1936 D2

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About 1936 D2

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  • Birthday 09/25/1955

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    artnels2@yahoo.com

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    NE WI

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  • Biography
    Owner of two '36 Dodge D2 4dr Touring Sedans since 1983 - One runs, one not so much.

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  1. Question: Why are there so many BBR-1's on the remaining '36 Dodges and not original EXV_2's? (I have always wondered.)
  2. Hey "1936 Viper" Lee, Ever get the brakes sorted out? Been driving it at all?
  3. Here are some photos of the Headlamp Stands and the shell mounting side SS Trim pieces. (I looked for photos of the grille trim clips but no luck.)
  4. It's going to look something like the '36 one probably. Not sure about '34.
  5. Ooooo. Also consider that in the parts manuals I have seen that there was a "Chrome Spoke" wheel available for some models. I think I remember I may have seen that on an original export Limo that was painted the "Dodge Blue" color. That would also make you think that the "Silver" color listed for wheels would be arranged to match this "Chrome Spoke" wheel and have the "Silver" on the spokes. What do you think of that idea?
  6. Now that I am back at this "paint thing", I see what you say. I DO think the wheels that are indicated as having "Silver" had the Silver painted on the whole wheel first. Looking at the Gray one's photo, the Silver looks to be more rusted than the Gray. That would make you think the Gray area may have two layers of paint. Also, because I could find no info on this wheel color stuff back in the early '90's, I gave some thought to the color positioning before I painted my wheels and decided that having the Silver color for the starburst would look odd because it is right next to a very shiny bright silver of the hubcaps. That would give the hubcap a dull looking edge. So I flipped it and put the body color as the starburst to separate the shiny metal hubcap from the darker less shiny "Silver" paint. The only thing I missed was that (according to the Gray wheel photo) the outer rim of the wheel is supposed to ALSO be body color. I do not have the shiny stainless trim rings for my wheels so the same "dull against shiny" problem would have been there too. I did not consider this issue as I picked how I would do my wheels. (Sadly, now I know). So, with all this info, I think the Gray wheel in my photos would show the correct placement for the listed colors on your Avon Green car. I have a photo of a car that I was told was "Avon Green Metallic" but it is VERY faded with age I think and seems a bit of an odd, very light color for cars in '36. Most of the early car colors were quite subdued and with earthy tones. The "Spring Showing" and "Summer Special" colors may be a different idea! As far as I can find, those colors were only produced by "Ditzler" company and were offered on cars out west. I have heard of them called "West Coast Colors" also. Here's a copy of the photo I have of the supposed original "Avon Green" car. If this is not right (and may possibly be one of the "Spring Showing" or "Summer Special" colors) please let me know. Here is a page from "Ditzler" including the "Spring Showing" and "Summer Special" color info I have located. I have NEVER seen chips for these colors. These colors do not have Dodge Manufacturer Paint Code numbers listed. This made me think that MAYBE Dodge showed a paint color for your car on the manufacturing paperwork, but was then painted later, maybe at the dealer, with a green from the "Spring Showing" or "Summer Special" colors. (There are three Green's listed but the "Hunter" / "Archer" green is known to be a darker almost forest green color). You would know that so... maybe one of the other green ones? And consider that the two "Seamist Grays" may have a greenish cast to them also considering their names.
  7. OK... Here we go. A LOT of research here. DuPont was apparently the original paint manufacturer for '36 Dodge. Your "Avon Green Metallic" is Dodge paint code # 302, DuPont code # 202-31348. The accent colors for the wheels are called "Whirlpool Green" and "Silver". I have NEVER seen paint codes for any of the accent/stripe colors. I WAS told at one time that "every paint shop knows how to mix the stripe colors because the names are standard". The way they are listed on the following chart has nothing to do with the color positioning. (First column is Manufacturer paint code Number, second is DuPont paint color code Number and Manufacturer's Name for the BODY color, 3rd is for the DuPont paint color code Number and Manufacturer's Name for the FENDER color [hence NOT Black ever], 4th is for the Manufacturer's Accent / Stripe paint color Name, and the last column is for the Wheel Color combinations). Where the colors go on the wheels took a while to research. Different color combinations have different paint combinations. For instance: the most standard vehicle color at the time was Black, so the wheels were painted Black with a Packard Ivory starburst and outer rim stripes, along with a Black stripe near the outer edge of the starburst. (Made it look like there was a Packard Ivory pin stripe around the starburst, but not really.) Your wheels, because of the Silver listed, would probably look like the second wheel shown here with most of the wheel the Avon Green Metallic, the spokes Silver and the Whirlpool Green as an outer rim accent Stripe and Stripe near the outer edge of the starburst. (The second wheel is a Gray but I would suspect the paint scheme is the same). If you look very carefully at the edges of the starburst you can see the sprayed paint flares out a bit near the points. I am suspecting they used a shield of some type that did not lay perfectly flat causing some of the spray to "leak" near the points. This shield would either cover the hub or the spokes depending on the base color of the wheels. I think in your application the shield would be on the hub while the silver was sprayed. Once this combination was dry, the painter came in and put on the "Whirlpool Green" pin stripes by hand. (See the bottom of the Black wheel's spokes for evidence of the hand done stripes. Quite an artist!). My painter for my car did all this spray painting by putting on masking tape by hand on all six wheels. What a pile of work! A stamped (or now laser cut) sheet metal template would have been much easier I would think! I did the striping myself. And THAT was a pain! But came out OK. All this info is from close to 25 years of research. This stuff sometimes does not come quickly!
  8. These are the style on my car. (Originals on back door so look pretty nice!) Sorry, not to make you drool too much but these were seen for sale on eBay over three years ago. Sold for $125.00 / pair!
  9. That engine block actually cracked the building!
  10. Had the exact same problem with my '36 first time I started her up after a 20 year storage too. Got it running, drove it about 2 blocks and it stalled. I waited for maybe 10-15 minutes and it would start back up again then stall in short time, each time this cycle happened it seemed it had a bit shorter run time. Long story short, I found the short length of original rubber flex hose between the fuel line and the fuel pump was collapsing inside. The rubber in there was all swollen and mushy. Replaced the line with a modern fuel capable rubber line and all was well. Original rubber fuel line cut open showing swelling restriction. Correct looking hose for '36 Dodge
  11. Sorry. No extra dovetails. Most are broken over time. I know there was a move to try and reproduce those out east a few years back but don't know the status of that project. Did you count the 6 carriage style bolts through the sides of the frame side members? (Front and back of the bottom of the "B" pillar and also at the back of the rear door kick panel). Also, from my memory, there are two bolts under the cowl, two near the trunk opening, two just in front of the rear seat, and I think two at the bottom of the "A" pillar. These are all on the tops of the frame side members. (There MAY be two in the bottoms of the "B" pillars also but I'm not sure on those). And who knows. I may be forgetting about a couple others too! My impression was there seemed to be A LOT! BTW: I was ALSO thinking about using conveyor belting for the hard ones! Great minds think alike!
  12. Here are some more shots of the discussed parts.
  13. Just a quick note from memory to get you started... Some are thick felt, some are asphalt impregnated woven fabric. As memory serves, the "squashed" thickness is pretty much where you want to start on the asphalt versions. The aged areas of these asphalt ones seems to gets thicker as they are exposed to weathering. On the thick felt, I would picture them about a third thicker than the "squashed' areas. More like the current thickness of the "unsquashed' areas. Most of the install of these depends on body alignment. That's why I do not remove the doors from the body until it is placed back onto the frame. Then I can use the door alignment to help with body mounting adjustments. Open for comments here!
  14. You have already done a much better job of storing your "spare gears" than I have! Might I suggest finding a lubricant that is designed to coat and protect metals from rust over long periods of time and use that as a storage oil for your gears? It will probably have a waxy sort of feel once applied.
  15. There may be a fuse on or near the back of the ammeter. Check for that. See if it popped. Also, sounds like you may have a short to ground or some kind of grounding issue causing resistive stress on the electrical system. Spend some time cleaning all connections that go to ground as you look around for the problem. Also keep an eye on insulation on wires as you go over the whole system. Check your lighting switch for good operation. (This is assuming you are working with an original electrical system. If it is all newly replaced and recent full body work was done, you may be looking for bad grounds because of newly painted connection points not allowing for a good ground.)