alsfarms

Could you take a good close-up picture of the "A" and "L" that you described above. maybe that information could help us help you ID the rear end. Al

OK, I think I can see the three pedal configuration of a Model T transmission. That would also infer that the engine is a model T. hmmm the pan simply didn't look right for a Model T but it must have been a bad angle for the picture or something? Al

Just saying my thoughts, I would also keep an eye out for a donor coupe body and save the leather-back coupe. I have a very similar body in my back yard, but my leather back coupe has not been cut. Have you verified the engine number to make sure you have a 1923 and not a 1922?

It almost looks like I can see a piece of a shifter for a Ruckstell underdrive in the rear end. Split wishbones both front and back makes me wonder what is under the hood. The hood is longer by half again than a stock hood. The stretch does make for nicer lines on this car! I can see the knob of a shift handle so maybe it's for the Ruckstell or maybe it has a different transmission in it? I don't see any of the mechanical brake linkage so it likely has been converted to hydraulics, (not a bad change for the sake of safety). Now that I look at the front/side view, the pan hanging under the car does not look Model T to me. The outboard brake handle might be the shifter for the Ruckstell? I can't make out the possibility of a brake and clutch pedal, can someone lighten up the picture of the cockpit? Al

That is the signature of a "Speedster", being a design of the builder/owner. I agree, this car has the evidence of some nice home engineering on it and the end result is a nice well proportioned car. (Not stock at all) Al

Hello Jonathan, Drop me a PM. Al

PM sent

Hello John, Thanks for this note about nice Rushmore headlights. I would sure like to use that grade of light on my car. I have one very nice lamp and one that needs some repair. I will probably just have a new body built for the light I have. Al

Hello John, Thanks for the reference to the Zenith carb. as an alternative to the original and also the use of a BB-1. Yes, I agree, the BB-1 does come in many flavors for sure. What is the average CID of the Franklin engine? As per above, I have tried to fit a Zenith 63AW-11. That carb. just would not fit into the space available on the Locomobile. I want to read and research on the carb. that you listed above and see if it has a smaller foot print than the 63AW-11 that I tried. Even the BB-1 is a SNUG fit. The nice thing about the later BB-1 carb's. is that they do have an accelerator pump to make them a decent driving and reliable carb. Al

A kind Locomobile enthusiast has shared a few pictures of an original wooden spark plug wiring loom. I will share the pictures here as I can see that, even though this wooden loom is from a 6 cylinder Locomobile, a new duplicate can be configured to work properly for my 4 cylinder Locomobile. I hope to soon receive pictures of the cast brass brackets that are used to mount this item to the top of the Locomobile jug. Enjoy.... Al

Hello Don, Have you tied down a suitable chassis from which to build your version of the Locomobile 16 race car? Al

Thanks for your update on this beautiful pair of Rushmore lamps. Someone should be knocking on your door! Al

Nice pictures of one of the nicest design brass era headlamps. If I didn't already have a pair of the same thing I would be speaking to you about these. Are these just polished or are they also coated? Al

Hello Mike, I can't see real good about the fit between the thread gauge and thread but I am thinking 32 TPI. Your expert eye will have to make the call. Looks like you are making progress on the pump set-up. I have missed much of your restoration and have not sat down to read through all the postings but I plan to maybe this evening. My question is this are you choosing to have any of the small items powder coated? Al

On you question about undoing a silver solder joint. It should not be bad at all. Silver solder, depending upon the grade, should be less than the melting point of brass. However, thin was brass requires some care to not blow a hole through while the heat is soaking up the fitting. I actually REALLY like silver solder. It is fun to work with and is very strong. I assume that you have experience with silver solder and I would suggest what has been suggested to me, if you are ill at ease, make a trial run with similar materials and doing the same thing but are not out anything is it turns to a failure. That is a most interesting pump arrangement. I am anxious to see it polished up and assembled. Al

I see that the thinking of our NZ friend has merit. Adjustments could be made to the original casing to accommodate subtle changes that are desired and even to include the adjusted mounting. What a fun puzzle to put back together. The one side would not be too bad but the back would be a different story but is an option. Probably the big issue would be sourcing a new impeller, even that could be doable potentially with a new MFG unit then cut down to fit and shape the blades with a lathe. hmmmm...... Al

Hello Joe, Now I get a real concept of what your water pump is all about. I will get you an OD measurement of the brass pump to allow you to make sure that the OD is not to large to fit in your available space. Al

Hello Joe, I see what you are referring to regarding the Mitchell water pump. I can't tell from the picture, but is your original pump brass or aluminum? Have you had it open to evaluate the impeller and case for wear and damage? I am with you on a modification to allow for this pump to be removed without getting into the front gear chest. I will give you my "2 cent" thought on your pump dilemma. I would explore the probability of rebuilding the pump you have, making a change to the design of shaft and coupling shaft and possibly relocating if needed. If the internals are at least rebuildable, it would be easier to build a new discharge fitting and brazing that back onto the original pump case. Yes it is a split case but you have the skill set that the repaired discharge fitting could be faced off and be as good as new. After all this system is a low pressure design. I can't see the water inlet port, is that inlet in good shape or is it broken also? I have found that, with rare exception, is is easier to rebuild/repair original that start from scratch. Al

You are doing an impeccable job on your automobile. The Humberette will certainly last well into the next generation with the careful restoration you are doing. Interesting the work you are doing on the lubricating pump and system. I am currently working over a hand air pump and system that allow me to manually pump and pressurize the fuel tank on my project, for starting, then have provision to use engine compression to maintain pressure in the tank to keep the car running. Keep up the good work. Al

Its nice to learn something new about later Locomobiles. Thanks for the information. Here is another question. Was these McFarlan built bodies for the large series Locomobile or for the new Durant design cars? Al

Nice work Gary!

Good Morning Don, Have you read through the chat located at the bottom of the Locomobile section? There is a nice write up on Locomobile 16 and also some information about a surviving Locomobile that is the same Model as what I am currently restoring. I will send you another PM. Are you in the path of the huge snow storm heading for the east coast? Al

Nice idea you have shared. The vintage of my car may only be more suited for some form of machined or cast mounting hardware.

This is the brass pump. Al

Here is the cast iron water pump. Al