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The reason for this post is my curiosity over a 4-cyl Silver Dome cylinder head advertised on ebay by an AACA forum Member Cord Blomquist. The ebay item is 352246106246. The part number on the head is 318904. It seems to be an early MoPar number but I cannot find it in my Dodge or Plymouth parts lists. I no longer have my old Dodge Truck parts lists. Perhaps 4 cyl Merchant Express? Anyhow, I thought this item might be of interest to someone. Click to view photo 318904 Silverdome.psd

https://tommackclassics.com/11-1932-chrysler-imperial-dual-cowl-phaeton/ 1932 Chrysler Custom Imperial 8 Dual Windshield Phaeton 1932 Chrysler Custom Imperial 8, model CL, close coupled sedan that was needlessly rebodied into a fake dual windshield phaeton Serial 7803456, motor CL1184

This number, 543154 is a Dodge truck part number and you will have to consult a truck parts list to find it. My May 1947 MoPar Parts Supersedence List says to use #580634 in lieu of #543154, so at first glance that doesn't help much. However when i look up 580634, a long list of superseded part numbers is given.

For reference, 1951 Chrysler C52 New Yorker, Detroit built, is #7165001 through #7199900 Very common to have cars of that era titled to the engine number. Inspector can verify engine number and add a notation with the serial number on the door post. The term "VIN number" didn't come about until about thirty years later. The engine number is stamped on top of the block, behind the water pump.

Do you have the doumentation/manuals? If not, i may have and will donate if I do.

Yes, the 1934 Dodge DR and 1934 Chrysler CA coupes have an extension welded to the cowl to move the firewall farther forward.

What is the approximate year and make application of a Bragg Kliesrath type G valve; documentation? Also looking for a Type AP. Thanks

1933-34 Ply did not use chrome r/s step ring.

You could swap in a 1934 Dodge DR passenger car engine. Outward appearance the same, google for specs, later Ply-Dodge speed equip fits including cyl head

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When I sell something to fellow hobbyists over the internet I try to put my self in their place, make them feel at ease by furnishing photos and pertinent information so that they have confidence in my ability to meet their expectations. A prideful, haughty and brusque attitude is not a good calling card.

Good luck, when I asked Mercer to email me a picture of a prospective title he refused, said I was a trifler and he didn't have the time to waste. In reading sone of his posts in order to gain some understanding of his business practices he seems to be someone to avoid. Dan

Yes this is an old thread . . Good luck Fred, when I asked Ron to email me a picture of a prospective title he refused and said I was a trifler and he didn't have the time to waste. Dan

https://fstoppers.com/originals/photobucket-debacle-shows-us-danger-relying-free-services-182200

I doubt if the rear fenders are a reliable indicator because some automobile manufacturers offered both styles.

Here is a 1932 Chrysler Custom Imperial 8, model CL, close coupled sedan that was picked to the bone for parts, then its grandeur was restored by Dr Paul Engelmann

Here is a 1932 Chrysler Custom Imperial 8, model CL, close coupled sedan that was needlessly rebodied into a fake dual windshield phaeton Serial 7803456, motor CL1184

Did this car sell at Auburn 2017?

Any luck with follow up of Karr Mfg? Thanks

Still available

What is the raised letter code on your truck engine cylinder head?

This truck engine should be the same as a 1934 Dodge DR passenger engine, shares same casting number and cylinder head

Location? Price? Engine/motor number? Left side of block, stamped into a pad below the head If the motor number starts with T, then it is Dodge Truck http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html If the motor number starts with D, then it is Dodge Passenger Car Engine casting number? (raised numbers on block under the starter) Cylinder head Casting number: 620027-1 What are the raised letters on the cylinder head? Such as DR?

GOOGLE on electrolysis. Use a mixture of 1 oz Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda per gal of water. Fill the tank with the amount of solution as required. Place a large diameter bolt or rod in the sending unit opening to serve as an electrode and insulate it from the tank. Don't let it touch bottom. Cleaning the inside of a tank requires reverse battery connections. Use a conventional battery charger, hook red to the electrode, black to the tank. Low amperage will work but don't try to use a trickle charger. Let it set 4-5 hrs and shut off the power. Withdraw the electrode and wipe it off. Re-insert it and repeat. After a couple days the tamk will be clean. The garbage will migrate to the electrode. This is what I use successfully. Others do as they wish, such as molasses.. I tried to avoid the discussion of electrodes and anodes in order to keep it simple.

The sketchy Hollander listing for 117C includes 660668. I suspect that is in error, very sure it should be 600668