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About hook

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  • Birthday 05/13/1945

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  1. I picked it up at my PO box today May 29th. I didn't visit the post office yesterday, so it could have come in then. I live in southern Delaware.
  2. hook

    Franklin Models

    Gentlemen, among my many vices is "0" scale railroading. As a result I have come across many interesting automobiles in 1/43 scale. Although I haven't found a Franklin, I have found a car very similar in looks and style. If you go to Ebay and type in 1934 renault solido you will find a car that looks like a Franklin town sedan with a series 19 front end. Also on page 297 of "The Franklin Story" by Thomas Hubbard there's a one page clip about models. Then of course if your just interested in the last car that Franklin had anything to do with, at least the power plant part, there are many Tucker models out there.
  3. Matt, I was just looking in some old Air Cooled News magazines and found a little explanation of the first airplane hood ornament on a 1927 Franklin and I thought of this question on the forum. You might want to check it out. Air Cooled News #110, November 1990, page 11. You can look it up on the Franklin website. Bill
  4. hook

    Oil cooler?

    Paul, thanks for bringing the pump rod, pump lever and cam lobe wear up. I have found the same on mine. Now if I could just find a way to take care of the wear and tear on my bones, I'd be in great shape. Bill
  5. hook

    Oil cooler?

    One more thing on the fuel pump. It's possible to ream out the holes on the linkage, arms and diaphragm shaft and use larger pins. This would remove the slop and make it perform like new again also.
  6. hook

    Oil cooler?

    John Mereness, one of the biggest problems with the 1929-1930 fuel pumps is the multiple plate linkage in the AC pump which of course they did away with on the new AC design for 1931 and on. You can't find new replacements for the linkage and the only way to fix it is to have them made and heat treated. This will give your pump new life and allow it to pump the volume and pressure like new again. I accidentally came across an old shop that had a brand new set still in the wrapper and I rebuilt my pump and wow, what a difference. As far as the oil cooler is concerned...Franklin doesn't need it! I've driven my 31 in 95 degree weather and it did fine and even kept it's oil pressure where it should be. I know we're concerned about global warming, but I don't think we'll need oil coolers for about a hundred years or so!
  7. Sorry about the number system of (10)(11)(12) in the previous reply. It actually means (10) & (11) are the top two Photos. Bill
  8. Here's my 2 cents Here are 3 photos of a 1930 dash that has not been altered for 88 years (kind of obvious) . I wiped off the dash in photos (10) & (11) with cleaner to take the pictures. It looks like the grain was very straight and ordinary, similar to your first two photos and similar to Dicks photo's of the back side of the 32. The center panels were also like the panels in your first two photos with the burl grain going horizontal-vertical-horizontal. Bill
  9. Cutting the woodruff key slots in the axels is a job any machine shop can do.
  10. Any machine shop that can't broach an inside keyway for an inch and an eight dia. isn't a machine shop, I can do that and I'm not a commercial machine shop. The problem is the length of 4.25 inches long. Standard inside keyway broach bushings are 2-3 inches long for that dia. You will need to find a shop that's willing to make a long broach bushing and the corresponding shims for that length plus an extension piece to push the broach through. This won't be an easy task to find for what you would be willing to pay to get that keyway. You may be better off finding another brake drum or look into a restoration shop with machining capabilities. In either case it won't be inexpensive. I agree with Paul about looking for a shop that specializes in broaching, not just a normal machine shop.
  11. I think there are too many good rims available to worry about repairing one. Also the cost of repairing the damaged rim would probably cost more than another rim would cost. I'm sure there are many club members that would help you obtain another rim. Bill
  12. I'm ready to read all the replies on tires, but I don't think I'll touch it myself. It' kinda like getting into a discussion on oil! Good Luck Bill
  13. Paul, I'm with you on that. My first bout with split rims on a 30 Chevy without the rim tool back in the sixties when I was a teenager. My thought then was "what idiot invented these things?" Then I learned about the tool and got one. What a revelation! It's amazing how well things go with the right equipment. Bill
  14. John, I've never had that much trouble with lockring rims. BUT, I've never had to deal with 8 ply tires and narrow rims and I don't ever wish to. The thing that worries me the most is inflating them. I know it's only 35-40 PSI but a lockring can be deadly even at that. You need a lock on extension air hose and plenty of room (or a cage which is better). Bill
  15. Your removing the rim from the tire. It sounds like your not pulling the rim inside itself far enough with the rim tool. It really isn't that hard to remove the rim from the tire, tube and flap assembly. Remember that after you pull the rim inside it's self with the rim tool you do not take the tool off the rim before removing it from the tire. Some times you may need to re-position the rim tool, but it's used to hold the rim in smaller for ease of removal from the tire. Bill