abelincoln

Looks like you have upgraded a couple wires already. Perhaps its time to get a new auto parts store fuse holder? Worn or poor wires are a frequent OD headache.

Can be a variety of causes, some are serious, something worn or loose. The V-12 is 75 degree, odd fire between banks so you'll have some vibration, but most don't notice. Some of the Ford folks take a Chevy 6" harmonic rubber mounted balancer, ream out the center to fit Ford or Lincoln crank. Probably need to have a machine shop make a custom collar and spacer to mount the pulley and mount a new fan unless use electric fans. Ask on FordBarn or other flathead sites Abe

If you can't find Skip, Philbin Manufacturing in Portland, OR, AKA "Flathead Doctor" fixes V-12 coils and distributors. .They fixed my distributor. You could also try replacing coils with a plate and use external coils. Philbin also has a kit to replace points with solid state. Abe

Slowly getting lights working, but lack a turn signal switch. Chris Herrel has a listing, but wants the old part back. Anyone have a spare they are not likely to need or have a lead? Wiling to pay. Thanks Abe

On our 48, you have to get really uncomfortable and lay on your head, reach up behind the dash and unscrew by hand the retaining cap from where the cable goes into the speedo. You can then pull the cable down and pull out the inner cable, might be easier if the lower end is also disconnected. I suspect yours is similar. Sometimes there is wear in the speedometer itself. and you'll need to locate an instrument repair specialist. Abe

Tom thanks. The Herrel diagram is easier to decipher than the one in the service manual. Although, someone with lots of patience should make a clean CAD version as the printing is tough to read. It appears that there are two no. 12 wires from the circuit breaker to the light switch. One of mine is disconnected and checks out as an open circuit. My theory is that the headlights have a separate source from the tail and dash lights, so I can wire around the open circuit with an aftermarket switch.

Been fooling with the light switch as the lights do not seem to work correctly. I notice the Ford switch has four terminals, one for power from circuit breaker, one feed to headlights via fog light switch and dimmer switch, one feed for tail and dash lights, and one feed for tail lights. Lincoln has 5 terminals. The extra has a no. 12 wire attached. What is this wire for? Thanks Abe

My understanding is that later 60's and 70's models used 15 inch wheels. Might be able to find some with Lincoln wheel covers, and also find whitewall radials if desired. Should be able to find something with similar outside diameter. Try the Coker or Diamond Back online catalogs.

Larry: I drilled holes in each side of the lift using the original for a template. Then I added two short pieces of 1/8 X 1 inch bar (not shown) to meet the holes in the window frame bottom. This also gives a couple chances to make adjustments if needed. Abe

Been too cold to do much, but I figured that should the 48 LC ever runs, it will need windows that will go up. I couldn't make the hydraulic pump work no matter what I did. All the lines were full of crusty brake fluid from sitting 50 years. So I ordered a pair of electric windows from speedway. Had to make a frame that approximated the original but with mounting for the new opener. I was planning to use the stock switches with four relays, but the switches feel sloppy and have high resistance, so I used the Speedway switches that came with the kit Takes about 9 seconds to cycle up and down. Also need a 6-12 upverter or a 12 volt battery.

I had a similar problem. I installed a Melling high volume pump, and the oil pickup I got from Macs was getting hit by the rear crank counterweight. Finally got a pickup and tube from Speedway motors that seems to work without interference. To get pan off, I take off the ball for the front radius rods, and get a long bar to pry the assembly down and insert three short 2 X 4 boards to keep down while pan is removed. Its a hassle. Abe

My understanding is Lincoln spindles are the same as Ford.

Don't know about 42, but my 48 owners manual says 6 quarts. Most of us add a quart for filter. However, if you still use the original rear oil slinger, oil may come out if you park facing uphill. Abe

Speedway motors has a complete kit for 5 1/2 bolt circle disk conversion. They provide a custom plate that bolts to spindle and mounts chevy calipers with Ford truck disks. You need to sweat on an inner bearing race, and replace the outer bearing on the Ford disks. You'll also want a dual diaphram power disk break master cylinder with a remote fill setup. If keeping the stock pedal assembly, need to fab an adapter plate ahead of the power brake unit. Also need a2 lb residual valve in the front circuit to keep the calipers next to the disks.

I've found it helpful to also remove the generator. I then put a couple of 2 X 4 blocks under radiator while wrestling hoses and getting mounting holes to line up. Abe

I paid about 5.7K a couple years ago, and thought I got a bargain. Had the crank rear oil slinger ground off to us a Ford seal, reground the cam for solid lifters, and converted to full flow oil filter included. Price included Melling M-15 oil pump, solid lifters, 8BA valves and one peace guides, new aluminum pistons for .060 bore, etc. I then assembled. Abe

Several recommend the Melling M-15 high volume oil pump. I put one in my 48. Had to get a separate Speedway pick-up tube to avoid interference with the rear crank throw. Otherwise, seems to give OK pressure. If you don't care about being bone stock, you can get higher compression aluminum heads, multi-carb intake, and headers for extra oomph, Some of us also replace hydraulic lifters with an Isky re-grind cam and solid adjustable lifters. Also recommended is a crankcase vent or PCV valve. Abe

That is not a nut you really want to be loose. But looks like there are some threads on the axle. You could try getting a box wrench on the nut, and gently pounding on the nut as you turn in. You might want to get a new nut and possibly run a die over the axle threads. Abe

Here is the manual I was thinking about. www.studebaker-info.org/Overdrive/BW_OD_service_manual_searchable.pdf. The Lincoln OD is slightly different. There is a metal rod in the adapter plate to keep from going into reverse when engaged, and the solenoid shaft is longer. Abe

Most overdrive problems are electrical, not mechanical. Take your VOM meter and check. Sometimes its just a blown fuse. I've had the governor stop working due to oil inside case. If the solenoid is out, you can check with a set of jumper cables. The Lincoln solenoid has a longer shaft than the Ford. You need a good diagram. Look on the web for a booklet on Borg-Warner overdrive, or look in a Ford repair manual. I've had to replace kickdown switches too. My Lincoln OD was miss-assembled and the sun gear was binding. Transmission Exchange in Portland was able to fix. Need to check fluid level in both tranny and OD. I lost an OD once due to low fluid. Once, the bearing on the back of the transmission case for the countershaft galled the case. One transmission had a broken collar in the synchro assembly. Worked OK though. Still love the OD, Abe

Typical problems come from lugging motor and not downshifting when it should be. A couple of design flaws: There is no crankcase breather, and the original valves used split guides so combustion gasses easily get into crankcase leading to the "stinking Lincoln" syndrome where obnoxious vapors come out the oil fill pipe.. There are several possible solutions including using 8BA Ford one piece valve guides, and a PCV valve. The Borg Warner overdrive was used on Fords, Chevies, Studebakers and other makes, and once you catch on to it, operates somewhat like a five speed with second and OD as well as high and OD. H&H Flatheads and others have speed parts, even a supercharger if you need more oomph. A properly built and maintained V-12 should last at least as well as a Ford flathead. Look for rust in the floor, trunk, rocker panels and fender ends. You can also spend a small fortune on chrome. Abe

Tom is right, but it can be confusing. The engine is 75 degree, odd fire, the right bank is 15 degrees after the left bank. Both sides are even fire 6 cylinders. However, the distributor contacts are offset, so each set of points fires three on one side and then three on the other side, so six plug wires must cross the engine. Abe

Stephane: The value will vary considerably with the condition of the vehicle. You can check Hemmings Motor News online where several are for sale. Does it run, does it have rust, is everything there? Abe

John: Carefully remove the solenoid, remove bolts and turn to pull out. Reinstall solenoid after trans is in place. I use a couple of rods screwed into side mounting holes on the engine block to guide the trans in place lining up the input with the clutch disk, sometimes have to rotate in gear a bit to mesh. If clutch has been out, need to center disk with an old transmission input shaft or make a dowel. You might also need to raise the rear of the engine a bit to make everything line up. It is easier to install motor mount with trans out of car. Funny, I'm about to do the same thing with rehabbed transmission. Abe

Looks wonderful John! Did you get the brightwork re-chromed or were you lucky to have a good set? Abe