JohnD1956

On the waterfront in San Francisco! Also in Sedona AZ. The Riviera club went there a few years ago and I had to forgo that trip with a lot of regret.

Some of the towns along Route 66 might be interesting. Or Chicago, Il. Chattanooga, TN. even Dayton, Ohio, near the air musuem. Of course I say this, but chances are I couldn't afford to make all these trips.

That's gonna be a sweet car when you're done. Are you keeping it the stock colors?

There are two chapters of the Buick Club in Mass. The minute Man Chapter in the East ( Boston), and the Central NewEngland Chapter in the middle around Springfield. Further south there is the Yankee chapter in Conn . And in western Mass ( the Berkshires), there's the Upstate NY Chapter in Albany. BCA membership is a requirement first, but well worth it. Let us know if any of these are near to you and I'll post contact info. Good luck.

careful if you have the flywheel turned. I did that once not thinking about the required thickness of the part. In my case the flywheel became too thin and after a short run time, the springs on the clutch hit the bolts holding the flywheel on, thus poping the car out of 2nd all the time. You really don't want to do this job twice in a few weeks time.

Sweet, Lovin those Supers... Come to think of it, that could be a country song. Sweet Lov in those Supers! Remembering how it used to be. Just me any my Lady and a 60 inch tv. Blah blah blah...

Oh man, what a beauty that is. Those lines, that stance. This really is a great car. You spent some time documenting the bad parts. What are the good things? Does it run, and move on it's own? How about the brakes and other mechanicals. We've seen Adam take the 58 Limited and put it back together, so there is proof it can be done. It's guys like you and Adam that give me inspiration. Now if we can all just get someone to give us some money too.... oh well, Another thread for another time. Best of luck to you on this. I'll be looking forward to seeing how you handle this.

Great thread. Hope you can find the resources to overide the preservation issues before you put it back together. Just so you don't have to take it apart again.

Hey Richard. A very nice car you have there. And an interesting subject, which has been bantered around a number of times on this and a lot of other forums I'm sure. The final answer is, it's your car, do what you want. Just for the record though, if you convert to 12 volts you cannot call the car restored. And if you stick with 6 volt, make sure you use heavy guage wires for everything, especially the heaviest wire you can get for the battery to starter. Good luck, and post some pics. We love to see these era cars. '

Congrats Keith. It is a beautiful car alright.

EGR valve. And how did they get a candy bar past the locking gas cap?

Hey Gary. I have followed your threads on Yoda but have not responded much since I have little experience with 50's. Your posts remind me of my 56 a number of years ago. One thing after another and frustration trying to get it roadable inbetween all the problems. I hope you get all this straightened out without much more problems. If it's any consolation, when I had this similar rough time, it seems all of a sudden the car started to straighten out. Seems the more I drove it the better it became. And I'm not sure if this is the right procedure or not for adjusting brakes but it's what I learned and always have done: Start by backing off one adjuster wheel all the way. Then count the clicks while you adjust the brake and spin the tire by hand. When you hear the scraping, hit the brake pedal to center the shoes, then go back to adjusting till you feel a drag on the tire. Then back off the adjuster a few clicks. Then do the rest of the adjusters to the same amount of clicks, center the brakes and then tighten or loosen each adjuster till the drag feels the same on each wheel as that first one. Unsure if this will help but I do wish you good luck and a Happy Thanksgiving

Did you ever back off the adjustment? I wonder if the brakes are overheating and fading because they are scrubbing on the drums all the time? Also do you know what material the brake shoes are made of?

Actually the Special down under looks to be a 53, and dirty too.

Are you kidding about selling the Gran Sport?

That 4 note horn sounds like the Amtrack train going through.

Is it possible that one mount is in upside down?

Hey Lamar, that's interesting that your picture has one of each model. a Roadie, Super, Special and a Century.

Factory new RIVIERA scripts for last gen Rivs. These are new scripts still in the factory package. They are chrome plated. Prefer to sell as a pair. $35.00 plus shipping for the pair, or separately, $20.00 each plus shipping Contact by e mail: jdefiore@nycap.rr.com or phone 518 384 7807

The casing on this mirror is in very good condition, but there is no mirror. The automatic adjuster motor is still in there. Never tested it but I see no reason it would fail to work. This is the automatic darkening, without heater setup. See the pics below. Reasonably priced @ $35.00 plus shipping. Contact by e mail: jdefiore@nycap.rr.com or by phone : 518 384 7807

That is a nice car. Thanks for posting Pete.

Off white color. Very good condition. Looks to be a re-pop. No rips or tears topside. One small tear bottom side, by one snap. Note the coding on the underside. Appears to be full size GM, and I believe it came off a 67 Buick, but I do not know for certain. See the pics below with the measurements. $45.00 plus shipping. This is competitively priced at least 50% less than a new one. But this one does need additional cleaning. Couldn't hurt to have a spare at this price, but please make sure of your measurements, as any sale is final. Great X-mas gift for the Buick guy who has everything. Reach me at jdefiore@nycap.rr.com

Your absense was conspicious. Glad you and everyone are okay.

Mike, You lost me when you started calling the switch a relay. You do mean the starter switch on the carb, right? If so, these switches are usually very reliable. Cleaing the one on my 56 meant taking it apart, wiping it out and reassembling it without any lubrication. The manual described it. Do you need the section from the manual reprinted? Maybe someone here has the 53 manual or I could shoot you the 56 manual version. But the 56 switch looks slightly different than yours. ps: I'd be careful of todays chemical on that older baklite plastic. I know the stuff is tough but I once sprayed electrical contact spray cleaner on a power door lock switch from an 84 Chevrolet and the entire thing melted in my hand.

Also clean your ground straps between the engine and firewall. Actually, it appears you have some cracking of the insulation on your starter switch wires. Are they corroded internally?