mikewest

Yes.

Joe , when we are all dead and gone....the new owner of your Mitchell if is a detective like we are, is gonna say MAN This car must be a PROTOTYPE MITCHELL ! One thing for sure , he shouldn't have to fix anything!

Good idea.

Thanks for the comments. Nothing looks worse that to look under restored car and see cad or zink plated hardware.

I just had a email to checkout Graingers They have low strength, black and no head markings. Exactly what I want for fenders, splash aprons , running boards ect. Nothing looks worse that hardware zink plated with hardness marks and sloppy black paint on them. Thanks for your reply!

Im reinstalling restored fenders on a 1930s Franklin . I want to use black oxide hardware 1/4 and 5/16 inch and some 3/8 inch diameter. Who sells Black oxide?? I really prefer no hardness marks as well. Any ideas? Mike

Thanks Al .,I have a video (a short silent movie) Id post of my grandfater driving it if I thought it would take. Same to you Al. Have a great new year!

I just ran across this old newspaper clip of me in my Crestmobile at the Warsaw NY car show in 1979. I had a new Ford F100 that carried the Crest and I tow bared a 1931 Willys Knight sedan to the show. I bought the Knight in Hemlock NY not running but was assured if I installed new sparkplugs it would run...... I soon found out why the plugs were fouled... At any rate , I won two awards , one for each car. The Knight smoked so bad , a show official had a few helps push the car to the street so I wouldnt gas anyone around. I was quite proud to show my iron back then and glad I still have the 1902. Happy New Year to Everyone! PS The same car in the 1940s with my grandfather at the tiller at a local parade. He bought the car in 1939. The last picture is my dad driving the car at Watkins Glen NY Concours DeElegance 1956.

The car checks all the boxes today. The "Survivor Cars" are and have been hot for years, its BRASS and its a ROADSTER. It should break 100K in a overdrive. Just my opinion.......

How many forks do you have 1 or 2 ?

I LIKE IT! Id like to swap the guy some "Run of the mill" iron for it. It would sell in Livonia!

They just sold 3 of them at auction downstate NY , They were all under 1000 each. warehouse finds.

Here is a nice T-head Sterling made in Buffalo NY . The motor for my 1911 Sterling chain drive speed car. Its a bronze base as well. No oil pump , splash system. Above all the cam and main bearings are wells cast into the case so she is gravity feed. Its dual ignition. It should make a good power plant. It came from the office of a friend, Bob Kern, founder and CEO of Generac Corporation in Wisc. He bought the motor in the 1970s from The Henry Ford Museum at a collection decommission of excess goods. He had his boys take it completely apart and " give it whatever it needs" Its never been started since . I dont approve of the color..... oh well I change that. ( I dont know why the images came out turned)?????

Did you get my pictures ?? Mike

So the car is a friends 1910 XXXXXXX with a Continental motor. The motor had a old repair in the casting under the top water jacket plate into the cylinder. It was stitch welded that was successful ly sealed for many years. Now the car bubbles in the radiator and the water turns milky in a hour of running. I would like to bead blast the area clean and put additive in the coolant in hopes to seal it. Or maybe add a sealer in the water jacket area??? His thinking is the block sealer will not work because when the car is running its going to push the sealer out . Two different welders have looked at it and they dont want to touch it. The casting isnt that thick and worry they could make it worse. I used a product IRON TIGHT years ago. Rebuilding shops use it when the rebuild motors with wet sleeves and want to be sure the sleeves seal well. . PLEASE ADVISE My friend is 80 and his car is 112!!!

I have a great original 1930 AA steel shell (extra deep) and a like new radiator. This is the Heavy truck shell that was painted steel ( not stainless steel) and the bottom edge is straight not pointed down like a 31 shell. They cam together with the rad bolted in the shell but looking at the rad it looks like a normal thickness to me. Its in excellent condition. I want $400 for both. Mike West Livonia NY 14487 585 738 1541 If anyone is interested Ill post good pictures. Ill post some pictures this week of the shell and rad.

If he was to place a straight edge over the top of the rim and measure down to the where the tire sets , double it and subtract that # from 26 inches we would all know what size they are. Im interested as well . Im guessing they are 24 inch because the rim looks taller than .5 . I hope he responds.

You are correct if you didnt know that Lycoming made the motors for American Lafrance. Have a Merry Christmas Jack!

He says in the ad MOTOR IS AMERICAN LAFRANCE. Where is the mystery here???

If you enlarge this picture you will see the same cap. This was my 1905 about 10 years ago.

1905 cross engine for sure . Most likely earlier and even 06?

I know Hook. He is a upstanding guy . The answer to his question is - It doesn't make any difference!

Not correct but thanks

Recieved the ignition switch and well satisfied/ Thank you Mr Buick!

Does anyone seeing this have a key for sale that will fit in this switch ? Of show me what one looks like? It shouldnt be too hard to make one if it will come apart without too much effort. Thanks Mike