alsfarms

Don, we all need to have and enjoy our own vision and workmanship, good for you! Dave, You could always start your own thread under speedsters and tell more of your story, details on your Paige and share a few more pictures. You have a nive car! Al

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On the bright side, if you are building a 1933 Stude 6 and need parts for your coupe of convertible, I would certainly take a serious look at this donor car . Not one word says that the price is not negotiable.

Share some specifications from the proposed Hupmobile car and a few pictures. Al

Have you had anymore activity with your Franklin Speedster? What is the windshield assembly you have used on the car? Al

Here, like even EBAY, the current price/value is what you sell it for. Anything else is just your perception of value. I think you are wise, set your first price then you show you are willing to negotiate to make a sell, not hoard parts. (I wish more were like you).

I am looking for a 48 type, year is not critical. Thanks for the reply.

I am looking for an incomplete Locomobile 6 cylinder engine, or crankcase, crank , oil pan or other misc. pieces. If you have any left overs, drop me a note. Al

I am looking for a Locomobile crankcase, crank, pan and other basic engine parts. If you have any left-overs or know of someone that does, please drop a note. Al

Does anyone on this forum know of a partial 4 or 6 cylinder Locomobile engine? I could use a crankcase, crankshaft, oil pan and other related items. Al

Hello John, Could you add a couple of nice close-up pictures of the 25" Firestone rim you have posted here. Please get a good quality picture of the outer bead ring and lock ring area as it fits against the tire and also a similar picture of the opposite back side bead area of the rim and tire. Al

John, Does this rim have both bead rings that are removable? This is what Vince needs, I think? Al

Hello George, Thanks but I am looking for a similar year GMC which is a full pressure application and has an 80 PSI limit not the 30 PSI of the Chevrolet. Al

I need a working 1942-46 GMC oil pressure gauge. If you have a spare or even a spare dash cluster, drop me a note. Al

I am looking for an oil pressure gauge correct for a 1942-46 GMC (full pressure oiled). If you have one or can refer me to one please drop a note. Al

Nice work Gary. You must be getting excited at the prospect of having your body work completed and in a very professional manner. Al

I am also curious about the reference to the fellow in the Czech republic. Can someone share direct contact info for this fellow. It may help John. Al

Vince, Have you tracked down any additional Firestone rims for you Locomobile yet? What new is going on in the sunny south? Al

I just realized that the picture from my phone, when carried over for posting here, has clipped off the area where the Dodge Bros. starter/generator is mounted. I will post a better picture later. Al

Hello John, Yes I did consider that ring gear modification option but am more fascinated with using a more period correct technology as in the "early Dodge Bros." starter/generator. A better picture is attached. When I install the engine, back in the chassis, I will find tune the mounting bracketry that will hold the starter generator. First, it probably does not matter all that much but I was not quick to make a permanent cut scar on the flywheel needed to mount a ring gear. Secondly, my lighting and Delco dual spark distributor require a battery, in this case 12 volt. The Dodge Bros. starter/generator is 12 volt, another good fit for my needs. While running I have the blessing of a charging system to tend the battery. Lastly, to hear this Locomobile engine start, is is quite fun. When the starter circuit is engaged, it is QUIET while the starter/generator rolls over the engine. You really don't hear anything, then the engine is simply running. It is not big issue but with a ring gear fitted, these old cars sound like a late model car when started. However, with all these pluses, I do realize that I will need to keep the flywheel dry, I can have no oil flinging around to oil coat everything. The serpentine belt may not be able to grab the flywheel to get a start. That "oily thing" may be a condition that I contend with. The engine does have a late model rear main seal installed so it will minimize the oil slinging around. I also am not allergic to starting the Locomobile with the manual crank either! ? Al

It is a sad statement, but how many of us do our own work, with our own hands like a good number of fellows in the 50's, 60's and 70's. SOme work, maybe, but labor costs have killed the real market of the old cars we love. We are our own worst enemies when it comes to the hobby of antique autos. It used to be that we could be happy with a clean amateur restoration where we put sweat equity into our cars. My dad used to say that big money takes over anything, and changes how we think about it....only money. I agree with Matt above, but its to bad that we have taken away the dreams of the next generation as they simply will turn away from a beautiful but unrestored car as all they can see is money to repair this and that and with not one intention of doing any of it in their own home shop. I also see another shift with all the hot rods.... big money has also taken over that sector of the hobby. I see now some tired retro rods failing to find buyers for 1/2 the dollars that it took to build them, (the market is getting saturated). In my thinking, eventually anything that can come close to a survivor will certainly have a following. If the owner of this group of Lincolns was willing more could be saved but likely will not be as our cost for hiring everything out is over the top. Maybe in Europe, labor is cheaper or many over there still do work with their own hands. I wish the best for the owners of the Lincolns and also for whoever takes on any of these cars. Al

Hello Mike, Thanks for the pictures. I need a bit more information to determine if I can make them work on my project. Regards, Al

Nice, I would like to get to that class sometime! Al

What a nice unusual piece of Frankenstein equipment and perfect for this Halloween time of year! Good luck with your hunt.

Nice update. I did a very similar project when I built shackle bolts for my early Locomobile. I had to start with hex stock, machine down to the proper shank dimension and for the end threads. This left one end still being hex shaped and about 1" long. I then drilled out and hollow drilled the shank as you did and threaded the outer end of the hex to accept a ID threaded brass cup. In the bottom of the machined out hex, I drilled and tapped for fitment of a modern grease zerk. Originally you would fill the port with grease and turn down the cap to force grease into the shank of the shackle bolt, (what a mess). I prefer to pressure feed with a grease gun to verify that grease gets where it is most needed. After greasing, simply screw on the nice brass cap and it looks the part but saves on the mess. Post a few pictures when you get more of your body built. Al