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1936 D2

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About 1936 D2

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  • Birthday 09/25/1955

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  1. Question: Why are there so many BBR-1's on the remaining '36 Dodges and not original EXV_2's? (I have always wondered.)
  2. Hey "1936 Viper" Lee, Ever get the brakes sorted out? Been driving it at all?
  3. Here are some photos of the Headlamp Stands and the shell mounting side SS Trim pieces. (I looked for photos of the grille trim clips but no luck.)
  4. It's going to look something like the '36 one probably. Not sure about '34.
  5. Ooooo. Also consider that in the parts manuals I have seen that there was a "Chrome Spoke" wheel available for some models. I think I remember I may have seen that on an original export Limo that was painted the "Dodge Blue" color. That would also make you think that the "Silver" color listed for wheels would be arranged to match this "Chrome Spoke" wheel and have the "Silver" on the spokes. What do you think of that idea?
  6. Now that I am back at this "paint thing", I see what you say. I DO think the wheels that are indicated as having "Silver" had the Silver painted on the whole wheel first. Looking at the Gray one's photo, the Silver looks to be more rusted than the Gray. That would make you think the Gray area may have two layers of paint. Also, because I could find no info on this wheel color stuff back in the early '90's, I gave some thought to the color positioning before I painted my wheels and decided that having the Silver color for the starburst would look odd because it is right next to a v
  7. OK... Here we go. A LOT of research here. DuPont was apparently the original paint manufacturer for '36 Dodge. Your "Avon Green Metallic" is Dodge paint code # 302, DuPont code # 202-31348. The accent colors for the wheels are called "Whirlpool Green" and "Silver". I have NEVER seen paint codes for any of the accent/stripe colors. I WAS told at one time that "every paint shop knows how to mix the stripe colors because the names are standard". The way they are listed on the following chart has nothing to do with the color positioning. (First column is Manufacturer paint
  8. These are the style on my car. (Originals on back door so look pretty nice!) Sorry, not to make you drool too much but these were seen for sale on eBay over three years ago. Sold for $125.00 / pair!
  9. That engine block actually cracked the building!
  10. Had the exact same problem with my '36 first time I started her up after a 20 year storage too. Got it running, drove it about 2 blocks and it stalled. I waited for maybe 10-15 minutes and it would start back up again then stall in short time, each time this cycle happened it seemed it had a bit shorter run time. Long story short, I found the short length of original rubber flex hose between the fuel line and the fuel pump was collapsing inside. The rubber in there was all swollen and mushy. Replaced the line with a modern fuel capable rubber line and all was well. Original rubb
  11. Sorry. No extra dovetails. Most are broken over time. I know there was a move to try and reproduce those out east a few years back but don't know the status of that project. Did you count the 6 carriage style bolts through the sides of the frame side members? (Front and back of the bottom of the "B" pillar and also at the back of the rear door kick panel). Also, from my memory, there are two bolts under the cowl, two near the trunk opening, two just in front of the rear seat, and I think two at the bottom of the "A" pillar. These are all on the tops of the frame side members.
  12. Here are some more shots of the discussed parts.
  13. Just a quick note from memory to get you started... Some are thick felt, some are asphalt impregnated woven fabric. As memory serves, the "squashed" thickness is pretty much where you want to start on the asphalt versions. The aged areas of these asphalt ones seems to gets thicker as they are exposed to weathering. On the thick felt, I would picture them about a third thicker than the "squashed' areas. More like the current thickness of the "unsquashed' areas. Most of the install of these depends on body alignment. That's why I do not remove the doors from the body until it is placed back onto
  14. You have already done a much better job of storing your "spare gears" than I have! Might I suggest finding a lubricant that is designed to coat and protect metals from rust over long periods of time and use that as a storage oil for your gears? It will probably have a waxy sort of feel once applied.
  15. There may be a fuse on or near the back of the ammeter. Check for that. See if it popped. Also, sounds like you may have a short to ground or some kind of grounding issue causing resistive stress on the electrical system. Spend some time cleaning all connections that go to ground as you look around for the problem. Also keep an eye on insulation on wires as you go over the whole system. Check your lighting switch for good operation. (This is assuming you are working with an original electrical system. If it is all newly replaced and recent full body work was done, you may be looking for bad gr
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