E_Johnson

Sponge grease is fibrous grease. I'll you do your own homework via Google books - click on this link: https://www.google.com/search?q="sponge+grease"&sca_esv=a7c4cc63e26e5a70&sca_upv=1&biw=1600&bih=731&tbm=bks&ei=OILiZZy4G7uIptQP_YC2qAw&ved=0ahUKEwictIf8t9SEAxU7hIkEHX2ADcU4ChDh1QMICQ&uact=5&oq="sponge+grease"&gs_lp=Eg1nd3Mtd2l6LWJvb2tzIg8ic3BvbmdlIGdyZWFzZSJIphVQAFi3E3AAeACQAQCYAW2gAYYLqgEEMTIuM7gBA8gBAPgBAZgCCaAC9AbCAgUQABiABMICBxAAGIAEGArCAgQQIRgKmAMAkgcDNi4z&sclient=gws-wiz-books

In my opinion, due to the configuration of headlamp brackets and the because the kerosene sidelamps are black over steel Dietz, they are probably from a truck, not a passenger car.

In-or-Out Auto Shade, Dunn Manufacturing, Clarinda, Iowa. It's a combination window shade/awning. Click this link and look in the trade journals: https://www.google.com/search?q=In-or-Out+Auto+Shade+Dunn+manufacturing&sca_esv=602041652&biw=1600&bih=731&source=lnt&tbs=cdr%3A1%2Ccd_min%3A1%2F1%2F1900%2Ccd_max%3A12%2F31%2F1935&tbm=bks I have a friend with a Willys Knight that has window awnings - don't know if they are of the same manufacture.

A master vibrator ignition coil is an after-market accessory that could be used on any car that had a high-tension, vibrating coil/one coil per cylinder ignition system, not just Model T Fords. Ford adopted a standardized and more reliable ignition coil design during the 1913 production year so owner-installed master vibrators were probably more common on Model Ts that left the factory prior to that change. You can learn more about master vibrators as they relate to Model T Fords here: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Amtfca.com+"master+vibrator"&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS983US983&oq=site%3Amtfca.com+"master+vibrator"&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg60gEIODA5NWowajeoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#ip=1

1907 REO Model A touring.

Click on this link to see correctly and incorrectly installed chaplets inside a tire - page 324: https://www.google.com/books/edition/Audels_Automobile_Guide_with_Questions_A/To1qsxrtkMQC?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=chaplets+tires&pg=PA324&printsec=frontcover

Some wooden wheels on early cars had wedges inside the clincher tires that pulled/pushed the beads of the tires against the rim. It helped secure the tire to the rim. If you have a Dyke's or other early automotive enclopedia, it should explain how it all works better than I can. An early automotive book on my shelf refers to the wedges as "chaplets." However, I don't think they are really needed today. What you have are merely decorations in order to make the car look more authentic. Click on these links to see what this looks like: https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1210907/1904-cadillac-model-a-for-sale-in-morgantown-pennsylvania-19543 https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/cadillac/model-b/1904/857197

Minerva exhaust whistles don't utilize a cutout. They slip over the end of the tailpipe and have a flap at the end that closes when you push the pedal.

The photo is most likely from the 1940s or 1950s based on the wide lapel suit the gentleman is wearing.

It's a 1906 Ford Model K as I posted earlier.

1906 Model K Ford

That is the bottom of tiller bracket, pitman arm and drag link on the driver's side of the car for the steering system. The headlamp is not connected to the steering system - it is stationary and mounted on a forged bracket. Below is photo of the of the front axle showing the above as well as the driver's compartment showing the nickel-plated tiller and tiller bracket. The bottom portion of the tiller bracket on the underside of the floorboard was originally painted black over the nickel plating but my father left it unpainted.

I'm not an expert and don't know what the spec is for the car in question, but I would think that if you turn the key to the run position without actually starting the car, fuel pressure should be around 45 PSI and, once it's running, it would be slightly lower. As you are aware, with the vacuum line is connected to the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pressure should remain relatively constant, regardless engine speed/rate of fuel consumption. If you disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator, pressure should vary with engine speed/fuel rate of fuel consumption. The fuel pump might be bad or it may be a case of low voltage or a bad connection or ground. Fast leakdown could be a bad check valve in the fuel pump, a leak anywhere along the fuel line (although I think you would smell that), a leak at the fuel rail or one ore more leaky injectors.