starlightcoupe

Bud, Have you mentioned this on the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum? The AACA Studebaker page gets primarily pre-war attention. Multiply your coverage a hundred fold here. It's being switched to a new server as we speak but the link should work tomorrow. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131393097971?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D131393097971%26_rdc%3D1 Doesn't look Studebaker to me.

Jay, Saturday concludes the swap meet at York and things start shutting down between noon and 2:00 PM. Just a heads up. There will be a drawing for a '51 Land Cruiser at 2:00 PM. Details here: http://www.sdckeystoneregion.com/ You will want to either be there on Friday or very early Saturday if you want to have the opportunity to peruse the whole venue and get to meet some of the experts you will soon be getting to know.

Can't help with the grill but, your hubcaps are being reproduced in excellent quality for...well, last year they were $62.50 each. I assume you are a member of SDC and receive the monthly magazine? You can put a free want ad in there.

Might want to contact Mark at Cornerstone Registration, (763) 420-7829 registration@cornerstonereg.com I've had my Nov-Dec issue for over a month.

If you haven't been there, here's the web site. http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/index.asp The link to the SDC forum is in the drop down under "Resources".

The Museum has listed a couple nice vehicles (active) recently. The AACA Museum also has a beautiful '53 Commander Starliner currently on offer.

The body tag on my '33 is just in front of the driver's door when you open the hood.

Jay, Our Keystone Region Chapter of SDC is having our Christmas Banquet this Saturday in Lancaster, PA. Call Nancy Pfahler if you would like to meet some great people and share an exceptional meal. (717) 314-7730. I think reservations need confirmed by noon on Tuesday.

They were both good guys, as was their dad. Tell him I say "Hello".

I went to high school with both of his boys; one older than I and one younger. We were all in the band.

No, Tim. The one which my first post indicated I did not recognize, even though I was born and raised in Washington, PA ! :eek: Until I used Dave's link to Google Maps I didn't realize it was the same building where I was employed from 1967 to 1968. I detailed an awful lot of Stingers, Super Bees, Dusters, New Yorkers and Crown Imperials in that building; also washed the showroom windows and swept the shop floors.

Oh my lord! I was employed in that building when I was in high school! At that time it was Geo. Stewart Dodge-Chrysler-Plymouth-Imperial.

Jerry Kurtz is 5009 Bull Road Dover, PA 17315-1726 Ph. (717) 308-1800 but any calls should be considerate of Eastern U.S. time zone. As Bob indicated, Jerry restored his own COE Coca-Cola truck, seen at many National Meets, and is also a member of the "Bored" of Directors of the Antique Studebaker Club.

Jay, The post-war model Studebakers get much more traffic on the Studebaker Drivers Club web forum. Very much worth visiting, as is the entire web site, with links to vendors and all the maintenance literature and assistance you can possibly need. http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/index.asp

All you really need is a good metal to metal contact. The original ground (earth) is the screws that hold you headlight buckets to the front fender sheet metal. Over time these wear and/or corrode (or are insulated by additional painting over the years). A 1/8" drill bit and a fresh sheet metal screw are about as new and clean as you can get. Clean, tight grounds are the very simplest and unobtrusive additions that can be made and will solve 90% of all electrical problems in old cars.

Ken, Pretty common in very old, or foreign, vehicles to refer to ground as positive earth or negative earth. Earth=dirt=ground! Chuckle, chuckle!

Rhode Island and a company called YnZ's Yesterday Parts in California are both excellent for quality harnesses in the original appearing cloth braided and lacquered wire. Can't go wrong with either. Cheaper harnesses are available in wire without the cloth braid and lacquer. Totally safe and effective but not if you want a show car judged. Should you go with a modern harness from another supplier, make certain they know it will be six volt. Otherwise the wires will not be able to pass the amperage.

Jeff, if Bob can't help you, check with Dave Thibeault. If he is not the cure he can certainly steer the direction.

No official here but, bodies were fully painted before the drop to chassis. I would be surprised if the firewall was any color other than the body. This persisted through the 1966 production.

Check with Jerry Kurtz. (717) 308-1800

With regard to the pre-war Studebakers, the AACA and its forum is going to have the greater experience, resources and concern. Once you start talking about post-war Studebakers you are going to find an intense fanaticism at the SDC forum. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/ It's not competition, simply a specialized resource. WELCOME TO BOTH ARENAS ! :cool:

I'm sure others can better address your specific question better than I but, Jerry Kurtz has machined the filter canister adapter to work on your '37 with original appearance and modern filter. He can address any concern you may have on your '37 filter system, original or adapted. Jerry Kurtz (717) 308-1800 Dover, PA.

Bud, Post your request on the Studebaker Drivers Club forum where, as a post war vehicle, it will receive much more traction. Actually, it would behoove your friend to open his own forum profile and get involved in his own vehicle. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/

You're already in the L.A. area ! Why not ask Jay Leno? He's a member of the Studebaker Drivers Club !