JB-ed

Correctly, "countrytraveler," It's the 100th anniversary of Dodge, or Dodge Brothers, 1914-2014. Chrysler was only a dream in 1914.

Use lacquer thinner. Wipe on, wipe off the yellow.

I have NEVER found any electric fuel pump with any regulation that did not overwhelm the carburetor float and run the engine rich under all conditions. Remember it's merely gravity feed from the vacuum tank to the carburetor float bowl. I removed all electric fuel pumps on all my cars and run with the vacuum tank as they were originally intended. THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WRONG WITH A WELL RESTORED VACUUM TANK. These tanks were used for years on all cars, high end Packards, Cadillacs, Locomobiles and so forth without any problems. Why do people insist on re-engineering perfectly running and designed engine fuel systems? Restore your vacuum tank and let your poor car run as it was originally designed (and save the trouble and expense of learning this the hard way.)

Keep in mind for that era they were not "straps" but braided cords with tassel at the end.

As we discussed by phone, these are all rebuildable. Even if the casting is cracked, you can get it brazed. Myers sells the new impeller, which I recommend in any case as re-installing that old cast iron one, after you pounded out the pin and so forth, is likely to wind up a failure down the road anyway. Myers also sells the new shaft, but so does Dave Johnson (see Reproduction Update in the magazine). You can buy the bronze bushings and timken bearings at any bearing or industrial distributor. Any graphite rope plumbing sealer will do for the seal. When pressing out the old bushings, note that one has a flange and only comes out one way. Also make sure you support the casting well and soundly when pressing or it will crack. This (and the master cylinder nose) are the only "somewhat fragile" castings on the Victory Six. The only real "tooling" you may need is a reamer for the bushings to fit the shaft snugly in place.

Yeah. That guy uploaded the Victory Six CD-ROM that is being sold by Tom and Cindy Myers for a tremendously reasonable price. Buy that CD and save the uploading effort. It contains a modern "shop manual" which is compiled from various sources and is the only one of its kind to exist. Also production figures and so forth. John

While it is true the the first Victorys were started down the assembly line on November 1927, production of this new body type was slow starting up. Very few were produced. Some went for road and track testing, some went with executives on "dog and pony" shows to various dealers in various locations. They were, I believe, painted gray and black, believed to be best for B&W photography for advertising and press releases. But the first ones were sold after New Years Day of 1928 after a huge introduction to the public. Also, while the final Victory serial number is given for the last day of December 1928, production figures show none were made after some time in October or November. I figure that producton stopped to re-tool for the DA.

Our family has a few Victory Sixes Sport roadster Sport sedan Deluxe late sedan Early sedan Coupe Sport touring 4-Passenger coupe - early 4-Passenger coupe - late 131 sedan - early 131 sedan - late All except three are "on the road"

The Club Store also sells a reprint of all those articles supplemented with various later member contributions

and if the fenders are painted any color other than black, so also is the frame, axles--the whole chassis

Tom and Cindy Myers sell a CD containing most everything known about the Victory Six

Try Glenn Smith, VintageAndClassicReproductios.com. He sells various ponts plates that allow you to use VW points. I would suggest you buy the whole distributor reproduction to avoid wear in your original unit. You can use a modern 6volt condenser.

The point made in the above post has been reviewed to death in the recent issues of the Dodge Brothers Club News with references to other publications saying the same thing.

DodgeKCL states, "The windings of the transformer, which is what the ignition coil really is, are wound in manufacture in a certain direction. They cannot be changed obviously. But it's an electrical engineering fact that the transformer will output a higher potential when hooked up the way the design engineers wound it for. " However (and I can be wrong here) forty years ago you could purchase specific coils for "+" and "-" ground systems. These had their high-voltage and low-voltage inner windings grounded together on either the "+" or "-" terminals, according to the battery-terminal grounding to be used. Now, all coils are wired only for "-" ground systems. That is, the design engineers design the modern coil only for "-" grounded systems. Hence, any modern coil used in a car, battery grounding notwithstanding, must be wired for the "-" terminal of the coil to ground, that is, to the distributor. A pencil-spark test will confirm this, with the better spark obtained if the "-" terminal is connected to the distributor, even in a "+" grounded electrical system.

You can contnue to use the old switch and coil with a new coil. Just splice the new coil into the wire from the old coil to the distributor. Be sure the "-" terminal of the new coil goes to the distributor.

You can try jacking up the car on the opposite side, putting the whole weight of the car on the stuck wheel. Put the axle nut back on, backwards so as not to damage it and also to protect the axle threads. Then hit the nut with a sledge hammer several tiomes and see if that works. Otherwise, the puller is an excellent option. You can use it so long as you own and work on that car. You still may need to smack the puller with the sledge hammer, and also may need to jack up the car as above. This sledge hammer trick works because there is always some end play in the axle.

Incidentally, 60CH, my factory literature says that this vacuum booster is to be connected to the MANIFOLD end of the vacuum line, not at the tank. (I need to go out and change mine.) rbardin seems to have something else, or in addition, to this vacuum booster in the kit he bought on ebay. In addition, his box says EXCEPT for Model T and A. Do any of you have literature on your boosters to confirm/deny that it ought to be at the manifold end of the vacuum line?

Which model of 1928/ Standard, Victory, Senior, or Fast four?

To be announced in the Feb/Mar 2012 issue of the club magazine, the Club Store will be selling a reprint of the entire vacuum tank series (with subsequent comments from readers). Also other reprints including "Tools," "Trucks," "DB Army vehicles," and about four or five more that I can not recall at this moment will be available as bound, full page booklets.

I located a new printer. I was "fighting" with the previous printer, many meetings, many lunches (free at least for me!) and always a promise to do better. But always the same poor photo reproduction. Finally, one free lunch too many, and I contacted a new printer, only five miles from my house instead of 35. I am happy that you are happy. It was a true disappoinment for me to have to send out those issues with lousy photos, which kept getting lousier with every issue. Thank you, all you squeaky wheels, for keeping me on the ball.

It still sounds like caster shimmy. Either too much to too little caster, usually too little. Caster decreases as the springs sag with age. You install angled wedges between the springs and their contact with the front axle. You can make them (hardened steel; soft steel will just flatten out in time) or, if lucky buy them NOS at a swap meet. If the shimmy starts after you hit a good pothole at 35-45 mph, and if you can steer out of it (if you have the nerve) it is most certainly caster shimmy.

You also will find, on rare occassion, North East starters and generators with cast (iron? steel?) end plates. Years ago we thought we noticed a trend of finding these, as well as distributors, on DB/GB trucks moreso than on cars. No one I know has found any distinction between the pot metal and the cast (iron) versions in any NE or DB or GB parts books!!! In the mid 30s Delco recommended one of their own distributors as replacement for the NE but still offered the NE originals, still with no mention of change in body materials. I also have heard of complete Stromberg carburetors (U-2, UX-2) made of cast (iron) but again, with absolutely no differences in the parts book references. So far, it's been a mystery but consider yourselves lucky when you find these parts as they are indestructable.

Some of the later paint schemes included a third color, which was painted around the window reveals (the window openings, which appear to be bare metal on your car's photos) and also on the panels below the windows (shown in cream on your car's photos). The location of the pin stripe in the panels on your car appears to be correct. Buyers in 1928 had the option of getting their cars in primer ($50 less) and painting them their own choice of colors. Some people today use this excuse to paint their cars any color they choose. Which is perfectly OK although I suspect we have many more of these cars on the road today "purchased in primer" than originally came out of the factory. The factory painted all cars on one assembly line the same color for a few weeks' production before changing to another color combination. The serial numbers on the CD show when the factory reported a new color for a particular assembly line. Any overlap shows that there was more than one assembly line running at a time. Hence at least two color combinations could have been produced on one day...or even several weeks.

Hershey is supposed to be an antique car and parts swap meet. Period. Not a parking lot. Not a place to display tarps over unseen parts in an abandoned vendor's space. Not a place to sell yard-sale items. The only ones the "crackdown" will discourage are those not actively selling antique car parts. Chickasha swapmeet has exactly these rules and is thriving. It's a pre-war (WW-2) only swap meet. I saw the directors make a guy remove his 1950s cars from his space and out into the parking lot a few years ago.

I understand jdome's dilemma. I have for years thought of getting a vendor's space to sell off some of my spare parts--but then I would have no time to wander the fields to buy more! If a vendor wants to leave his space to shop, he ought to be required to leave a prominent cell-phone number for potential buyers to contact him while he is away. I think I noticed far fewer "non-auto-related" sellers this year. I recall back in the 1970s when Hershey officials made Nat Adelstein remove some antique phonographs from his space, even though he mostly offered old car parts. I think it's time for that again. It's an antique car swap meet--not a yard sale! There is no excuse for vendors packing up at 1:30 or even 3:30 in the afternoons. There is no excuse for allowing people to buy vendor's spaces just to use for parking. I bet Hershey would be reduced to 1/3 its size if the rules would be enforced (if there are rules). Asking prices were up this year, in my opinion. Especially in the car corral. One guy was offering an all original, in need of complete restoration, 1922 Dodge for $11,500. He finally sold it something for under $2900, still high. Sold cars were leaving the area, so maybe the prices are coming back up. (Unfortunately in my opinion.) I hope Hershey directors find ways to correct these issues, otherwise I see Hershey yielding more and more to internet auction sites. All-in-all, it's a lot cheaper to buy a part on eBay at 50% higher price than to invest in a trip to Hershey, considering fuel, tolls, mileage, time off work, hotel, and premium-priced hotdogs from Hershey food vendors. This year all I bought were two North East rotors, cost $10 each + tolls, hotel, gas, etc. = $400 each!