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mikewest

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Everything posted by mikewest

  1. Buy the brass 1/2 round stock thta is lead filled ,cut the end on a long angle and file to make the points and get chrome plated. Not a horrible job.
  2. I just this week knocked in the head a 1930 -147 sedan . What do you need ?? I have nice tin including welled fenders ,splash aprons, gas tank apron,and piece under hood front. Mike 585 738 1541 mwest729@aol.com Thank you
  3. Will a Lincoln 12 trans bolt to a early Ford V8? I know is longer but thinking it would be a nice improvement to A Driver Ford Flathead.Of coarse you would need to go to a open drive line or shorten the tourque tube and shaft. Thank you Mike
  4. I have a rear axle assembly now thanks to Mark in Rockford Ill. Thank you to everyone that responded!
  5. Still looking for a complete early style Dodge Brothers rear end assembly 1915-20 (Full floating style) Mike 585 738 1541
  6. mikewest

    Pistons

    Lincoln, If you need the snap on hubcaps I have plenty of them ,if you need screw on caps ,I only have a 2 . Please advise. MIKE
  7. Johnny ,are you building a brass era or steel rad speedster? I have a right hand drive hogs head and the the special casting for steering column, The hogshead is aluminum and ribbed pedals or lettered..1915 and earlier Mike
  8. Here is a truckI restored and built for my dad ,a 1933 Franklin Model 163.
  9. The safe way to remove the head is pull the whole jug assemble and push it off using a tool easily made from a threaded rod and some flat steel. Cut a piece of strap steel that can be bolted to the cyl base.Drill a hole in the center of the strap steel and weld a nut in place. Next get a piece of 3/4 or 1 inch threaded rod that will thread into this nut. I use a piece of hard wood cut so it will fit in the cyl so when you PUSH the head from the jug it will not harm anything. This is the extreme case ,as most heads will pop off withn out too much effort at all. Ive heard of shade tree mecha
  10. Send me pics and Ill get you a price. We are located in NY ,will that work for you? mwest729@aol.com
  11. Do you have patterns? Nota huge job if you do. I have a man that can make entire new fenders and has made several sets for me ,but he needs a pattern. Mike mwest729@aol.com
  12. Pat. Ill take the light for my car, Mike West NY Zip code is 14487 Please adise where to send money to . Thank yoou
  13. Glen,I was at the shot and Rick has been on vacation and will be until Jan 2nd. Mike
  14. odat, Keep in mind that wood work and metal work should be done with the chassis mounted on the body,not horses. The fenders should be "worked" mounted to the frame(front) and the rears need to be bolted and worked attached to the body.All the tin on the car needs to be fitted at least twice before paint ,making sure of proper fit, alignment,and correct body line gaps.With the fenders bolted to chassis,make sure all the apron ,running board ,and fender holes are a SLIP FIT for the new hardware. This work may damage the paint on your new chassis. I have worked bodies and fenders on a restored
  15. I have jugs and heads as well original copper head gaskets in gd condition if needed. Mike mwest729@aol.com
  16. OLDSTUFF, Plesae give me a call or a email Thank you Mike mwest729@aol.com
  17. Gdenton, I think the good people are more concerned with lost lives,homes ,jobs and everything they own at this time.
  18. Hi Bob ,Im looking for a complete rear axle assembly. Can you still help? Mike 585 738 1541
  19. Glenn Ill take the monocle .I have a friend with a small brass car that can use it .Im still waiting for a reply from machinist .Thank you Mike
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