starlightcoupe

For what it's worth, photos of these old gauges may be submitted to https://sites.google.com/site/identifyinginstrumentpanels/home to assist future restorations with identification.

Ken, The harness for overdrive is simplicity itself. Save yourself $100 and make it yourself. Or...you know Jerry's specialty is the overdrive transmissions don't you? He's already done your trunk handle. Have you thought to ask him about the OD harness?

Gary, I don't have the books either but, they may well be also for the Commanders and Presidents. Bernie should also post his quest on the SDC forum. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/

Olympic, There's a huge interest in post war Studebakers. You just need to address it to the proper forum. This will see a lot more traffic if you post it on the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/

The catalogs cover several years. SI lists two body catalogs: 1928-36 six cylinders, 250 pages for $30.00, Item 801283; (and) 1929-40 sixes and eights, 200 pages for $22.50, Item 801284. The chassis catalog for the sixes is item # 801253, 1928-40, 520 pages for $45. Item # 801249 is the shop manual for all 1935 models, 144 pages for $20. These are all reprints of factory originals.

Terry, the Serial Number should be the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) used for all legal registrations. Occasionally the body tag or engine number was used in some states or provinces but most have corrected to the number that most stays with the chassis.

Tim, Did you contact Jerry? He's home from the SDC Meet. Jerry Kurtz of Dover, PA. (717) 308-1800

Tim, The plate you question is the body tag, not the Serial Plate. Your body tag would look exactly like this, only W-2 instead of W-1 and, obviously, with a differing body number on the second line. If the National Museum has your production order you can pinpoint the precise body number. This is 1-1/2"x3-3/4" and is being reproduced to your specification by Jerry Kurtz of Dover, PA. (717) 308-1800. Jerry is, no doubt, at this moment in Dover, DE for the SDC International. He is on this AACA forum, as well as the SDC forum as jerezstude. http://forums.aaca.org/members/jerezstude/ http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/member.php?5387-jerezstude The Serial No. plate would be on the left frame rail just behind the front tire and look like this.

I passed on a very nice '63 GT in 1980 for $12,000; not because it was not worth it but, because I did not have $12,000.

Don't let him wash it or he will want $6000! :eek: (Cheap at that!)If it is not already in your garage you are missing the boat! Buy it quick! Then follow this missive. http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/TechThings2do.asp And join this club. http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/index.asp

Larry, 67's would not have the black "S" on the hood. After '64 they were no longer Studebakers.

Other than it was a product of the South Bend plant, rather than Los Angeles or Canada.Jerry, also note, Studebaker stamped their numbers with a Roman Numeral I as an intended 1 (one). So your Serial No. is actually G1325139.

Could really benefit from a few more details, as well as some photos. At the very least, the identification from the body tag on the firewall. Also would no doubt get a ton more attention on the Studebaker Drivers Club forum, catering more to the post-war vehicles. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/

Automatic transmission fluid technology has come a long way since they were introduced in the early fifties. Back then, quality 10W oil was the best available. Today, Dexron-Mercon and it's even more developed progeny are about the best to recommend. Any modern trans fluid will be better than what was available in 1959. Recent reports indicate to go with the F type if you want a harsher more solid shift and the Dexron-Mercon if you want a softer smooth shift. I run Dexron-Mercon in my '51 DG200 as well as the '61 FOM. By the way, that '59 is not a two speed. It's a three-speed FOM (Flight-O-Matic). When starting from a stop in "D", it does start in second. Starting in "L" will start it in first; then he will need to shift to "D" for second and third. Has he visited the Studebaker Drivers Club forum? http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/ Or joined the Studebaker Drivers Club? http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/index.asp

Tim, I don't imagine there's any chance you would be traveling through central PA at any point? It's 5-1/2 hr drive from Fremont to Pine Grove Mills but, should you be headed to Dover for the International Meet, I'll be here until I head to Dover on the 2nd. I'm sure you would prefer to not wait until the next time the Irish play in Beaver Stadium!

I don't have anything you need, Keith but, when you do put it back together, be sure you use the King-Seeley fluid, not mercury ! The correct fluid is available and has a very specific barometric density for the system. Put mercury in there and I am pretty certain your gauge will never read anything but empty!

Just received this from Graham Gagne in Canada. "Hi everyone Something you may be interested in or know of someone who might like a good pre-war Studebaker project. A 1925 Studebaker ER Standard Six has appeared for sale in North River just outside Truro, Nova Scotia, Canada. The owner is moving and the car needs to be sold before the end of June. She believes it to be a President but, as far as I was able to find out Presidents didn’t appear until sometime in 1927. It appears to be the standard six model as it’s distributor is on the passenger side whereas the distributor was on the front of the special and big six engines. Again, I am no expert but this is what I can figure out. The car has been sitting in an unheated garage since the 70s. It is beginning to show surface rust because of this. The body appears to be in very good condition. No major dents or much serious rust at all. The interior cloth is destroyed but, the wood work appears to be good. The car seems to be mostly there. A few parts are in boxes or lying about. The front bumper bars are there as is the tail light assembly. There is an extra transmission and clutch. The ownership was not transferred to the present owner so it will need to done before the car is purchased. It was last registered in 1976. The owner does not know what to ask for the car so she is going with $8,000 which was suggested to her by someone. She is willing to consider offers. This appears to be an excellent candidate for a restoration of a pre-war Studebaker. A friend of the owner actually started the engine a short while ago. He only ran it very briefly for fear of causing damage. I have posted a number of photos on the web at www.kgworks.ca/25standardsix I have listed most of the details and most of the photos but, anyone can call me at 902-758-1210 The owner is Lois Roach. She is presently moving out of her home which is sold. You can try her at her old home number in the next few days at 902-893-1159 or you can try her cell at 902-956-8501 It would be an absolute sin if this Studebaker was lost for a street rod. It is in much too good shape not to be restored. BTW this is actually a Canadian model – note that the Studebaker emblem on the radiator shell is mounted crooked the Studebaker crest should slant from the bottom left to the upper right. If you want this car act now as it must go before the end of June. Graham"

Being naïve, would any of the later 6-volt regulators be the same? '41-'50 Champion with Autolite; Stude part # 513615, '50-'55 Commander with Delco; Stude part # 530227 or '52-'55 Champion with Autolite; part # 531703?

I add three oz. of MMO to every ten gallons of modern gas in every internal combustion item I own. I just don't own anything newer than 1998!

Sorry I misunderstood your email, Tim. Hope these help.

Tyler, Post this on the Studebaker Drivers Club forum, but use a more descriptive thread title. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/ The AACA Studebaker forum attracts pre-war interests. Post-war Studebakers run rampant at the SDC forum. They both use the same vBulletin program.

Yep, Tim! I've owned it since November 1990 but have only managed to average 100 miles per year! Upon first purchase it had been in storage for thirty-one years so it needed quite a bit of sprucing to put it back on the road. Certainly hope that Concours works out! I think they would still pursue doing the magazine article anyway. I need to get both of the center hood hinge perches remachined for mine; just have to be careful otherwise. How did you manage to resolve your coil issue?

As I indicated in my first response, only Bob Halgren can, with approval of the SDC Board, prevent a vendor from vending and advertising in SDC sanctions. Mark indicates he's already banned from ASC. ASC and SDC are two different clubs. Unfortunately, Bob's ability to recover Don's payment is doubtful.

Assume the plater will pay for the replacement? :eek: While not exactly like factory, the brackets are still manufactured and sold by Unity. http://www.unityusa.com/

Vendors who vend at sanctioned Studebaker meets or advertise in the Studebaker Drivers Club magazine are subject to pressure within the SDC and its membership. If there is an issue with a SDC vendor you should contact Bob Halgren, SDC vending arbitrator. Failure to resolve a bonafide vending issue can result in forfeiture of the vendor's ability to conduct business through any SDC sanctioned venue or publication. Assuming you have exhausted efforts to deal directly, I would suggest you contact Bob to achieve a clean resolution.