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Everything posted by bradsan

  1. Larry Forgot about the headlight bar! Jake All 25 Buick ( and McLaughlins) look jacked up because the original 4.50- 5.00 x22 tires are no longer available and the only current available option is 6.00x22 which looks just fine on a Master but a bit oversized on the Standard. 1925 only!
  2. Larry, It sure does -wood dash veneer , the front bumper brackets( but not the bumper - that one is interesting ) , chrome windshield stanchions and what looks like a combination stop/taillight. I can't zoom in enough to see if the taillight trim has the same design as the headlight trim. I don't think it does. Looks almost Model A. Has the coil bracket on top of the S/G too - athough the coil is a modern one. And the colour is pretty close to the McLaughlin blue as well !
  3. Here you go if you haven't already found it !
  5. Leon You are a lucky man to have a car that can break down on the road. All of mine seem to be stuck in the shop and a looong way from breaking down on the road! 😒 I'm sure it isn't anything serious. Brad
  6. Leif I remember you sending the picture of the new project. being dragged out of storage. Looked like about a 3-5 year plan That was 'only' 1100 hours? You work fast! Is that a testing facility? What is it's purpose, I hope it isn't emissions testing! Nice work as always! Brad
  7. I suspect that it is a mechanical system using pivoting weights and springs and the principles of centripetal (or centrifugal depending on your frame of reference) force. You will find it under the plate holding the points and condenser. That is what our 1925 Std has . Brad
  8. Leon Those are some nice looking side curtains ! The car is not to shabby either , never get tired of seeing a photo of it. I cant remember , did you reinstall the 'asphyxiator' and if so, is it for show or go? Brad
  9. Ron I'm glad the block was put to good use. Thanks for the detailed description of the side curtain workings. I guess the only downside to the glass side curtains is that once you've decided how to venture out for the day, you can't change your mind! Unless you tow a storage trailer behind you. I'm going to guess that your car also has the exhaust-powered floor heater. If you have the heater, did you make it functional? I have a spare heater from a 25-21 but Mr Safety says I'm not allowed to install it for fear of asphyxiating the passenegers Brad
  10. Ben I believe Ron's car is an original 25A which meant it came from the factory with a 'California Top " or , as it later came to be known just plain old 'hardtop' ( okay , the windows don't roll down like they did from the 50's onward but you get the idea!) Why they call it a California Top when California seems like the least likely place you would need a hard top with glass window side curtains is beyond me. Seems like they could have picked a better name for a jurisdiction where the soft top is least likely to go down like Michigan Top or even, dare I say , Vancouver Top! Brad
  11. Larry That is what i recall as well. I can only think of two reasons they would do it 1) an elaborate way to prevent bottom hose collapse 2) It helps to support the assembly and prevent wear on the pump bearings by picking up the weight of the pump. I think 1) is wishful thinking! Brad
  12. Hugh That is correct. No pad on the block, no studs . I seem to recall that there are two different crankcase casting part numbers shown in the Master Parts List,; likely for this reason. Our engnie is 'before'" by serial number and the our spare engine has it and is "after". I have a spare crankcase wit the pad and the studs an I though about swapping it over but I'm not certain which problem I am trying to solve and what I might make worse! Brad
  13. Ron Not only do they likely function better than the soft top side curtains but they look about a 1000X better from an aesthetic point of view! Do the curtains ( windows is more like it ) actually open with the doors without extra effort ? Or are there snaps to undo first? The 25A is a nice looking car. I think it belongs in Vancouver BC where it rains all the time and folding tops are quite impractical! Brad
  14. Larry That's a pretty important piece of information on the gasket thickness at the front gear bearing to crankcase bore . I'm printing this off and attaching it to the rebuilt pump that has been sitting on my bench for five years . Just in case I ever get around to putting it back together! Our is an earlier engine without the additional lower hose support. A running change apparently . I'm afraid to try and find out why they thought they had to do that! Brad
  15. Marty The description says Model #27 . That would be the small series 115" WB By 1929, Mclaughlin's were pretty much identical to the US Buicks except for the badge on the radiator. If you wanted a Buick , you could just swap the badge and no one would be the wiser unless they saw the Oshawa tag on the firewall. Still a good deal even in CDN pesos. Brad
  16. Hugh (and Dave) Wow . Never ceases to amaze me the detail you come up with. I sure hope we get a chance to use this information at some point. Brad
  17. Roger Long time lurker and admirer of your work. Auburn had the same device on their 1932-33 models and even issued a factory service bulletin to retrofit 1931 models for owners who were complaining of front end shimmy . Their part was called a 'kick shackle' Seems like a common early 30's solution to solid front axle steering geometry issues. The adoption of Independent front suspension seems to have cured the problem until the death wobble appeared in 90's Jeep and Dodge products! Brad
  18. Just want to say I come here everyday to look at 'my' car. Plus, commenting makes it easier to find the post! I sure wish someone would hurry up and buy it and put me out of my misery.
  19. Hugh very nice work as always . Window frame looks awesome!!
  20. Hugh The rivnuts are a great idea! Rather than oxy acetylene why not just silver solder . Even better why not natures miracle JB Weld?, You are just going to polish this right? No plating. Why not try a test and see how the JB Weld holds up? This part is not structural after all. Brad
  21. Hugh That new yoke looks awesome! As far as the magnets go, I can't imagine that remagentising is any different than the process for the magnets on a Model T magneto. Lots of info for DIY magnet chargers for Model T's which have the same u-shaped magnet , just bit more hairspring shaped than the U shaped speedo magnets. Check the MTFCA website and forum. Some guys even redo the magnets on the car by pulling the hogshead. I made one and did our Model T ( while it was apart !) . The tool is currently at the other shop or I'd send you a photo but, as I recall , it wasn't much more that a couple of 4" pieces of 1" dia steel rod and some wire. You make two electromagnetic coils with opposite windings so when you tape them together side by side you get opposite polarity at the adjacent 1" dia ends . Figure out which end of your magnet is N/S with a cheap compass. Same for your coll set up . Make sure you mark it with felt because it does get confusing...trust me!. Remember opposites attract so you want N to S between the the two magnet poles and your coil ends . Use a 12V car battery to apply some current to your coils. while each pole of the magnet is in contact with the appropriate end of each coil You just have to be judicious with the length of time you have the current flowing; it doesn't take much to over heat it! I'll bet it will be more than enough to restore function! If you can't find anything online , let me know Brad
  22. The original accessory trunk was made by Potter Mfg. It will not say Auburn on it unless someone added a sticker!
  23. Randy Yep, I've seen one in my parts box! Part M1-229 - Muffler bypass control assembly! Definitely not a rear end control. If nothing else, you will sure sound a lot faster! There is some good info on the ACD Club website forum discussing rear end options: As the proud owner of a static display, I'd leave it alone and just have fun driving it. It looks awesome Check your PM. Brad
  24. Randy The gas/oil gauge faces always rust out. I think it is due to some sort of bromide solution in the hydrostatic fluid. if and when I get around to that particular project on my bench I'm going to try and clearcoat the crap out of the face and body. Stan Gilliand used to have replacement faces available but only in 25 Gal the last time I checked. 1931 had a smaller tank and should be 20 Gal...at least I think that is the case! Brian Joseph at Classic and Exotic has replacement sight glasses and fluid kits. Not sure about the availability of knock-off hubcap wrenches. They are pretty simple hunks of metal . If worse comes to worse , you could probably find a helpful ACD Club member to lend you one for a pattern and a brass foundry could probably cast you one. Don't use a hammer, the hubcaps are very dear and l have plenty of examples of ones that have been beaten to death due to a lack of a wrench ( or the willpower to fish it out from under the seat !) Very nice car by the way . If you want to save yourself a lot of work, I have the same car that is already mostly apart and all the hard work of finding the issues is already done. Maybe you want to trade straight across? I mean you've already lost out on the adventure of buying a car in boxes and bags. I could help you with that experience! 😁 The ACD Club forum has lots of good info on it as well. I like the trunk BTW and somehow ended up with a second car just to get an original trunk with the original fitted luggage. It's a long story,but I'm sure everyone here can understand how that could happen. Brad
  25. Hugh Pretty impressive! I think some TIG welding should make an invisible joint after grinding and polishing. Brad
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