abelincoln

All of the above are likely suspects. You can check the points at the screw terminals on top with a dc volt meter. Should have 2-3 volts when running, Just keep fingers away from fan. If one side says 6 volts or 0 volts you can suspect a problem. I like to use a timing light on individual plug wires to avoid shock. Otherwise, hook up a spare spark plug with a clip -clip on the ground electrode and watch for spark. Lincoln distributor is an elector-mechanical marvel. Engine is odd fire, and each set of points fires three cylinders on each side. Nice looking vehicle. Abe

Thanks folks. After some debate, I went ahead and ordered a set from Chris. Was tempted to put the price toward getting a Ford Explored 8.8 rear end, about the same size but you need to get axle tubes and axles from two rear ends as the Explorer has an offset due to transfer case. Would need a new frame member to locate and hang coil over shocks as well. But you could have disk brakes, positraction, and any ratio you want. Abe

Managed to remove the offending parts. Looks kind of like a motor mount with the top part still on the car, and the bottom part attached to the curved cross member. Found a part no. of 96H 5044, insulator. Any ideas of where to get a pair, or maybe a motor mount re-builder? I'm also thinking the insulator is not particularly important, don't recall seeing such a thing on a Ford of similar vintage. Looks like it was mostly detached before I started working on the area, glad I caught before the rear end fell out while driving. Thanks Abe

What holds the rear spring cross member in place on a 48 Continental? I was trying to disconnect the rear spring shackles to lower the differential so the transmission can be removed. when there was a bang, and the cross member disconnected on one side, and the spring end hit the floor. Looks like it was held in place with some kind of insulating material. Seems like it should be bolted or welded. What do do next? Thanks Abe

I'm using aluminum aftermarket heads, so I looked on granger.com and found a box of washers just the right size, much cheaper. Abe

I found that there was no hole for the crankcase vent tube that goes to the air cleaner in my intake gasket. Guess it pays to check. The important holes are the ones for the manifold bolts. Abe

JW: Please check your messages on this forum. Thanks

Looking for a 48 V-12 oil pan. I think they are the same for all years. Thanks, Abe

I suppose it depends on condition. I can have mine re-welded, but I think a fresh pan would be better. Have your friend e-mail me at trades707@juno.com. Thanks, Abe

Anybody have a spare, unwanted 36-48 V-12 oil pan? Mine was welded and now leaks. Thanks Abe

I thought mine was bad... Still, if the cylinder walls are intact, you can clean up, bore out, get new pistons, valve assemblies, etc.

I managed to check the line by unhooking at the mechanical pump, and using an air gun with a rag at the filler pipe force gas through the line. You can also do this in reverse and see if air comes out the filler pipe. My line was still good after car sat for 30 years with fowl smelling gas residue, but I needed to take the tank to a radiator shop to clean. The electric pump shouldn't put more than 3-5 lb pressure to the carb, as you don't want the needle valve to unseat in the float bowl. If you take out the mechanical pump, its a good idea to leave the rod in as to not leak oil back into the crankcase. Also should mount the electric pump low as practical as they don't suck well. Abe

My trunk lock was actually disconnected, so I took out the back seat and managed to reach past the previously bent cardboard to reach the latch from the inside. Then took to locksmith. Abe

Thanks, I bookmarked this one. Abe

Starter likes 12 volts just fine. I disconnected the car electrics from the starter relay, and ran about a two ohm large (50 amp) resistor in series with the ignition circuit. To avoid coil damage, check voltage at the points when running, should be 2-3 volts. Resistor still got hot, but engine ran on 12 volts.

I went to NAPA and got some "fuel injector hose". Its expensive, but the hose isn't supposed to collapse under suction. Abe

If you take the crank out for any reason, consider having the rear oil slinger ground off and getting a Ford rope seal and housing. Otherwise should you park pointing uphill, oil may run out. Abe

My vague recollection is that the337 V-8 started as a truck motor and was adapted for the new model 1949 Lincoln. Yours could be from a truck or from an early 1949 model year Lincoln made in late 1948. Abe

I think they were designed to leak on purpose. Not much of a seal between the pan lip and the rear main housing. I've tried high temp silicone as well as sheet metal edging that slips over the pan edge. To make matters worse, the rear main gets oil straight from the pump with a drain right where it can hit the end of the pan and run out. Some engines come with a tube that is supposed to channel away. I put a pipe to reach into the oil. Not good if oil gets on the clutch either. Abe

If all the previous checks out, I've had similar problem with worn brass synchro gears leading to falling our of 2nd gear. Best of luck, Abe

I had one get low on oil in the OD part of the transmission and froze the gears, a real mess. Still ran when I locked it out. Like Matt says, ground governor and see if the solenoid clunks. Abe

The OD is pretty simple and usually reliable. There is, however, a free-wheeling clutch so that if you take your foot off the gas under the governor speed of 22-24 MPH, the engine is disconnected from the rear wheels. Probably worth checking the governor. If the governor contacts don't close, you get the free=wheeling at all speeds. I had a s governor that was full of gear oil (80-90 is recommended), and would not get an electrical connection. You can ground the terminal that goes to the governor at the relay, should pick up the OD solenoid. The circuit goes through the kickdown switch under the gas pedal, so if the kickdown switch is bad you could have the same problem. Much easier than pulling the rear end. Abe

My understanding is windows should be hydraulic, run by pump in drivers side engine compartment. Also works top on cabriolet models. Vacuum hose runs from engine to tank under right front fender. smaller hose goes to wipers and radio antenna. Sometimes the one way vacuum hold valve at the tank goes bad. Abe

Got the pan and one head back on. Most days I'm out on tractor, but should come together in next couple weeks. No knock when turned with starter. Abe

I think we can identify the problem. When I put the M-15 oil pump back in, the pickup tube and screen look like they've been through a war zone. There is a flat spot on the top of the tube where the rear crankshaft counterweight has been hitting and bending the bottom of the screen housing on bottom of the oil pan. It's a Mac's screen and pickup that are supposed to fit the M-15 pump. Maybe the Ford V-8 doesn't have such a large counterweight. Constant banging each revolution might also reduce oil and oil pressure. Now for a little heating and tube bending. Also make sure the pump is not rotated clockwise toward the counterweight. I tapped the oil drain hole fin the rear bearing cap for 1/4 npt, to install a street elbow to get drain away from the pickup tube. I appreciate the advice guys. The bearing caps are numbered with arrows toward the front, so they are fine. Abe