bradsan

Reactive? Typo or ???? I kind of like it . Keeps us guessing. Sort of an 'approach with caution term'. 😀

There are relatively inexpensive 4 position marine switches available that do just that . Positions are well marked and easy to read too . Problem might be the esthetics of being bright yellow and red. Not sure what their current capacity is as far as 6V systems go. Just realized that I used 'inexpensive' and 'marine' in the same sentence which means I'm probably wrong about something.

The flat bladed screw driver .....but only for its intended use of course ! All other unapproved uses ( about 98% of them in my shop ) are just fine .

Curious if anyone has tried replacing the inferior modern paper condensers that are causing the problems with a modern capacitor to just eliminate the problem completely ? 0.22 MFD 600V mylar or polycarbonate capacitor will apparently do the trick. I was trying to see if I could fit a modern one into and old condenser shell in case the judges ever pulled the distributor cap off . Not too much of a problem given the cars are a longer way from driving to the field! Here is a post from 2015. I had more questions for KCLDODGE but, unfortunately, I do not think he is with us any longer. In my comment at the end , I think i was trying to ask if a 250V rated capacitor would work as I think I could almost get one of those in the old shell. He seemed to be saying that the 600v was plenty . I'm presuming the condenser doesn't really care if it is a 6V or 12V system Brad

Kevin Great work on the tank. Our fuel tank fitting bolt had no plug, I think it is only on the vacuum tank fitting to allow you to prime the tank If I'm not mistaken, the lettering on the fuel gauge face was etched as opposed to stamped . Crazyfamily on this forum did some postings about how to do this. Or you could contact Nostalgic Reflections if you have a bunch of spare cash! https://www.nostalgicreflections.com/auto5.html I might have a spare fuel line banjo , I'll have Cousin Jim take a look. Should be the same as Master and Standard ( but you know how accurate I am with that kind of information!) Brad

Darn , I promised myself. Oh well. I want a vehicle powered by a plutonium fueled SMR .. but I can't have one 😒. There 's the government for you. Yes I know its comparing apples to cyanide but it's illustrative of the issue . The Biden comment simply makes my earlier point about the government picking winners and losers though; and how that is typically accomplished by people with the lobby money . The dealerships that are crying foul are the same ones that have successfully lobbied every state government to limit who you can buy a vehicle from. Every anti-direct sales piece of state legislation creates a dealership subsidy that you are paying for but no one is complaining about that. I suspect the dealerships are really worried about the warranty/service gravy train drying up. Take transmission and engine warranty work, oil changes and brake jobs out of the equation and that is a lot of lost income. It is definitely not in their best long term interests for them to sell you an EV. For the record , I think EV's are technologically fascinating and are the future. I'd love to have one but I don't see one in my immediate future. The F150 Lightning would suit me perfectly but I don't have $115k Cdn Pesos and I don't drive enough; the amount of fuel my 1997 F150 will use over the rest of my lifetime will never produce enough CO and CO2 to offset the carbon cost of an new electric vehicle let alone a more fuel efficient ICE vehicle. Not that I don't have concerns about EV's Between the battery pack, the LCD tough screen instrument panel and the computer need to run it, when Teslas do become vintage vehicles , they will be a restorer's nightmare. What happens in 25 years when you can't up date the operating system in your 30 year old Tesla and the charging station only accepts V.2.3.45. See, I have some old iPhones! One more video , Tesla's front and rear structural casing and the structural battery pack are very interesting but making the pack structural means it will never be repairable like their older pack . Watch Munro and Associates try and take one apart. Yes , there are batteries under all that foam....somewhere! But who knows, maybe you'll be able to 3D print the whole car in 20 years!

Every time I read the title of this topic I do a double take as I keep thinking some brave soul started it with 'Where'. Don't want to hijack the thread, maybe that is a new topic? Except someone is reading over my shoulder 😇

Waiting long enough so I could have the last word😁 Somewhere back in the four pages , there was a comment on repairability. NA insurance companies like to write of everything these days because nobody seems to know how to repair parts, they replace parts. Insurance companies seem to write off not only Teslas, but any new vehicle if they are so much as looked at sideways. It doesn't help that Tesla salvage values are very high because they still repair things in Ukraine. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjU5-zo1OeCAxUSJH0KHYZWC_MQFnoECAsQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.wired.com%2Fstory%2Fwhy-teslas-totaled-in-the-us-are-mysteriously-reincarnated-in-ukraine%2F&usg=AOvVaw0v757gG4lhh0UV3xLSv0Im&opi=89978449 Apparently , the overseas market is affecting the NA battery recycling manufactures as they are not finding the anticipated volume of material. As far as the economic argument goes, you can't complain about EV subsidies without acknowledging how much your favourite fossil fuels are subsidized; lots of different studies out there on how much but it is neither zero nor insignificant. I'm sure I could find one that would claim the subsidy on the lifetime fuel consumed by an ICE vehicle far exceeds the current EV subsidy but you know what they say about statistics and internet studies. We've long lived in a modified capitalist society where the government picks economic winners and losers. Typically the winners have the most money to spend to get what they want. Whether one accepts the current science as a basis for the government's offer of EV subsidies as a justification for subsidies has been tackled before on this forum and likely isn't worth getting into again Lastly, to bring us back to old cars and smiles, if you haven't seen it already, here's a really good analysis of the original topic by Superfastmatt. I think he's a former Tesla engineer. Hope you appreciate his sense of humour as much as I do. Maybe check out his Jag conversion videos while you are a it! The only thing he hasn't tackled yet is a tractor but he way he goes at things I think he might be eminently qualified. ( Ed?) Brad

Thanks to Stude Light for his list of LEL/UEL and bringing to my attention that the only gas with a wider range than hydrogen is acetylene. Yes , I have an oxy/act set in the shop. I can't honestly say that I knew the LEL/UEL of that gas. Photo of recent service truck result in our area. Parts were landing in a playground a couple of blocks away Maybe I should put a LEL/UEL reminder sticker on the set. Make sure the tanks are off !

In respect of Mechacian's comment . Consider the effect of social media on the reporting of such claims. Prior to this forum , I never would have heard about this accident or any of the other prominent ones that have been posted here in the past. It might simply be that you now have access to information that you would never have had prior to this. Perhaps the cause of the loss of enthusiasm is the result of too much information! It's always been the same risk, you are just no longer blissfully ignorant😁 It would be an interesting question for Hagerty or JC Taylor on what their actuaries tell them on trending accident rates in the collectable / antique world. You can bet they'll know and it will be reflected in the rates they are charging you. I don't think there are any new lessons. Newtonian mechanics is unforgiving. Drive like everyone around you is an idiot ( because they surely think you are!). Know you and your vehicle's limitations ( and accept you will inevitably forget at some point and be the idiot ) Bottom line: by modern standards, prewar cars are not remotely safe , early post war cars are only slightly safer , 60's 70's cars meh , modern cars very safe but you will always be safer getting in an airplane or even better by ditching old cars , taking up skydiving as hobby and jumping out of them. 40,000 annual traffic deaths per year in the US should make you think about risk acceptance before you get in any automobile let alone a vintage one. Vacating the soapbox for now!

ND = New Departure ( or sometimes NDH with Hyatt added) which, if it wasn't by then , eventually became GM's in house bearing supplier. Just think of it as a brand name like BCA or TImken. ND numbering for the era was pretty consistent for their front wheel ball bearings : Complete assembly 9090xx Yours would be 909023 Cup 9096xx Yours would be 909623 Cone 9095xx Yours would be 909523 Ball and retainer 9097xx Yours would be 909723 I'd be surprised if the BCA cross reference numbers didn't include some element of the ND numbers so I'm not liking the reply you got. Instead of B24 I think you should be looking for a BCA B23 to match what you have. B24 is likely correct for the inner set but i think what you are showing is the smaller outer set. Both the 909023 and 909024 series were also used on 1929 to 31 small series Buicks according to the Master parts manual . Pretty sure that there will be a size difference as the smaller number will be outer and the larger one inner Be glad you are not looking for the '003' we need for 1925 Buicks! Brad

As I read the tech article all newer springs post the 1950's use the SAE 5160 steel and greasing is a no-no. Their website says that all of their leaf springs are made with 5160. I have some difficulty accepting the claim that grease can attack steel , doesn't quite compute in my brain, but then I'm not a chemist or metallurgist . Would be interesting to know what they think of products like SlipPlate ( graphite paint) . I suspect they'll say now ans the springs are designed to function with steel on steel friction But it can't hurt to wait for Mike to confirm that is the case!

Eaton has a great spring tech section on their website. Here is what they say about greasing springs. ...apparently, it depends on the steel used, which is usually related to when the spring itself ( not the car) was manufactured https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/greasingsprings/ Also, powder coating is bad for the temper Brad

Just a comment on the photos of engine numbers you have provided . I'm not an Olds guy but I'm presuming that Olds followed Buick and others at GM as well as most manufacturers of the period. The numbers you have shown ( 888888-1 and 399859) are not the numbers that Ted is talking about . The numbers you are showing are casting numbers and will be the same for every piece (block, head,etc) that comes out of the same series of casting. The number Ted is talking about will be stamped on a small protrusion of the block casting the sticks out past the head. It will be on the same plane as the top surface of the block or 'deck' as its called in North America. Hopefully Ted can send you a picture of what you should be looking for . Whoever decided to stamp the head casting number on your ID tag did not know what they were doing! As a word of caution, I would be a careful with posting full pictures of titles with other's personal information and your full vehicle information. You may want to edit that one picture. or remove it! The regular users of this forum are by far a friendly honest bunch but everyone in the world can view this forum and at least some may view it with bad intentions. Brad

Link? Tried to search FB Marketplace. What a gong show!

It would be interesting to see if adding the missing splash pans actually corrected the problem too. Maybe what we've been calling 'splash' pans all these year are actually 'PCV' pans.😁 Epic detective work and astounding patience.

That looks like the stuff It is a lot thicker than most modern underlayment and has a 'tar' feel to it . Measured my roll downstairs and it is about 0.056" which matches the 0.060" thickness spec in the HD product. Notice they also have a 30# roll that is 0.1" thick if that better suits your needs. The last time I bought a front end hardware and antisqueak kit from a vendor, the antisqueak they used even had traces of the felt guidelines on it ! The stuff I bought matched the vendor stuff in every way except I had to do my own cutting! Brad

Home Depot stocks it up here in Canada.

Glad you are trying to keep the original motor in it . Just a reminder, to add to the list,it would also be a good time to get the crack in the block properly fixed 😁. Search for Frank Casey on this forum. Interesting thought on insert bearing conversions, if you go that route, make sure that you don't pick an obscure size of insert . I fear that the availability of ICE parts is going to drop rapidly in the near future. Babbitt will always be a rebuild option! (And now I can hear my Dad saying how far do you think this vehicle is going to go after it is rebuilt!) New pistons are available from the custom manufacturers like Ross and Arias. They can usually supply rings too. Hopefully , you don't need them. Not sure of the current pricing . Probably $1500?

To answer some of your previous questions that I don't think were addressed . Apologies if I'm oversimplifying as I don't know your level of experience with babbitt bearings. The bearing material is missing from that rod. Unlike modern insert bearings ( still babbitt material but much thinner and attached to a replaceable thin steel shell) , these are poured babbitt bearings. White metal is heated and poured directly into the rod end that is held in a jig /mold. The poured bearing is then machined to fit the crank journal. Check the neighbouring rod and, hopefully , you will see the difference. Further to Frank's excellent comments: - the caps and rods may be numbered or otherwise marked , look on the sides for center punch marks. As already warned, don't mix them up! - many manufacturers thought ahead about the skill of the labour on the assembly line, the cap might only fit one way. If Nash did this, try it both ways and you will soon be able to tell as the edges of the rod and cap won't line up one way - It could just be the photos but there appears to be a nub on one side of the cap and the rod . If there is only 'nubs' on one side of both cap and rod, that is probably how they line up. - most manufacturers that used poured babbitt ( mains or rods) that did not use laminated brass shims between the cap and the rod and the cap and the block for mains. This allowed for bearing take up over the service life of the bearing. I don't see any shims in your photos . If they are not there , it is a definite sign that someone has been in there before you and may have taken out too many shims leaving you with a bearing that is too tight , thus the failure Another thought, your rod bearing appears to be pressure fed from the main bearing ahead of it I would be checking for any blockage in the copper oil pump distribution pipe seen in your photo as well as the cross drilled hole between the main and the rod journals on the crank As I see it, your options are to: 1) If all of the other 7 rod bearings are okay ,(IE plastigage for clearance and condition-wise), then you could try to pull the offending piston out the bottom ( it will likely come out that way and , If you can get a ring compressor on it in that position, it will likely go back in but as per Frank's comment , maybe not so easy!! ) and send the one rod off for rebabbitting. You could send them a neighbouring cap in good condition for a machining pattern IE side clearance Pros- this will be the cheapest. If you just want to have fun tootling around town, this could give you years of fun as poured babbitt is pretty forgiving , even on a slightly scored journal. Cons - You should probably check clearance and condition of the mains too to make sure you aren't completely wasting your time. You also need to find where all of the fragments have gone so you are going to be spending a lot of time on you back under the car. 2) pull the motor, disassemble and see what it needs Pros - It's not a V12, you will end up with a reliable engine and a great car if you get it to the right shop. Cons -Its not an inline 4, it will be expensive . Your block is already cracked , maybe you can find another engine to rebuild? See Matt's 38 page Lincoln thread for the worst case scenario. I'd give 1) my best shot Brad

Rod bearing. Not good. Go Fund Me is an option but I suspect you will be better off buying lottery tickets ; which is to say you are going to be breaking open the piggy bank. With that amount of bearing material missing , it is unlikely you are going to get away with just rebabbitting the rods. Minimum crank has to come out . Others will weigh in on why the babbitt completely disintegrated. Either poor babbitt job in the past or oil starvation. Went back in your posts and noted that you did drop the oil pan and cleaned it up. Did you find any bearing material when you cleaned it up ? Might inform you if this was an ongoing problem or something new. Was the oil pressure okay during your run?

I linked this thread of Ted's to a post in another sub-forum on the site. The request was the timeless one for a wood kit for a brand that wasn't Ford or Chev. Rather than hijack another's thread, I though I'd write my reply here where all of the fans would see it. I've got a wood bodied project that I've been staring at for the past 40 years ( inherited of course! ) and over the years I've built that wooden frame at least 100 times in my head. It will be a real challenge, as the wood for patterns is incomplete; although I think I've got at least one right or one left of every part🙃 The first question I remember asking of marque specialists when Dad first got the car was 'Where do I get a wood kit?' The second question was "Where do I get factory drawings of the wooden patterns?" The third question, and, strike three was " Where do I get a good book on how to do automotive wood working ?" If there was ever a really good practical book being written on how to tackle automotive wood working , I think Ted's posts are the becoming of the book I was looking to buy . Not only this post on the Olds but the other posts he has contributed to ( like the finger jointing bit discussion) . Can't say again how much I appreciate the time and effort Ted has put into detailing what he does. ( Like so many others posting their adventures in this sub). Gives me hope that I can complete a project ...or where to ship it if I can't! I may be missing other good posts on the same subject by equal talents that have disappeared down the screen into history. I know they are only a search away but it does make me wonder about the potential for pinned subject collections in the Technical thread. More importantly, if you are a member thanks for paying your dues and if you are not , consider becoming a member because books like this are priceless. Brad

Ted I was wondering if you were still thinking of becoming more involved as a business, I think you mentioned this a few years back when a business was up for sale . I think you would have no shortage of customers! Brad

As you probably know, or have found out, there are no 'kits' for Buicks. In addition to the above, see Ted's posts under these links for step by step instructions!

Bijur is still in business on the machinery side of things. Rubber lines of various lengths are available from vendors of Bijur Delmion. If you email them, you can probably still get a oiling diagram for your Nash that shows all of the fittings. I suspect that the rubber hose is to the front axle for the king pins as per Auburn. If its 12" long , the modern part number is 'B4863: Bijur 12" Flex hose SC'. I got mine from Fluidline. Auburn diagram attached