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starlightcoupe

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Everything posted by starlightcoupe

  1. Vendors who vend at sanctioned Studebaker meets or advertise in the Studebaker Drivers Club magazine are subject to pressure within the SDC and its membership. If there is an issue with a SDC vendor you should contact Bob Halgren, SDC vending arbitrator. Failure to resolve a bonafide vending issue can result in forfeiture of the vendor's ability to conduct business through any SDC sanctioned venue or publication. Assuming you have exhausted efforts to deal directly, I would suggest you contact Bob to achieve a clean resolution.
  2. Thanks, Dave! About the only non-original items on this one are the ignition wires, exhaust, tires and battery...Oh! And the right headlight bulb and lens! I hadn't thought about the loss of points affecting operation. At least it will still have a generator instead of those nasty alternators! I will keep the distributor guts necessary to achieve mobility in the event of a magnetic collapse in the PerTronix; just slightly more painful to rebuild the distributor on the side of the road than to file the points!
  3. Been in storage for two years and this is the first time I've had to remove acorns from the carb to get it running. Will be installing a PerTronix, new plugs and fresh fuel next weekend. Now that I'm retired I'm thinking of getting more enjoyment out this barely broke in sweetie. http://s57.photobucket.com/user/rockne10/media/Rockne/P5180218_zps5ba8fcfb.mp4.html
  4. Stuben, Have you joined the Antique Studebaker Club? Probably more resources than you will ever need! http://theantiquestudebakerclub.com/
  5. I was born and raised in Washington, PA and don't remember that. Where was it? Until September of 1959 I lived on Wylie Avenue, two blocks from Deik McClelland Studebaker-Mercedes. I understand that back in the teens/twenties there was a local depot for wagons and cars but I'm not aware of the location. I don't remember the plaster logo on any buildings in my memory.
  6. :cool: Richard, I've actually seen one unrestored Schacht in my lifetime. So I know exactly the application!
  7. John, I assume you have not visited the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum. So much more action going on there, especially regarding post war cars. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/ Your headliner and seat covers are being reproduced to factory specs, including re-loomed original materials and patterns, by René Harger, who advertises every month in Turning Wheels magazine. If you can get to South Bend first weekend in May, there will be a huge all-Studebaker swap meet where you will no doubt find quite a number of radios; probably a headlight switch as well. René will also be there.
  8. Tim, Mine is broken as well. I suspect it will eventually take some machining for the end clips and some welding and rechroming on the center strip. If anyone has a simpler solution, please let us both know.
  9. Same result of using Lubriplate assembly lube when rebuilding.
  10. Ken, When I was a kid my dad would drive us down from Washington, PA just to get an ice cream cone in Waynesburg! Are you looking for all Studebakers or just pre war? The Studebaker Drivers Club Forum has a page specifically for posting vehicle photos. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forumdisplay.php?11-Members-Studebaker-Pictures! Here's a link to photos of my Rockne. http://s57.photobucket.com/user/rockne10/library/Rockne?sort=2&page=1
  11. If you need the handle, can't help you. If all you need is the knob, Shrock Brothers have it reproduced. http://www.shrockbrothers.com/studebaker_reproduction_parts.html
  12. Scott, Sounds like you are going to take the long route to the right direction. Would love to see pictures through this progress. Very hard to find anything more elegant than a St. Regis!
  13. Sure, Tim! Just mouse click on the hyperlink Richard provided in his message. If Dave Thibeault can't help you, he can no doubt lead you straight to someone who can. He has a couple of ads in Antique Studebaker Review every issue. 3 ads on page 31 of this March/April issue.http://www.studebaker-info.org/vendo...tbow0513b.html
  14. Post them on the Studebaker Drivers Club forum for better coverage in the post war market. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/
  15. Remarkable, Wayne! The desire to be true to original, and the patience and perseverance to achieve it; just remarkable. A great many upholstery weaves and windlace patterns are long out of production. When one is doing the "maintenance" necessary to keep the original vehicle as it was, that additional effort is its own reward.
  16. Falls between '47-'49. Someone can identify better. You may want to post this to the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum. It will achieve much greater activity for post war Studebakers. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/
  17. I have referenced this site on several occasions; and contributed to it as well. It's not just radios. Start from his "home" page. He also has a link for items that folks have sent in and would like identified.
  18. Bob, I should assume you have this graphic from the chassis catalog. If so, here it is again.
  19. My parts catalog indicates the Model 55 used a Cobro tail light. Not Naco. Have you checked with Bob Kapteyn?
  20. As noted in another post, Tim's friend is looking for a tail light for a Model 55, not a 1955 model. Would this be a NACO Standard fixture as used on many vehicles of the period?
  21. Lots of resources around the northeast, Chris! Less than two weeks till York now but, line up some leads, line up some questions, prepare to meet you there and help as much as possible!
  22. Indeed, Richard; seldom seen items. Lives close to you as well! Have you come across any of these from B.F.Goodrich, circa 1914? 48 page, 3-1/2x6"
  23. No. I am not familiar with the '30 brakes but, if they are similar to mine, there is a major eccentric and a minor eccentric in the drum. The turnbuckle is in the cable. Have you found access to a 1930 service adjustment manual?
  24. Instructions in the manual for my '33 say do not change the cable length or use the turnbuckles to adjust brakes. Cable length is factory set. All adjustments should be made within the drums.
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