edinmass

John, If you buy a 100 point Pebble first in class winner and drive it off the field……it still needs 50k worth of work to be a reliable driver and totally sorted.

I would consider removing the clutch brake facing material. They(clutch brake) are useless anyway. There are clutch books out there that list the material thickness. I now longer have my book, I sold it last year. I now send all my disks to Fort Wayne Clutch. They are great guys, and offer different material choices. A few years back I did a Stutz clutch. It had been done no less than three times in the previous fifty miles. One call with Fort Wayne and we got the correct material for the disk. Worked perfectly. Interestingly the previous people requested a modern incorrect friction material……it went from the worst chatter I had ever seen to smooth as silk.

We should have a tractor thread………..

One of the best things about moving from Massachuetts to Florida is here the cops have no issues with protecting your property. Anywhere in Florida when trespassing you can expect to have a firearm pointed at you……quickly. They call it “The gunshine state”. The first day I moved into my house here we had three local teens come in through an unlocked door. They were surprised I had my Florida CCW and I was packing already. They ran, and the cops knew them just from my description. All were in custody in less than two hours. They all got a free vacation compliments of the state. Down here they practice zero tolerance for everything except traffic violations. Shoplifting here gets you in jail immediately, and you arraignment often takes a few days. So while there is drug and gang violence here it stays among their own crowd, property crime is relativity low. Criminals here fear both prosecution and an armed populace John, sorry for the loss of your property. None of us should have to fear property crime…….. And one fair warning when your a tourist here in Florida…….there is a saying among the locals. It applies to drinking and driving. ”Come one vacation, leave on probation”. They are particularly aggressive with tourists and drinking and driving. It’s a revenue stream for them. There are more fines and fees than you can imagine. And a quick streamlined process to get you to plead guilty, and pay. Don’t take the chance…….Uber

Water pump shafts, and water pumps in general are a constant headache. Oftentimes they have been altered or re-engineered and done poorly. I had a customers big boy toy in the shop when the pump exploded and ate the hood, radiator, and associated parts. Long story short, it was an altered pump and obviously done incorrectly. We are talking a 25k failure here. Interestingly I had another similar car at the same time and looked over the pump and it was done in the same way by the same builder. It was an easy up sell when I showed the photos of the other cars failure to the owner of the still intact car. In the last ten years I have had about a dozen pumps done by “professional “ shops for me because I am so busy with other things. About half of them end up leaking sooner or later. Now I only use two sources to do water pump work. They are very good, don’t have comebacks, and are fairly quick. Just don’t ask the price…… Modern seal conversations are popular and fine if done correctly. I did my 1936 Pierce V-12 35 years ago and haven’t touched it since. It’s has tens of thousands of miles on it. End play and drive coupler set ups can be problematic. Also incorrect or modified fans that are out of balance can crack with a disaster for under hood. So a “simple” water pump is more often than not complicated. Especially on pre 1936 cars. In general we convert to modern sealed bearings and modern seals if you can machine what you have to work with. It can get complicated fast. Sometimes just rebuilding it in stock configuration is your best option. Bloo………how about some photos of the pump.

Very small. Easily placed where it won’t do harm. It’s easier to just buy some correct material. There are different schools of thought on how hard a pump shaft should be. I don’t have an opinion.

Firearm manufacturer will have them. Also, any fabrication shop for boats, and many machine tool shops. They are common and not expensive. We had one in my old shop purchased at a swap meet. We used it to test valves.

Engines today are perfectly fine after 50 miles. Unless built too tight…….modern oils, modern pistons and ring packages, everything settles in very fast. Good temperature control…….do not run it too cold…….most cars don’t have working thermostats even after a total rebuild. Operating temperature on your straight eight is 140-170 degrees. I run thinner oil on break in. And run straight 40 after two oil changes……usually at 50 and 150 miles. Also, long before the car is going down the road we usually run 15 gallons of gas through them on the stand or stationary in the chassis.

These are for Orin.......

Walt....great piece. Any comment is always welcome. All friends here. 👍

I know the book, but don't remember reading that. There is a recent book published on Clifton. Interesting guy. Styling certinly suffered from 1921 to 1928........on most of the models.

Evaporust is not an acid. The synthetic compound binds with oxygen……so it converts rust into iron oxide, it can not physically attack anything. Thus it’s safe for paint, brass, aluminum, ect. Whatever is on the carb after heating it I have no clue. Porous and bubbles on the surface of post 1932 Strombergs are usually only found on castings that have been weathered. Any appearance of swelling or pitting usually means the carb is going to continue to deteriorate. Heat cycles and unseated garages will accelerate the failure over time. We have glass beaded them in the past and then treated them with zinc chromate but it’s a very dangerous process and it’s very difficult to get access to it.

Daniel- it seems the bad surprises outnumber the good 50 to 1!

After fifty years of servicing car we have a mantra in our shop. “Stock is trick”!

Nope…….evapo will not touch or damage anything. It removes oxygen with a synthetic molecule. It’s harmless. You have unstable metal. By 1932 Stromberg had all their pot metal issues fixed. Most likely you carb is suffering from exposure. Having serviced countless Stromberg units I have never seen any issues post 1932.

Yes, owned by a good friend. 1930 Five passenger touring. We just did the clutch and steering box for him. Here it is.

Rusty…….I have never heard any comment about fender lights in the negative from any “inside” source. As far as going out of alignment……….Pierce fender lights stay where they are aimed………..the other manufacturers lights never stay put…….so I consider them ten times more stable than all others.

In the world of Pierce Arrow we call them “bracket lights”. Most Pierce guys will pass on a car without fender lamps. I know lots of people consider them ugly/offensive. Having grown up with a Pierce Arrow in the garage since I can remember………they are just a normal thing on them. Certain years and body styles certainly suffer from a cosmetic standpoint…….but to true Pierce collectors they are just “there” and you don’t even see them. As far as New York style lights……..it’s a myth. No state ever forbid or denied a car with fender lights. The term first appears in the 60’s. Most importantly……..”A man who owned a Pierce Arrow envies no one.” Tell me these headlights are unattractive………it’s a stunning car that kicked ass on the show field. We called it the trophy machine. It left countless cars in the dust in competition.

At least it’s the RIGHT half!

Yes....we were there........always drive my stuff. 😀

Bentley's are now getting unscrambled also........there were four in George"s shop up in Massachusetts a few years ago.......it was quite the "pig pile". After it was over they all needed total restorations. Hell, some guys are taking off the modern blowers that were added in the 80's. Today it's all about purity. If you have the money.

1933 Pierce Arrow Series 1247 LeBaron Enclosed Drive Limousine. Yes, it's still where I passed it along. Fantastic automobile. Look at the size of the front door........a good friend who was 6'6' easily fit behind the wheel.

Hell........considering what most people call you Al or AJ should be fine.

https://oldcroak.com/bosch-du1-du2-du4-du6-early-pre-ww1/ This may help...it was listed above. They are very simple.

28K is over retail for that car running and going down the road. I like it.........I think todays number not running from the photos is...............a lot less than 12k. Only because of total lack of parts availibility and driving envelpoe being so slow. Could be a great car for the right person.