alsfarms

Thanks for the response Paul. Glad these wheels have found a new home. These wheels are close but "no cigar" as I need one single 20" 7 lug wire wheel to complete a set. Do you happen to have one or know someone that may have one? Al

Hello Eric, Just wondering if these wheels were 19's or 20's and 7 lug or 8 lug? I am in need of a single 20" 7 lug wire wheel to complete a set. Regards, Alan

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If you have any nice pictures of the early series 48 Locomobiles, please post them here. Al

It looks like you have quite a man cave going on. Do you have the floor space to lay out your project and build it up? Al

That is going to be a unique project.

This clutch looks nearly like an agricultural unit that is engineered to not slip until a certain torque is reached then it is allowed to slip and save damage to the driven equipment. We call them a slip clutch. Al

I have a few Locomobile mid teens stamped brass hubcaps (both front and rear) to trade for one of the earlier cast brass caps. Al

Our good weather, out doors season, is nearing an end. Does anyone building a speedster have good plans for significant progress on their project for this winter. I have been involved with a shop enlargement project that may take me up to the time snow flies. As a result, not much new, at the moment for speedster mechanics or progress. Al

I need a brass Rushmore headlight to use in restoring a pair for use on a car. If you have a single, please drop a note so we can share information. Al

George, Thanks for your insights regarding the P-A dual valve engines. I am sure the P-A 31's were somewhat competing with the Locomobile 38's? I am deep in restoration of the early Locomobile (probably one of Pierce-Arrows biggest competitors and not even one of the famous three P's) but I also have an unrestored mid 1930's P-A 12 project for the future. Not sure about being able to attend the Twin Falls Glidden but I do certainly appreciate your kind offer. I will see how my time pans out....and come if I can! Al

Take a second look at the picture of the above posted Locomobile cast brass hubcap. I am still needing a better cap than what I now have. Al

George, Was the Displacement the same between the single valve and double valve P-A's? Al

Yes, the 38's were very substantial when compared to the typical cars of the time. I rode in a 1915 Model 38 7 passenger touring car a few years ago. I was very impressed with the power and size of that car. The Model 38 is a brute in its own right. Years ago, I turned down the opportunity to purchase a 1917 Loco 38 parts car/project, but decided not to go that way. I rather wish I had purchased the car now! Al

Thanks for posting the picture and bit of the known history. That makes for a very interesting Locomobile. I have never seen a picture of a Locomobile with that body style. I am guessing that this car is a Model 48? I have a pair of real nice drum headlamps like these. I either need to find a Locomobile to put them on or sell them to a Locomobile owner that can use them to complete a car. Al

Hello Loco-27, Could you post a picture of a correct Junior 8 dash so we can all understand what a proper dash should look like? Al

Here is a link to a couple of very nice Locomobile related articles put together by Dragone Classic Cars. Take a read and at the bottom is a story about the 1909 Whitney Snyder Locomobile Model L . This car is the same year and style as the Locomobile I am working on currently and am just about done with the engine rebuild. The articles are a nice read with some very nice pictures. http://dragoneclassic.com/home-at-last-the-locomobile-story/#comment-5 Al

Jeff, Is a picture of the 1916 Locomobile available to post here? Al

I have a Merc Cruiser 6 cylinder 165 boat engine. This engine is the same as the typical 230 CID Chevrolet straight 6 engine. My question is this; How different is the cam in the Merc engine configuration from a stock 230 engine? It is probably more like a 3/4 race cam? I assume that the 165 stands for the HP rating? I hope a few of you boat guys have some information to share with me. Thanks, Alan

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Hello Rusty, You are correct. I will not be purchasing the 194. I am waiting for a decent 250 or even a 292. They are around and with patience I know I will find exactly what I prefer. Alan

Frank, Thanks for your postings and information. I was hoping the straight 6 was going to be a 250, but no such luck this time. Also, I did get one digit wrong in the casting number, it should have been 3833057. It may be easier to look up if the number is totally correct! Thanks again for your taking the time to respond. Alan

I am looking to purchase a late 60's early 70's Chevrolet straight 6 engine. My problem is I know what I want but do not know how to identify the engine by the numbers. I have the block casting number and stamped in number from the machined boss. Can someone help me to determine just what the engine is that I am looking at? The block casting number is: 3883057 and the stamped number is: T0504H. I am guessing that the "T" in the stamped number calls for the engine to be built in the Tonowanda Plant? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance... Alan

I am looking to purchase a late 60's early 70's Chevrolet straight 6 engine. My problem is I know what I want but do not know how to identify the engine by the numbers. I have the block casting number and stamped in number from the machine boss. Can someone help me to determine just what the engine is that I am looking at? The block casting number is: 3883057 and the stamped number is: T0504H. I am guessing that the "T" in the stamped number calls for the engine to be built in the Tonowanda Plant? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance... Alan

Well we are waiting to hear about your latest novel idea. The plumbing pieces are really starting to make for a complete engine. Al