able to see it. In the drawing above the coil labeled shunt is kind of a hold coil. It helps but does not have the power to pull the plunger and move the pinion by itself. The coil labeled series does the hard work. It is the heavy wire that gets ground thru the motor windings and gives a strong pull to get the plunger to move. As soon as the plunger moves enough to close the copper disc and contacts to start the motor, the closing of those contacts results in voltage from the relay thru the series coil being bypassed around the coil so it is out of the circuit leaving the shunt coil to hold the plunger in.
  23. One other thing. The symptom you mentioned can be the solenoid as the problem but if stock the Customs that used that solenoid will have a safety circuit to prevent the starter from operating once the engine is running. That was just in case the starter switch was out of adjustment or for some reason the switch did not disconnect from the accelerator linkage to prevent operation at full throttle. With the circuit, the small relay in the enclosure that operates the solenoid gets a ground thru the generator windings. If there are brush or generator problems it is possible a good solid ground is absent at times so relay will not pull in and nothing happens when you try to start the car. That was an intermittent but known problem and Packard issued instructions on how to bypass the safety circuit on cars where the owner wanted it done. Basically it involved disconnecting the ground side of the relay from the ARM terminal at the voltage regulator and connecting it to a solid ground.
  24. Far as I know there is no other Autolite solenoid directly interchangeable. Possibly the 6v Delco could be made to work if you can find one but don't know that for fact. I believe Max Merritt also has the solenoids at exchange -- at a price. Hollander has the same type Autolite stater and solenoid assy interchangeable 46 - 52 on the senior engines and according to Hollander a Delco starter might have been a replacement. Here is a bit from an old Motors Manual that gives a bit on how to test the solenoids. It could be water caused the relay contacts to oxidize or the plunger or linkage has some rust which is causing a binding issue. I have also ran into solenoids where a long cranking time caused the plastic bobbin the solenoid coils are wound on to expand and bind the plunger. Because the solenoid series coil goes thru the motor to find ground it relies on good conductivity thru the motor windings for its pull in strength so the motor connections, brushes, etc also need to be in good condition.
  25. Also check the lockout switch on the back of the lockout knob bracket under the dash. If the plastic switch plunger has a groove worn in the end the switch can be right at the edge of turning on or off and vibration can cause it to make or break the connection intermittently. If there is a groove and the serrated lockwasher is still in position, removing the switch and taking out the lockwasher will allow the switch to sit in farther and probably work for many years to come. If the lockwasher has already been removed then I don't know of any repair that will last very long and replacing the switch with one less worn is the option.
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