edinmass

Wouldn’t break my heart if it sold above the high estimate! I think you can remove the 1 in front of the rang and still be on the high side...........it’s a wonderful little roadster.......30hp just doesn’t make those numbers happen.

The auction estimate on the White roadster is 150k-170k............I will watch the sale with intrest.

Nice car, it was on the field at Pebble this year. Spoke with the owner. This is a “typical” small White........which is very well made and a decent driver......but cars under fifty horsepower I have no interest in collecting or owning. I’m a big car snob........

Thanks fellas. The car has what looks to be new fifty year old plugs in it. The tubes look like they are new, but I’m certain that they are not. This car has been sitting since 1961 or 1962. We only want to pull the plugs to oil the cylinders before it goes up for sale.........

Today I have a visitor at the museum, who owns the worlds best collection 1932 & 1933 V-16 Cadillac’s. Great guy, who actually drives and uses his stuff. Cant post names, but I’m certain you know him. He just added another 32 V-16 to the mix.

Jon, it’s been a while since is did any Caddy 1932-1937 units.....but these are available new right now. 1932 V-12 units........... they are also making all 1932-1937V-12 & V-16 units. Nice people. I worked with them years ago on the Packard units...........

telriv...........Remember back in the 70’s when 10 seconds was “light speed”? Times sure have changed. Hell, we laughed out loud the first time I saw a Honda Civic at the track. After a few passes, we did t laugh anymore. Not my cup of tea.........but they sure make strange thing go like hell today.

George.......my leaf blower is battery operated! By city bylaw! I’ll get a cheap socket and grind it down........

Jon, it’s funny reading your comments that you will need machine shop service to rebuild a carburetor. To me, it’s normal and assumed that every pre war unit needs to go on the mill. Every unit we do gets placed into the jig and is squared up...........and that is one reason our rebuilds are so expensive. Set up time even with experience is time consuming. We just don’t do the gasket surfaces.......we do ALL the factory machined surfaces over again. Right now, if anyone needs V-12 or V-16 carbs from 1930-1937 I know where multiple used sets can be purchased. I don’t own them, but I know who has them on hand in inventory available for sale. Yup they are EXPENSIVE! But they come with a guarantee they are good usable cores. In the end, when one considers authenticity, performance, and ease of use.........I find 99.9 percent of the time factory units are best. Problem is most guys with a 1932 Hupp don’t want to do a 2000 dollar rebuild of a good UUR2. If your missing a UUR2 and need one correctly set up it’s gonna run you around four grand today. That’s a Pebble Beach quality job........and it’s the only standard we work to.......and I understand that takes 80 percent of the people out of the running for their driver type cars. We do try and help out people as often as possible......but we just can’t touch a carb with JB Weld holding it together............liability today is insane, and life and limb is more important. I’m a purist at heart.......and it’s ten times harder to make a early car work without modifications than swapping things out for “upgrades”. I find properly sorting a car and making it run 100 percent the most gratifying part of the hobby. Cars serviced correctly stop, steer, start, shift, and perform much better than most people realize in the era. Fact is, so many people drive cars with very bad habits they have no clue how a good car drives. .

32buick67.......thanks for the input. I literally have 17 Snap On sockets for spark plugs and none will do the job. I thought I was missing something. I’ll get a cheap socket and grind it down.........looks like it’s gonna be very thin when I’m done. 👍👍👍

I see a lot of younger guys buying high mileage LS junk yard motors, installing all new gaskets, tossing on a turbo, and getting their relatively inexpensive toy to go very fast..........so I think the big LS craze is economically a way for people with limited funds to make a big change up for working people money.

The magic of 3D printing hasn’t come full circle yet. The scan and go directly to metal printing item doesn’t exist. It takes a talented draftsman and engineer to make things come out right. Gary was very generous to help me out several times, and I actually took time to see if I could get a set up and try to be able to do it in house. Fact is even if I learned to do cad-cam and scanning; without an engineering background there are just way too many variables that take education and YEARS of experience to get things to come out correctly. Understanding how the original part was manufactured, how 3D printing works, 3D printing a pattern for lost wax castings, understanding shrinkage and draft on patterns........all of this takes talent, experience, and education. Fact is, if it were easy, everyone would be doing it. With time and luck I think the future in this field will work out to be a great benefit to the hobby.........and I expect it will be another ten years where we get better access to it at cost curves that make sense.

jdome........I agree that the Cadillac 12’s and 16’s run fine with factory carburetors. 30-31’s Cadillac-Johnson’s are junk, and a pain to get right......but you CAN get them right......it’s just money and time. The vacuum tanks work fine......I probably have 25k miles on 1930-1931 Caddy’s with the tanks.........and never had had any reliability issues........very long hills can cause fuel supply problems, and to overcome that it’s simply just a case of backing off the throttle every 45 seconds for about ten seconds and everything works great.(Only the 8’s have hill issues.) Cadillac’s are much better than average performers when properly set up......I would describe them as big and fast. Anyone who says a early 30’s Caddy is a truck or a tank has never driven a good one. Even the lowly 8 is a decent car.......... in a garage of great cars..........we drive our V-16 very often. Only Duesenbergs get more road time in our collection.

Gentelmen, a 1934 Buick that has sleeves protecting the plugs........do they slide out? If so, these are very tight. Can't get a plug socket on them. I'm certain I will get the correct answer here.......best, Ed

Ruben is a good friend, and lives less than two miles from me, so we see each other often.

Fantastic..... it shows effort on the part of the company, which I didn’t expect. That Walt has this item is very impressive....... Walt......my car may break down if front of your house for a week or two........I need some legitimate reason to knock on your door and sleep on the floor in your library! Best, Ed.

Its was obvious at Hershey “what they were looking for”.......... a blind man with a big checkbook. 😏

CAR SNOB! 🤯 Welcome to the club, I’ll show you the secret handshake at Hershey in October. 👍

fellas I’m not complaining that it’s so obscure. I’m a little punchy from a rough day. I’m complaining that there isn’t anything really to look at as far as survivors. I love a glorified four, specially since I own two of the coolest ones on the planet.

Joe just send me your checkbook. I’ll have one up to your shop before you know it. 😎

Ok......35 cars produced......maybe......isn’t a car company. Rolls would only list them as competitors because of the price. If memory serves me, Rolls first Springfield car was late 1921........ and things didn’t spool up till mid 1923. In my mind , a Porter was just another assembled car that almost isn’t worth a foot note. It would be fun to see a few under hood photos........

It’s my humble opinion, that the industry was fairly well established with research and development by 1910. Look at the progress every five years that internal combustion engines made over twenty five years. One also must remember.....bad roads meant you didn’t need to go fast. So you also didn’t need better fuel. Tire technology wasn’t great.........it took all the stars to align to get to the mid 30’s when cars started to really function and perform at a level that made them “just better than a horse”. By 1936 She’ll Oil started to experiment with what we call high test from our youth, and the manufacturing of all that gas for aircraft during the war allowed the manufactures to go to over head engines right after the war. Also, fuel was so cheap.....efficiency wasn’t even in anyone’s thoughts. Everything in time.......it’s own time. Compare the first Tesla roadster to their top of the line car today.........you see similar progress. What will a Tesla look like ten years from now.......I don’t think anyone is working more than 24 months down the road.........

Hamilton Standard four gas machines were common in Western Massachuetts around 1978, we had one in our local shop in 1979. I owned about five of them through 2005. The five gas was was needed to deal with smog. In reality, the best performance improvements we got from all the fancy test equipment was figuring out that 2/3 of the cars we were working on had incorrect carburetors bolted on them from the old days when “all those things are the same”...........well, they are not.......not even close. Half the cars didn’t have a timing advance unit that was working at fifty percent. The lesson? Look at EVERYTHING......and make sure it’s PERFECT.........if you can get a car to 100 percent of its factory condition it usually will run fantastic......kind of obvious isn’t it? There are so few unmolested cars it would really surprise you. 80 percent of the Pierce Arrows we come across have Stude carbs on them........and a 385 cid doesn’t want a 320 cid set up carb on it. The other secret is take your time.....and make everything the best it can possibly be..........do great work.....not just good enough. We always strived to have a car leave that was “perfect.” While nothing is perfect, if you peruse perfection it is possible to achieve excellence.........and that is truly a reasonable result.

exhaust gas analyzers were offered for sale in 1936 to the aftermarket repair shops........ I doubt very many bought them. There’s absolutely nothing wrong tuning by the seat of your pants, if you have a lot of experience. Problem is that many people don’t. Having a stationary dyno in my business for emissions testing was a fantastic advantage. On rainy days I would place a few pre war cars on it and play around with ignition and fuel. Playing with timing curves, fuel pressure, float height, jet size, you name it......we experimented with it. Also a close personal friend worked at Shell fuels and Morton Thiokol was a great help doing the chemistry and explaining carbon chains. Understanding blending stocks and heat content was also a interesting school to attend. We focused on L head engines because that is what 80 percent of what we were playing with at the time. Taking power readings with E10 vs regular pump gas was also interesting. The earlier you go, the less things tend to improve no matter how much you play with things......it’s relatively easy to get 15-20 percent better performance with most 1929-1935 cars if you spend time dialing them in. The extra 20-30 horsepower makes a huge difference in the driving envelope of the car. The most important lesson I learned was any L head under 325 cid was just wasting my time.........they just don’t make the power I want to go down the road. The 385 cid straight eights made by Packard, Pierce, Chrysler, Reo, and a few others can and will perform well.......even the 340-370 cid motors will do ok........get below 320, and things fall off fast.....

Looks like someone made a new pump shaft a bit too long.....the hardy drive disk is offset way too much.......they shouldn’t be trying to take up that much offset. You can use rubber or leather......I made these myself in under an hour........the rubber ones on eBay are made by my old shop.......