auburnseeker

Horn ring looks 40's maybe late 30's Mopar. The emblem looks like the Kaiser logo to me.

Sure looks factory to me. I think they went to the other style in the later 60's.

Bet you are happy you are done insulating. I get the itches even walking in the room with the stuff. I had to pull down about 9 bays of roxul insulation to run a wire the other day that the previous owner didn't do right and I was relieved when I pushed the last piece in place then unsuited. Now it's all covered with foam. I only have the bay the panel box is in and a couple tiny rippings to stuff up by my stairs, then I'm completely done with the stuff. On the little garage. The big one is 3 times the size of it. I'm not looking forward to that. Looks like you are making good progress. Keep us up to date.

I was going to put the Hudson out in the big shop but with the cold and temperature swings still holding on, I didn't want it to sweat. It's got some paint issues I don't want to aggravate and a battery blew up under the hood before I got it, and I don't think they got it all neutralized so keeping it dry is pretty important until i can get that rectified, maybe this summer. I wanted to pull and blast everything under the hood, but my blast cabinet is in my trailer as is my big Air compressor which I finally am making a spot for in the toy box. I may set the blast cabinet up in there temporarily until I get a floor and maybe electric in the new shop. It is nice for all that under hood detailing. I got all the foam up on the ceiling today so now I can address the panel box and get that wall finally closed in. Then move some more crap so I can put some more wainscoting up. Just not enough time in the day or money in the bank. As usual.

I would agree with a convertible but that will be in the mid 20's and not quite in the shape the sedan appears. I always spend the extra when I buy to get the most desireabe version, but I don't usually start with a 4 door then upgrade to a convertible. That's a big step. If you look at it and it really does make you zing I would say offer him 8 If he says no, tell him he can keep the parts, as long as it doesn't need them and see if that does it. Alot of those parts are valuable until you try to sell them. So the owner will see the value as in what they spent and what they thought they had to spend to buy them. They probably figure they have a couple thousand in extras. It's all up to what you want. If you like one of these, then though they aren't real desirable, there aren't alot of them around in the condition this appears to be in. If they will consider the 8,000 or whatever number you would like to buy it for, think what else you could buy for 8,000 that you would like better. I do that when I'm pricing a car. If I'm going to sell something to buy something else, I price it so I could atleast buy the same type of car with what I'm trying to get out of it, maybe with a very slight reduction, to make it seam like just a little bit of a deal for a faster sale. It's hard to even find say a 50 ford 4 door sedan in decent shape or similar Chevy for much under 10. It's your money, you will know if it seems like a deal. I know an all original car will give you a whole different vibe when you look at it, and often cause you to up the anty a bit because you know the crappy ones that are a little less will never be what a true survivor is. Not sure about this one, But again, the lack of paint on any of the door hardware and rubbers which look aged and not fresh, Plus the super clean dash and very nice door panels make me lean toward survivor. Other than the head having been off (probably for a valve job) and some fresh paint on the air cleaner the paint on that engine and accessories look like they may be original even. If you like it and it's close enough to look at, I would take a look and see, what the story is. You could even Make a deal with the parts if you think the value is there and possibly recoup the difference on some of the parts, if the NOS parts are shiny bits. NOS chrome sells decent, even for these. The other NOS and NORS mechanical related parts will have little value except maybe to a new owner to keep it going, though I doubt it will need alot if it's in good working order now.

I only thought original paint because the door jambs looks awful clean. I can't imagine someone would have spent the money on this to have a really thurough paint job in the past. Possible but usually unlikely. I do agree that if you go to sell it, unless it's a really good survivor and marketed as such, will be a slow seller. Not many buyers lining up for this type of Packard. It's still an interesting car in what looks like very nice original condition. Still curious what the asking is on it?

With winter not yielding to spring here in the North East (April 16th revealed about 3/8 of an inch of ice over 1 and 1/2 to 2 inches of sleet). I have been working in the old garage. As mentioned a painfully slow process because of the need to do a small area, then move everything to do the next. I did manage to finish where the cord was and move that back, then move the 32 out of the way and a bunch of junk so I could properly run the wire through the ceiling for the lights instead of the through the lights with the wire running across the ceiling. I have to add an 8/3 wire in conduit on the base plate for my Air compressor, then change that outlets location at the panel box so I can finally finish that wall up. With the weather being so crappy atleast I have inside heated work to do. It's pouring right now and about 36 degrees. If I'm really lucky I may be able to finish that wall up by the end of the week. It will feel like a major accomplishment. I imagine I could have finished the whole job in probably 1/2 the time if I didn't have to work around everything in the garage. As soon as I get the Foam up on the ceiling, I have to move everything back and then move everything away from the wall. I spent $80 yesterday for 50 foot of 8/3 wire. Again all that little stuff that adds up you don't think about.

Looks to good to repaint. If the paint is original, it would probably have a negative effect on the value if you repainted it. In general I dont think they are a valuable car in terms of Dollars on the open market. This being what looks like very original and possibly a real survivor, should have added value over a "restored" or prettied up car. I've seen a pretty clean looking one, shiny paint and decent chrome, though I'm sure not this nice in person for 6500 on a local craigslist. I would think if you like it and it doesn't need major work in any way, that 10G or less would be a good buy. You couldn't begin to buy one in lesser shape and make it this nice without spending a pile of money. So the big question ,is what are they asking for it?

I had 3 sets cast, because I'me sure someone else out their like myself will be needing a set as theirs is missing. If chrysler is so worried about that quantity and the high Profit I will make off from 3 sets, let them. They can come to the house and I will personally let them watch me destroy them. I'm pretty sure they have alot better things to spend a day's worth of someone's salary on as well as travel. Plus I want them to bring a set with them to confirm that what I have is an infrigement on their product. I'm sure they have a set laying around at their disposal. I'm pretty sure any profit is pretty nominal if non existent once any of my time is figured into the finishing work they still need and I would provide before they left.

Looks as though the rumble lid isn't on it. The coupe would be good pieces parts, excluding the frame, though maybe there is a way to beef it up like the factory did. Odd what is missing and going to be hard to come up with. Surprising the doors are there but the windshield frame is gone. Looks like someone parted it out, but unless they were doing a coupe, seems the doors would have been high on the list to free it of.

Beautiful work. The only problem is it will be alot nicer than new when it's done as I'm 100 percent sure there wasn't as much care as you are taking involved in it's first assembly. Keep it up.

It looks to have sat in very damp storage at some point. I would really look those floors over. If what you can see is rusting like that, what you can't will be more of a concern.

That 36 Plymouth coupe listed above for I believe 2100. would be a very valuable parts car for you, from the looks of what is left with your car. Coupes and convertibles share alot of parts, sedans don't. Buying coupe parts individually will be alot more expensive than that parts car. Give it a long hard though before passing up the opportunity.

convertible top assembly might be tough to come by for one of these. I had a 36 Chrysler convertible which shares much of the same top parts and ended up having to have an set of top brackets for the mounting pegs cast when I couldn't find them anywhere. Fortunately I had all the steel and cast parts, but I was missing the wood front header bow and these clamps. I was fortunate enough to borrow a set from his car to use to have new ones cast and machined. He ironically was missing the rack itself, which he searched for for years before he paid a premium for a rough rack. I did have extra clamp assemblies cast if you get that far and need a set, I may be able to help you out.

Would a farm implement have had a wire spoke wheel though?

You did good if you got it for a better price. That's a great looking car and as mentioned looks like it was a well cared for original and not a fresh field car rehab. I would be happy to have on in that shape to drive around.

Well we can hope, or on the other side of the coin they will go to another country to never be seen again or possibly end up the victim of a natural disaster. If super rare they may get restored if not totalled beyond rebuild but if a wild fire or tornado the ymay not out live us, unless we were trying to ride out the twister in them. Next question, so if you get sucked up in a twister like Dorothy, do you end up at Hershey? That's the closest thing I can think of to OZ in the old car world.

I know this is an old thread, but I have seen reference with this logo in Ford used car literature as early as 1954 in training books.

Just dusting this off. Still seriously buying all types of lots daily of the internet. Why not sell me yours? Easy and pretty cheap to ship. Even the insignificant mailers from the dealers from back in the day are of interest.

I had a few of these in the boxes. I can't remember if I threw them in a whole sale lot to get rid of them when I moved my shop or they found their way to my new garage attic. I would say the best way to determine the value if you are looking to sell it is to put it on eBay with the lowest garage sale price you would sell it for as your opening bid no reserve and let it run for a 10 day auction. I never sold mine because they looked like they weren't worth the hassle to ship them. I don't remember if they were to long to go USPS my preferred method of shipping. That might have been the reason I didn't try selling them as well.

He's lucky he lives where he does. If this was upstate NY The stainless steel trim is about all that would be left other than an odd piece of glass or maybe an engine block, but that would probably be rusted up as well.

Don't worry, He'll let you train him first. It would be foolish not to. Still trying to figure out what to do with the wife and 3 kids to be able to take the job. Any ideas or Volunteers? It's still snowing here by the way, so Florida is starting to look pretty good right now.

I would bet with some of these, especially the more special ones they will go to a collection where only a select few will see them, or worse yet get shipped out of the country to go to private collections outside of the states. I don't see a lot of people going t museum sales buying the rarest of the rare cars, then doing the car show circuit with them.

Do you pay mileage to and from work? It's probably only 1400 miles each way. But what an opportunity for a real gear head that likes prewar cars like me.

I had to make custom extenders for the outlets that were already installed in my garage. They were set for 1/2 inch sheetrock. I went with 1 inch of foam, a 1/2 inch nailing strip and then 3/4 inch of wood, so the outlets were so buried I had no choice. The standard extenders would work as they weren't deep enough so I took the plastic boxes with wings and cut them on the chop saw to the desired depth I marked on them. It works really slick and only didn't work on the 3 gang which I cut carefully with a hack saw, though I could have cut with my 12 inch sliding chop saw, but didn]t want to drag it and the table all out for one cut, as I had my 10 inch non slider already set up. You could take the wings off and use the screw holes in the face to mount them as long s you are using something the screws could bite into. The boxes I have been adding where I had to wire in the lights as they were originally hardwired and being used as the junction boxes are all adjustable depth as they are being used on the ceiling and at the moment I have no idea what the finish is going to be. I'm leaning toward a tin type ceiling or atleast faux tin ceiling so I have no idea what depth the boxes would have to be. This gives me the option without having to mess around with the extenders I have been making. I actually spent all day cleaning and moving stuff around in mine today, just so I can finish putting the foam up on the ceiling where one of the cars were. The empty bay, was full of crap, so I had to clean that out, then get the Hudson running and out to switch it over to that bay. Then move the Cord to where the Hudson was, then I was finally able to take the one light down in that bay and put a new box in so when I put it back I can plug it in. That will make it easier to drop and put back up when I finally figure out what I'm doing with the ceiling. It would probably have taken me 1/2 the time or less if my garage had been empty except for my carpentry tools to finish the thing off. One option you could use is the wanescoting paneling that is raw wood, It almost looks like the real thing, from a distance. My original plan was to go with that, but wit hate foam and Roxul insulation that bulges the foam out, it wasn't a good match. I really like the look of the real wanescotting any ways and got a "deal". atleast I keep telling myself that, on it. You are gaining though. I think you are going to beat me, and I'm only finishing my small garage. I'm probably years away from the point you are at on the big shop. I was just contemplating what kind of semi permanent doors I could build today as the 75 MPH wind gusts really beat up my 14 by 16 foot tarp door.