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Everything posted by abelincoln

  1. For a while I ran a dual coil replacement with two plug wire holes on the top and stock brushes inside. Search this forum for possible suppliers. i used two MSD 6A units, blaster coils, and stock points. Trouble was, MSD was so hot it flashed over the top of the coil replacement, still ran pretty good. My latest scheme is to use a 60-2 crank trigger wheel and sensor with a Fuel Tech computer, and two wasted spark VW-Audi V-6 coil assemblies. I'll post should it actually work. If you want to want to use solid state points in original distributor, Philbin Products in Portland, OR, AKA Flathead Doctor make a unit for V-12 distributors. www.philbingroup.com.
  2. I think I've got a 56 distributor somewhere, but its a bit cold in the garage to look. My faint recall is that there were two diaphragms to speed up the vacuum advance with a derivative signal (mathematically a second order) since there was no mechanical advance. Don't see any centripetal weights inside. Abe
  3. Looks like a 56 Ford distributor with vacuum advance only, no mechanical advance. 57's were better, had dual advance. Abe
  4. I found it helps to remove the generator and then stand on the gunwalls to pull up and then back. Still not easy. Abe
  5. Here's a left headpipe from Reds Header under frame member then up. Hasbe O2 sensor and a few things not hooked up. Abe
  6. I have a tractor in addition to the LC, so I use NAPA tractor fluid. Seems to work as well, and smells much better when spilled. Abe
  7. Purists close your eyes. This is for sale at https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/1937-lincoln-zephyr-custom/6621427424.html. Too much money, but they still used a V-12. Abe
  8. I did the 7" dual booster and new master cylinder on my 48. Had to make an adapter plate between booster and frame with a couple coupling nuts and a piece of 1/4 rod to use the stock pedals. I mounted a new fill reservoir on inner fender. You might want to consider the Speedway disk brake kit as well. Uses Ford pickup disks and GM pistons. My intake manifold had a tapped hole for vacuum to run windshield wipers, just put in a "T" and ran hose to booster. Abe
  9. I thought that after about five years of fussing, the 48 LCC might actually run again, so I started adding fluids with the overdirve first. What I got was gear oil all over the floor. Likely I messed up, or missed a gasket at the transmission - overdrive junction. Tried to pry apart and add permatex gear oil sealer, still leaks. So I'm thinking I need to pull the transmission to disassemble and see what is wrong. Unfortunately the engine is installed (and I think ready to run), so to pull the tranny I need to separate the torque tube from the universal joint at the rear of the transmission. This means lowering the rear end third member so the torque tube will slide back. I put a spreader bar between the rear transverse spring eyes, hopefully won't go sprong. Questions in no particular order: 1. How far back to I need to move the torque tube to get the transmission out? 2. Does the rear axle assemble need to come completely out? At least I could clean off the grease and oil accumulated there. 3. Do we need to pull the hubs to unhook the hand brake cable, or can I take the turnbuckle apart where the hand brake cable splits? 4. Depending on answer to 1 and 2, could we leave the hand brake cable in place and get enough clearance? 5. Is it better to remove the bushing in the spring eye to separate spring from the assembly, or take out the upper shackle bolt? 6. Where to disconnect rear shock absorbers? 7. Looks like we'll need to disconnect the brake line, not much slack there. Any other advice or consolation appreciated. Thanks Abe
  10. Our right side rocker panel on the 48 LCC has holes big enough to throw a cat through. Does anyone make a replacement? Would be nice if we could cut out old and weld in new under the lower trim piece. Left side seems OK, as inside weld has come undone and water can run out. picture is from floor near front fender, garage ceiling at bottom of picture. Cat is 15 lb Norwegian Forest Cat. Others must have had this issue. Thanks, Abe
  11. John: Don't know about 37, but our 48 has a seat cushion that just lifts out, nothing but gravity holding in. Should be able to snake a belt through there somewhere. Usually you add a big washer under car to support through bolt. Good luck Abe
  12. John: I'm not aware of any. Someone stuffed a large hose in my filler tube with a heater hose inside. Still smelled bad. You can get after market breathers that you cut a hole in pan to mount, or better yet, get a PCV setup. Cure is to rebuild with Ford 8BA one piece valve guides and valves, aluminum pistons and good rings. Abe
  13. Did the conversion include re-wiring the coils for 12-volts? You can get away with the old one with a 1.2 ohm 50 watt resistor in the ignition circuit. Beware it gets hot. The gauges still like 6 volts, should be a converter circuit somewhere. If now negative ground, need to re-thread the ammeter wire in the opposite direction. Measure voltage at the coil low voltage terminals while running, should be 2.5-3 volts. Watch out for fan! I like your car color. Abe
  14. Not so bad if you take out the two large bolts on the bottom of radiator that hold radiator in, access from wheel wells , lower radiator, slip on hoses with clamps , pry radiator back in place, install bolts, then tighten hose clamps. Best of luck. Abe
  15. There are several possible methods. You can adapt a hose with PCV to the hole in manifold leading to engine valley, at least on later models, that lets air from engine into air cleaner. You could also drill a hole in web near mounting bolt holes, no water in intake manifold, but avoid exhaust passage. Some use the manifold port for vacuum connection, better if you can add hole to carb near throttle control, or add a spacer plate under carb for carb vacuum to PCV. I found a Chevy 292, 6 cylinder PCV valve fit OK. Haven't yet run to check vacuum though. However, if engine has too much blow-by or if two piece valve guides are leaking, this won't solve problem for long. Time for a rebuild with one piece Ford 8BA guides and valves and newer aluminum pistons with new rings. Then apply PCV valve. Engine will be cleaner inside and will last longer. Abe
  16. Ryan: Old brake fluid really gums up, you may not be able to save all the lines. I had to replace several lines, rod out some with an old speedometer cable, and do my best flushing the top cylinders. I also gave up on the pump under the hood after several attempts, lines were also plugged, and got a '60 pump that fits under rear seat. I now use NAPA tractor hydraulic fluid for top lines. Smells a lot better than auto transmission fluid. Abe
  17. Adrian: Not familiar with flatomatic, but have torn apart several ford automatics. Sounds to me like very low oil level or something in the torque converter isn't getting pressure to the connection. The C4 is generally pretty rugged. If you are adventuresome, get a later model with more gears and adapt to open drive line or fab a torque tube adapter. Abe
  18. Dave: Hard to tell what some previous re-builder has done. I'd think anyone who grinds flathead cams could do the job. Tell him you if you want to keep hydraulic or convert to solid lifters. I used Oregon Camshaft in Vancouver, WA. The hot tip here is to use the 8BA Ford one piece valve guides and valves, retainers, etc. Much less chance of blow-by, combustion products in the oil, and stink out the vent pipe. You can pick up a few HP by using solid, adjustable lifters and a flathead performance grind. Need to plug rear oil gallery and drill 1/16 holes in the front gallery and in the front to oil timing gear. You can adjust out the typical flathead lifter chatter. Adding a PCV valve helps with vapor control also. Abe
  19. Rather ominous hole in the front window. Abe
  20. If you don't mind loosing the stock tube type radio, looks like a display would fit nicely where the speaker in the dash currently resides, at least on my 48. Pioneer and others make radio units with backup cameras that look like they would fit. You could put a hinge on the stock speaker cover to shade the screen and also hide the screen when not in use. Of course you'd need speakers in the doors or kick panels. Then you get FM, bluetooth sterio, and navigation system as well. Someone should make a hinge mirror mount that sticks up higher for the right side. In the mean time I think the Ford truck hinge mirrors look OK. I prefer driving with the top down, lots of visibility then. Abe
  21. Congratulations! Yours looks cleaner than mine. Abe
  22. Hopefully it wasn't offset ground to increase stroke so you won't need custom rods or pistons. If they didn't remove the oil slinger in the rear, do so and get a Ford seal so it won't leak going up steep hills. Abe
  23. Best to find a good schematic diagram so you'll know which wire goes where. The little red service and repair manual has one (ebay has them), and several are available on the web, look for the right year. Make sure the fuse is good as well. Abe
  24. As long as we're being rare and exotic, you could use the center plug hole for one of the new fangled direct injection setups. Need 2500 lb fuel pressure though. Abe
  25. Cool stuff. Seems like the center spark plug might interfere with the piston top. Would the front cover mount two six cylinder distributors? Abe
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