TheMoneyPit

Southern Yellow Pine is good wood - I believe it but at the time everyone said ash or oak.

The tail lens with the metal "Stop" insert looks like the one used on Hall brand tail lights - they were made for DB, Hupp, and many others incl aftermarket. The diameter is going to be the key.

When I re-did my 24 Special 6 I used oak plywood - once covered with linoleum on top & painted with flat black on the oak side (which went down) you could not tell it was plywood. Moving forward from there you can get a good router table and do what Scott suggests - it migh be cheaper as the price of furniture grade plywood is high too.

The wheels look like somethhing AAA of New York used in the teens, but there were MANY service groups and smaller local service organizations that eventually were killed off by AAA. My guess is it fits into this category as all of the ones connected to AAA would have had that on the badge.

Restoration Supply lists a reproduction Durant but I think it will be the earlier shield version which would be easier to repro - the late ones have too much detail in the dragon at the top so it would be more obvious if reproduced. I talked with Pete - he'll bring the shell to our T Club's annual meeting and come up with a price which I'll pass onto your e-mail address. You may not want to pay the shipping on the shell - it was really bad or I'd have taken it for a display board.

Same thing only different... that one is near the Chevrolet script. A good friend offered me a radiator shell with an emblem on it, but I declined it as I have both color variations in my collection - I do not remember which variation it was. The shell was in VERY bad shape, but the emblem might be OK. Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll ask if he still has it - I'll be seeing him on Sunday so I should be able to PM you again on Monday. In the meantime they show up on e-bay frequently, you might do well there too.

Gold & Blue or Blue & White - like the one at the rabbits foot?

I would venture the "B" shift knob is an aftermaket accessory item - or monogram

Try asking in the Studebaker area too - i think it migh be from a Light-6 in the early 20's

I fully agree with Steve's comments - I'd do what was needed to be a safe good running car and place it in the HPOF class - that is one of the best looking original car's I've seen. I too would love to have a shot at buying such a great car!

Shriner's ornament & it looks like it is on a generic (aftermarket) cap for a Model T Ford - what is the thread size & someone can confirm it.

I've been meaning to reply again for a while, but bad time of year to do it. Anyway - here are pictures of the 1925-28 Lion and the 1929 cap which was made by cutting the lion off at the cap, adding a round domed cover, and chrome plating to cover over the repair. The third picture shows the inside of the cap where you can see it is hollow like the original lion and the cap was a separate piece added onto it. The cap is still marked by the manufacturer (Sterling Bronze Co. New York) but the copyright, which is normally opposite the "Aura Vincit" banner, has been polished to a point where it is no longer legible. As I understand it, this was done due to the sculptor keeping the copyright for the lion and Franklin, having fallen on hard times due to the depression, did not wish to pay a royalty for each lion produced. I think the 1929 caps have a larger base but are similar in appearance to the flat one (Someone can correct me here - I'm no expert on Franklin cars) and then they started using a stylized wing in 30 on the Airman models. Regards, Mark

You should include a picture of the back of the neck - where it should be marked if genuine...

Looks marine going by the manual lever (broken) to work the clutch.

I think the fenders are "eye-brow" fenders and are also accessory - they are completely seperated from the body - no splash shield visible and 2 mountnig irons to each. Very stylish set-up...

The Model T is post 1919 as there is a battery below - but it is a replacement body so it could be any year up to 1925 when the wheel size changed. You may be able to date the body by posting the question on the MTFCA forum.

I like the Ford T sticking it's nose out - looks like a 1912 to me, but could be earlier or later as there were differences between US and UK cars. I agree that the main car in the picture is an Overland - as Layden points out the script is there - I can't think of another company who did that script stencil the same.

I'd also try and see if the pedal car companies made anything that size for amusement parks - that looks a lot like the high-end pedal cars of the 20's. I'd love something like that from Santa - I'm too old for the Speedway Quarter midget he brought when I was 8... And too big.

I do not think it was a bumper-car, but rather one that was on a track where you could only get so far from the center of the road - there used to be one at Kenobel's (?sp?) in PA but the cars were later. Those cars also had the huge bumpers so that you could not hit anything to hard as to cause injury.

I'm pretty sure Yellow-cab had the lights mounted up-high. There was also a radiator shell on e-bay several years ago that had the radiator emblem mounted to the right hand side of the shell so i could be seen from the curb. It may also have had a plate attachment there as well - I wish I'd kept pictures as it was unique to say the least...

Could ask how many times the Ford Motor Car company went bankrupt - his first had no backing - his second company became Cadillac - it was his third company that survived.

Bruce McCauley's book "Model T the car that changed the world" has a pretty good listing of the tools including the "Z" tools. There were 3Z tools and 5Z tools and I think there are 18 and 21 as well.

I'm thinking three-wheeler motocycle - or early cycle-car. What size tires on a Brownicar??

This is a loaded question, but 1940-Buick is right. It is just not an easy answer. There are more 1915's on the road now than were in 1915. You can fake one from any car chasis up to around 1919 when the electrical systems were added to the T. Therefore even e-bay sales will not really help as they could also not be genuine 1915's. About 10 years ago I paid a premium thru one of the Model T parts suppliers to get my 15 roadster - a genuine 15, but since that time I've seen people pay up to 15k for an unrestored fake one. Add pictures here and/or at one of the T club websites - MTFCA seems more active - and that will give a better picture.

Location, condition & price?