JB-ed

Yes. Antique Auto Top Hardware has these twist assist cords. $325/pair, quite reasonable in my opinion. www.antiqueautotophardware.com

THANK YOU vintchry. I knew I saw that illustration and catalog before, and that was it. A bit pricey, but I have been playing with all sorts of rope and twisting and pom-poms and fringes and still have nothing to be proud of. SPINNEYHILL probably has described the technique -- spring wire and core wire and braiding and crimping -- but holy cow, that sounds above my pay grade. Thank you so much, both of you. I sent an email and am ever hopeful that they will respond and I will actually have a pair of these for spring.

Does anyone reproduce these twisted cords ending with a fuzzy ball? They mount on the rear door pillar of 1920s sedans. These specifically for 1928 Victory Six sedans.

Does anyone reproduce these twisted cords ending with a fuzzy ball? They mount on the rear door pillar of 1920s sedans.

"Although the jalopy is nearly a century old ...." This from a company that makes its money insuring antique cars? "We will gladly take your money to insure your jalopies."

Yes it is a Victory Six touring in standard trim with wire wheel option. There were touring cars sold in the U.S., and yours appears to be a Budd bodied export. The color may be Dauphine Red and Manitoba brown. These colors were offered on roadsters, and since it is most likely that roadsters and touring cars came down the same assembly line, it is possible that a touring car snuck by with roadster colors. However, this color scheme on your car was not announced by the factory. Of course this does not matter; you just need to enjoy this car. It is beautiful! The brass work on your car is a fantasy, since all the brightwork was chrome, but it looks like fun as it is. The touring car was offered in standard trim (like yours) and in sport trim. The difference was that the sport models had spare wheels in the fenders (sidemounts), cowl lights, and a trunk rack on the back. However, your car, in standard trim, is more rare than the sport model. Both types of touring cars are quire rare however. There was one other car like yours found in India but it was exported to Dubai where it is driven practically every day. Before it was restored, it was nearly worn out, probably having accumulated hundreds of thousands of miles. The owner shipped it to the U.S. for restoration. Tom Myers, (Google Myers Early Dodge) sells a CD containing an enormous amount of information about your car. It costs only $10 US. I highly suggest you buy it.

Come to think of it, the club donated to the AACA library an enormous set of Parts Books, supposedly from 1914-1930 or so, which includes a three or four volume set of truck books. Many answers could be contained therein. These books contain part numbers and line drawings of engines, front and rear ends, transmissions, etc.

I had once a 1929 firetruck, partly GB and partly DB. No doubt built during Chrysler's decision to abandon the Graham reference due to the Graham brothers now building a competitive car. However, the Senior engine, now built by Dodge in-house, had a GB before the serial number. It was different from the car engine in that it had a dual updraft manifold to suit the dual updraft Zenith carburetor and a serious high-output North East generator. It also had no heat valve built into the manifold. The bore should be 3.395 for GB, 3.375 for Seniors, according to Confidential memos, but my truck engine had the 3.375 bore. So...??? Engine GB-16622 (note this is still a Graham Bros prefix) Chassis Number D-204042 (Built in Detroit) It is possible, but I have no confirmation of this, that when these engines were built by Continental, the numbering was sequential and no differences between truck and car prefixes.. For this we need input from owners of early trucks with Senior engines. 1. Regarding the numbering of truck serial numbers in the '27-'28 period, remember that there was mass confusion at Dodge Brothers. Wilmer was a horrible executive (as witness his nearly destroying Goodyear prior to coming to Dodge) and seemed to change his mind on almost every decision he made, probably also regarding how to designate various truck models. 2. Production of Senior cars can be measured by car serial numbers which came sequentially with little or no gaps. Trucks were built in different locations and would not interfere with car production. Car production numbers are verified in paint charts (showing changes in colors produced) and Confidential Memos to dealers. Numerous car-industry publications also report these production numbers. I do not know the differences in engine number vs car serial number for Seniors, but for the Victory the engines ran about 12,000 higher number than the chassis serial number. The difference increased as the model year progresses--something I attributed to engines being diverted for trucks, but I have no confirmation about that. I always presumed that engine numbering started with M-10001 for car number M-1 (more or less). 3. A major error in the publication pages duplicated above, the Victory wheelbase is 112, not 120.

The Club Store sells reprints of the series of articles on Senior Six and also of the series on truck numbering and specifications. As I recall, much of the necessity of purchasing the engines from Continental lied in foundry capacity at Dodge, producing the four-cylinder engine and also developing the Victory engine. Once the four was canceled they brought manufacturing of the Senior engine in-house. This, I believe, comes from the "Confidential Memos to Dealers." Also Dodge hired John Wilkenson, formerly of Franklin Motors, but then freelancing, to design the Victory engine and possibly the Senior as well. This comes from "Automotive Topics" and also from Menno Duerksen of "Cars & Parts."

John S-- in the world of cable TV, many of the channels are open to supplied content, for which they then sell advertising. Look at the types of advertisers on some of these hot-rod building (and yes, contrived ) shows and you may begin to suspect that the advertisers may also be the content suppliers. Greg in Canada--you are absolutely correct. These hot-rod building shows are contrived and absolutely economically unrealistic. The problem is, they generate business for suppliers of hot-rod kits and for membership in the associations. And that's the intent of the shows. I suggest that we need equivalents in restoration. Obviously more realistic and more credible, but we need something.

I recently learned that national hot-rod organizations and hot-rod parts suppliers are helping fund the spate of hot-rod related shows on cable TV. The idea, of course, is to build up the failing hot-rod market. And it seems to be working with renewed interest by younger people. Perhaps some of our antique-car preservation organizations ought to do the same thing TV shows showing the work of restoration shops or major private collectors.

I just verified. This car won in 1963, so it must be the one confirmed by Steve Moskowitz. I'd love to know the name of the exhibitor, but I suppose this is proprietary information.

I recently purchased a 1911 Maxwell runabout AB. On the radiator is a plaque stating that the car won AACA "First Prize" in, I believe, 1964 (although the last digit is badly blurred). The car serial number is 12240. Is there any way I can identify the owner's name back then and perhaps some details of the judging process and so forth? There is no mention of "Junior" and "Senior," as we now have in the awards spectrum. Thanks for your help. John

You are planning to hot rod this car????? You may be on the wrong forum.

Hey Andy. I have been wondering about thatphaeton body. I suggest you start with the Club Roster, maybe going back several years, and compile a database of your own. My son did this for 23 cars and it worked well: write to each listed owner and ask for names of others. You may be amazed at how many people know other people, and so forth. Publish enquiries on this forum and on the DBC facebook page. Bingo.....in a short while you will have your roster. Oh, and don't forget to contact the Club's DA advisor.

Regarding the fender welting, on the Victory, one year earlier than the DA, the welting when clear down to the running board and then all along the back of the running board, stopping just at the rear fender where a second piece took over. That front piece is quite long. Many restorers stop at the running board and then start up a new piece behind the running board. I can't say for sure but because of the similarity between the Victory and the DA, it is likely that your car followed this pattern.

YES, Dick Perry was one of a kind and is missed by us all. He invariably carried around a lawyer's sized briefcase stuffed with scraps of paper, notes, literature, tech sheets, and maybe even a sandwich. Anytime, anywhere, if you asked him a question about the DBs he'd open up that briefcase, search around a couple of seconds, pull out a scrap of paper and give you your answer in a good 20 minute lecture. A walking encyclopedia of knowledge. I only hope that someone has possession of all his hand-written notes and other such information and is preserving it. Perhaps someday they could share it with the Dodge Brothers people who are still trying to preserve all this history. John Bittence

Yes, they are engraved with "Tilt-Ray"

Incidentally, the Victory Six headlights had two bulbs each whether or not the car had cowl lights. The correct headlights would be drum style with a raised feature stamped on top more or less in the shape of a "Vee." with a rib extending down the back side of the drum. It looks as if you are working of the sport headlight setup.

I seem to recall that the factory began using the standard transmission shift on trucks while continuing to use the DB pattern on cars. Personally I would not give up on the authenticity of your truck as yet until you can research it more fully. You may want to purchase the Club's reprints.of articles on "trucks" as well as on the late four-cylinder cars to help in your investigation.

I had this problem at the 100th centennial in Detroit this summer. Alan Sharpe filed the point contacts with a lady's nail file (nothing else at hand) and the car started right up. Some coating formed on the contacts. I also had a similar problem earlier this summer with another car-- I had a weak spark at the plugs and across the points but the car would not start. The wire from the coil to the distributor somehow failed and when replaced the car started right up. I also recommend checking the wire from ignition switch to coil. I also recommend you connect your ground from a bolt mounting the starter directly to the battery ground terminal. You have no idea how much crud, paint, grease lie between all the junctions between transmission, engine mount, starter. In fact I run the ground between positive battery terminal directly to a starter mounting bolt on all my cars to ensure a positive (pardon the pun) connection.

Try Glenn Smith, Vintage and Classic Reproductions dot com.

Back issues of Dodge Brothers Club News have some tips and references to sources for re-enameling radiator badges. The Club Store sells a CD-ROM of back issues.

Unfortunately you will find very few (if any) Ford parts that will work on your Dodge Brothers. I suggest you get Tom Myers's catalog and buy there. There have been a few modern interchanges guys have discovered over the years and these may be mentioned in back issues of the Dodge Brothers Club News. You can by a CD-ROM of back issues very reasonably. Ford hose clamps, top prop nuts, spark plug wire, may interchange but not much else. Definitely not distributor or carburetor parts.

I see no need to switch to 12 volt. Your car operated quite effectively for 70 or 75 years at 6 volts so something else must be wrong. Throwing 12 volts at it won't fix the problem, just cover it up for it to arise again later.