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abelincoln

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Everything posted by abelincoln

  1. Check the aftermarket suppliers for pulleys, ebay, amazon also. I've seen them at swap meets. I got one from Grainger, but needed to modify mounting boss to make it work. Then I converted the whole operation to serpentine belt. When the input capacitors fail on the radio, you may experience more static. They are likely bad anyway after 70 years. Abe
  2. You should consider replacing the input capacitors on the radio, and reverse the polarity. Worst problem is pulling the wire out of the ammeter and reversing direction so will read charge and discharge correctly. for the instruments, you can either build a solid state voltage reducer or use a 57 Ford vibrating regulator. 100 amp GM alternator with one wire works well with an adapter bracket for Ford you can also find on e-bay. then you don't need the regulator on the firewall. Abe
  3. Try measuring voltage on the low side of the coil with the engine running, (being careful of the fan!) Should be 2-3 volts on each side. I had a NOS distributor that had a bad spring on the points, took a long time to figure out. Try to find someone with an old test set that can dial in the distributor, check vacuum advance too. I've also had sparking at the terminal plate where the wires hook up. Really messy. Abe
  4. I tried hydraulic jack oil in the shock. First warm unit with light torch to get old oil out. Works better now.
  5. I got someone to answer the phone a few months ago, said business was tied up by state wanting taxes, and the survivors were trying to re-incorporate in Delaware. They have always been good to me. I hope they make it. Abe
  6. Doesn't sound good. But there are a couple things to try. Jack up at least one rear wheel, put tranny in neutral, and try to spin wheel by hand. While in the air, you can also block front wheel, run engine in gear (I'd try second) and see if you can notice any thing out of ordinary. If a bearing is bad, it usually gets warm when run. Good Luck Abe
  7. Cool, we have a 48 in that color. Along with various Fords and Lincolns, I also have a tractor. So I put in hydraulic tractor fluid from NAPA. Works well, and does not smell like ATF or ancient brake fluid. Easier to clean up too. Abe
  8. I'd look for a parts book, and a body book, nice drawings and dimensions. Probably better would be to find an intact Lincoln of your model and take lots of pictures. Abe
  9. My understanding is the Lincoln starter dive is a bit different than the Ford. A competent auto-electric place will rebuild your Lincoln starter. I use ABE in Portland, OR
  10. Not a Lincoln, but the 56 Fords in my collection headlight switches are held in with a bezel from the front. There is a button the top of the switch which releases the shaft of the switch so you can get at the bezel. Hope this helps Abe
  11. Does the engine turn over? I put a mixture of WD-40, Marvel oil, and auto trans fluid in each cylinder to soak for a few days, removed the starter, and gently pried on flywheel teeth to free. After a few more days, it worked. Be careful, if you break a flywheel tooth, its a bunch more work. 12-V should spin starter, but I had to get mine re-built to spin engine. Good Luck Abe
  12. I did this to the 48 V-12. I had the machinist who did the block use the Ford instructions and put a plug in the internal bypass passage. You are right about being tight fit. I was able to get a pipe elbow on outside hole to attach to a hose, but had to screw in a short section of brass pipe for the inside hole. I mounted the filter on the pan with a Lowes bracket. Seems to work. Its not a complete bypass, the oil pump also feeds the rear bearing directly. Abe
  13. Its an old Ford trick. 6-6 1/4 balancer was stock on 283, 327, and others. Check the old Ford sites and HAMB for how to's.
  14. There is an obituary in yesterday's Portland Oregonian for Ken Austin, a true giant in our hobby. Ken founded A-dec dental equipment company in Newberg, Oregon, and became wealthy enough to indulge his love for old Fords and Lincolns. He had some 200 in his well lighted and maintained garage, including the nicest 41 Continental Cabriolet in captivity. Having a foundry and machine shop available with A-dec, Ken made his own manifolds and heads for Lincoln V-12's. I was fortunate to obtain on of Ken's manifolds, even though I had to bug him for two years to get it. I believe H&H Flatheads now has the molds, but charges higher prices than Ken. Ken also supported many community projects, including the Forest Grove Concurs. Will miss him. Abe
  15. If you want improved performance, have a hub machined to mount the crank pulley, and use a Chevy balancer. GM balancer needs to be honed a bit to fit. You then need to fab a fan adapter, or go with electric fans. Not stock, but would take a careful eye to tell the difference. Abe
  16. When I first acquired my Lincoln, I didn't want to buy a 6 volt battery as I knew it would be a long time. What I did was measure voltage at coil, should be 2.5-3 volts when running. Be careful of fan. I found a 1.2 ohm resistor in series with the stock ignition resistors worked about right to get it running with a temporary 12 volt battery. I used a 25 watt, 1.2 ohm resistor which got quite warm. I think 50 watt would be better. Mount the resistor some place where the heat won't cause a problem. You can also have coils re-wound for 12 volt operation. Abe
  17. Most often recommended is a Melling M-15 high capacity pump. Bolts right on but needs an aftermarket pick up tube. Abe
  18. I have an adjustable lifter changeover. The rear fuel pump has a cap for use with electric fuel pump, a 1/16 hole is drilled in the front to lube timing chain, and a 1/16 hole was drilled in the front regulator to let some oil pass. We hope it works. Abe
  19. Jord: Sounds like a possible voltage problem, compounded by a tight rebuild. I'd check the generator and battery condition first. Might not be charging or holding a charge. Starter problems are usually with the drive not catching. I had mine rebuilt by a local shop. The stock starter also works well on 12 Volts, but that involves other updates and most are reluctant to change. Abe
  20. Larry: Thanks for the sketch. Now I have a good idea why our previous owner put in an auxiliary vacuum pump when he left the lines to the replaced non-vacuum antenna unplugged. I'm highly suspicious of the check valve on the tank as well. Abe
  21. You should be able to see from underneath the cable attachment to the lever on the side of the overdrive transmission, and remove if necessary. the cable is also attached to a bell housing bolt, again you should be able to reach. Sometimes you need to clean some accumulated dirt and greasy crud. to see what is going on. I've had cables rust and become hard to operate. Sometimes you can free up with penetrating oil or wd-40 from the outside, otherwise you can pull out and lube cable with white grease.
  22. I took my 48 radiator to a local shop. They sent off for a new core of proper dimensions. Cost over $700 as I recall. Might see if an aftermarket place, Speedway Motors, Jegs, Summit Racing, etc would be cheaper. Abe
  23. Hope your heater works! Don't slip in the ice Abe
  24. Of course it is possible to install distributor 180 out. Don't ask how I know. If you look closely, one end of the tang that fits in the camshaft is bigger than the other. Make sure these line up. Abe
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