JohnD1956

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Everything posted by JohnD1956

  1. I think you just have to take apart all the terminals and clean them all. Battery, terminal blocks, Solenoid plus all the ground straps including the one at the rear of the motor to the body. If it spins sometimes and not others and the battery has passed a load test then it might be corrosion under the terminal ends gumming up the flow of electricity at the solenoid. JD
  2. I dare say it isn't legal. If the print is legitimate, it has to be from the Sloan Museum, and there would be only two ways to get it, one is to buy it, but the description of the seller indicates that may not be how it was acquired. What a shame. Also this particular seller has been the topic of some discussion in other forums. I hope the bid process continues as it has so far, throughout the rest of the auction. JD
  3. I agree, just set them to the spec recommended as best you can. I don't know about those pushrods that don't rotate. Do you know what makes them rotate? Is it the lifter that rotates or just the pushrod? I imagine if there is no rotation there is a chance they have worn a seat right into the lifter. It might actually require replacing the lifters to get them to rotate again. Unfortunately to get the pushrods out to check them you'll have to remove the rocker arm. But there are no gaskets there as far as I know so it's not a hard job. If you do pull the push rods out, be sure to put them back into the same port they came from. But I wonder if you did pull them out, can you then reinsert them upside down and get the rotation effect? It really depeneds on how the ends are made. I've seen pushrods with small ball bearings in each end and they were indeed omnidirectional. But going back to 38, and with nothing from personal experience, the pushrods may be cast on the ends ,and may only go in one way. This may be worth a try. Can you get that camshaft cover off and see the lifters in there? Compare one that you know rotates with one that doesn't rotate. Make sure the top surface of the lifters are identical with no major wear that prevents the rotation. The next Upstate Update will be out shortly. That will have directions on the chapter and how the dues etc will work. I'll let Kne and susan know you cannot make the holiday partyu. I look forward to when you can join in the meetings and such. It will be great to see the car. PS: how's the brakes coming along? JD
  4. Keep in mind that this is valve train noise, not valve noise. The tappy sound is probably normal. Did you have the valve cover on with the hood closed before deciding it was making more noise? I would check that out before going too bonkers on this. Also, I think Tommy was joking about pulling the hood and sitting on the radiator. Talk about danger to unreplaceable parts. I don't care how slow an idle you get the fan blade will still be spinning. But I understand you do have to do this with the engine running. It's been years since I did one and once you do the first you'll see that the rocker arm does not deviate so much as to make it impossible to keep the wrench on it while the engine is running. Also as to the noise, think of it this way. What you are actually doing is creating a gap between the valve and the rocker. That in turn makes a place for metal to metal contact and a ping. If you don't hear that ping ( tap) then you will risk having the valve left partially open while the engine is running leading to backfire at the carb and the exhaust. I'd recommend you live with the tap noise, it's part of what makes the 38 so special.... JD
  5. We had the traditional turkey , candied yams, Smashed potatoes, mixed veggies, stuffing, green bean cassarole, rolls, followed by my own homemade apple pie. But besides that I took some time today to crank up all the Buicks. The meal was fantastic, and the cars sublime! I just love listening to em idle! Buicks sound so nice ( except the Riviera which is normally so quite you need to look at the tach to see if it's running) . JD
  6. $9,100 and 22 bids with 3 days to go. Pardon my french but WTF! Are people blind! I agree with the 100K estimate on restoration and you just have to ask if it's worth it. Probably won't even be restored, it will probably be parted. JD
  7. Just a note to you and your's for a Happy Thanksgiving, from my family and I. It's such a pleasure to be a member of this great forum.. JD
  8. Congratulations, Nicely done. I have yet to get under my 56 and check that heat riser. But I'm already running a 160 stat. Can't wait to check it out. JD
  9. I may have the models wrong but I do plan the V6 with the bucket seats. JD
  10. Thanks John, but I have another set of heads as well as the exhaust manifold. My spare heads came off a motor with close to 190K on it, so I guess I'll send them to a machine shop first, and when they are ready I'll tear it down and replace all those gaskets and the exhaust manifolds too. All I need is 9 months of SUMMER, right now (as he's freezing in NY state) JD
  11. Thanks gents. I do think that it's a beautiful car. Although I haven't seen one yet, we did test drive a Lacrosse, and if the Lucerne is as quiet as that, then I'm in the market for sure. The Buick site Doug and I looked at had a list of standard and available options for the car. I'm thinking I'd like to have the CXL with the v6, as I can't stand the thought that the starter for the Northstar V8 is under the intake manifold. That just seems like an expensive repair waiting to happen. the only thing I'll miss is the fog lights. JD
  12. May sound totally stupid, but make sure you have gas in the tank. My 56 would run out every year on me at least once because of erratic fuel guage. Happily I can now say that is fixed. JD
  13. Philippe, I don't have technical information, I only have experience. I have not had a 67 or 68 430 motor. I have had 4 69 big blocks. The time tested one went 199K Then I put another motor in the car from a 130K car and sold it. Neither of these had piston slap that I knew of. The other one I currently have is a 69 electra 430 with 120K and I am having some problems, mostly from not using the car. When I used it daily it did not have any problems either. The engine I had with piston slap was a 78 Buick 350. I bought the car used, and the original engine needed a set of lifters. That engine was quiet on start up but the lifters kept dropping when I used the car for about an hour straight. I brought it back and the dealer convinced me he should just drop another engine in it. The replacement engine had I don't know how many miles but it had the piston slap from day one. The engine was purchased from Wilberts in Webster NY and Art convinced me that the engine was solid and would never break down. He may have been right but I couldn't take the noise. Since I had never heard of piston slap before that I tried numerous things to eliminate the noise. All to no avail. Put several hundred into it too but it still made that fluttering noise on occasion and it made me crazy. This was the engine my friend told me had alloy heads and the heads were known to be problematic. This car could not get out of it's own way. I liked it for it's styling but I was completely dissatisfied with it's performance. Then I bought an 79 Lesabre wagon with the buick 350. I know the car had been for sale for three months, and it was parked on a hill front end up. I figured if any engine would make noise it would be that one, but the day I stopped to look at it it started right up and was completely quiet. I bought that car and drove it about 10K and it was completely different than the 78. This car moved quite nicely and I loved the way it drove. The lifters in that one would drop too after about three hours drive but then they would come back up. I never could figure that one out so I just changed the lifters and was completely happy. Problem was I liked the 78 Electra better than the 79 Lesabre Wagon. So I swapped the engines and sold the wagon. The guy who bought the wagon, now with the piston slap, drove the car almost 50K over three years. He was a scout master and that car was loaded to the hilt many times and he loved it. The noise didn't bother him one bit. Then the "good" engine in the Electra started leaking antifreeze into the cylinders and I gave up. Traded it in on a Ford Conversion van. I was just so pissed I wouldn't touch another Buick at that time. Of course I came back to Buick in 1993 with the wifes Regal. And havent heard piston slap again. Sorry I couldn't give you more technical data than that. JD
  14. Which Carb is on the car, there could be three of them. The 2 BL, the Carter 4 BL or the Rochester 4 BL. This information will allow us to give you information on how to refurbish the switch. JD
  15. $1,500 is being taken for a ride in my opinion. The timing chain and gear set with gaskets would probably come in less than a hundred dollars. The typical mechanics rate for this job is three to 4 hours. I wonder if you can find a set of 72 heads from a 350 and bolt them on the engine? Here's a few more things to keep in mind. The heads on your engine are some metalic compound. The 70 to 72 heads are cast iron. The compound heads may blow out the head gaskets due to differences in the heating and cooling rate to the other engine parts, but a set of head gaskets is not that expensive either. These engines are also prone to piston slap from out of round pistons. Before you dump $1,500 in the car I would recommend the timing chain replacement and then see if the thing will run. At that point you'll know if the engine has piston slap. If not, just have the head gaskets done. You may be surprised how long that Buick will run on it's original build. Here's one more thing to watch for. The water pump does not have to be removed from the timing chain cover to replace the chain and gear set. There are 4 larger hex bolts which do have to come off but the smaller ones can stay put. And you are probably better off if you leave them put till you get the chain cover out of the car. The smaller bolts have a tendancy to get corroded in their sleeves due to the oxidation between aluminum of the cover and the metal of the bolts. Chances are on an engine that has sat a while disturbing one of these will result in breakage. However if the cover is out of the car very often you will find the stub is sufficient to grab with vice grips and twist out after generous application of a penetrant such as PB Blaster. Meanwhile I would also recommend the water pump be replaced along with the timing chain set. The pumps are like $20.00 and when you have it out the bolts can be coated with an anti-oxident compound to prevent this seizure in the future. I got something from an electrical shop meant to prevent corosion between the copper and aluminum wires. I just put a little of that on the shaft of the bolts befor einstallation and it keeps things free for a long time.
  16. Is the original one still on the carb? You may find that to be still okay. They can be taken apart and cleaned and reaassembled ( without lubricants) and will continue to work just fine. And it's not rocket science, but it is a cool feature. JD
  17. Is this where they would have put the automatic headlight dimmer? JD
  18. I agree you need to bypass the starter button first, but then you need to consider the history of the car for the last few years. Has it sat a lot? is the battery several years old ( a weak battery cell will drop out all of a sudden and that starter needs all the power it can get). Are the battery terminals clean ( this includes those on the junction block on the drivers fender and the solenoid? JD
  19. Don't be offended Big, but your screen name is what is most likely wrong with it. A wobbly timing chain and gear set. Luckilly it's a Buick so the parts are inexpensive but it will cost a few hours labor to do the job. However, know that this engine was the lowest rated HP of all the options in it's day. I had one once and it had a ton of trouble getting up steep hills without pulling the shift to 2nd gear. Meanwhile others have reported a fairly spirited car with this engine. Also, that head gasket could be shot too. A good friend said once " after 73, thats when Buick started doing all types of crazy things with their engines." The recommendation? Find a 70 to 72 Buick 350 engine. Put in the new timing chain and gear while outside the car, and then drop that baby in there. I'm pretty sure thats a bolt in operation. That would make for one nice car. JD
  20. I'm sure it's a lifter. The only other thing might be harmonic balancer but wh9le this noise might go away after a few minutes I think it would come back during use with no real regularity. Since this is on start up, my vote is lifters.
  21. And that makes a lot of sense. I don't think you'd find anything like that today. Todays executives would probably fire anyone who tried to do someting to improve morale. Either that or shift the entire work process to some off-shore company and then complain when the economy back home is grinding to a screeching halt. Sorry, I get so upset with the way some things are today. I think it would be great to have some of these older traditional things available again. I live rather close to the Schenectady County airport. This is a small private airport with quite a bit of history and current activity. As I understand it , it was the first airport in the Upstate NY area and Charles Lindberg landed here in one of his earliest country barnstorming trips. Anyway, for the last 3 summers the County has thrown a hangar dance. They hire one of the several big bands still plying their trade here and they have a open door dance in one of the hangars in July. What nostalgia! Gotta love it. July here is perfect at night. JD
  22. Whats the top speed on your 38 then? 90 MPH, isn't it? Still 25 MPH faster than 99% of the USA roads I suppose. But did you see the post in the "general" forum about the 48 Super with an aftermarket Turbo-charger? I bet that puts a strain on the ole clutch and rear. Still I wonder if the Turbo Charger gives you more top end or just quicker top end??? JD
  23. Is the engine running smoothly while you hear the tapping? If so I think it is just a lifter. Antifreeze may have gotten into them when you had the leak. I agree it is not a bearing, otherwise the noise would not go away. You many have to change the oil again, and several more times too. If there was antifreeze in the oil pump and in the lines and lifters when you first changed the manifold gaskets and the oil, then it just got pumped right back into the crankcase when the engine was started, and contaminated the oil again. JD
  24. Man, that is so neat!. Judging by the background, it looks like a factory sponsored Holiday party. Correct? That floor looks like it's been clear coated! What songs did the band play? That was one thing that was so impressive with the Centenial meet, all the music venues, especially the steel band that played down by the 56/57's. those students were absolutely fantastic!!!! JD